Support simply responded with their policy that they will charge tariffs while in no way addressing that they are charging 24% on an item that should be 12.5% (film scanner made in Japan) and 16.7% on an item that should be 0 (books). Is there any way to talk to someone there who will actually correct this?
I know it's an insanely long shot, but this was the first nice pen I ever had (my dad took me down to the store and bought it for me when I started high school) and long story short it got sold in an estate sale when I wasn't around. If anybody has a rOtring tri pen (I never understood if it was a newton or a 600, but it was lava) with 3 initials R_S (I'm leaving the middle blank so someone can't just duplicate it and tell me it's the one) I would love a chance to buy it from you.
I've seen some Seiko bezels pop off, some have to be disassembled first because they're held from the inside. Does anybody know how the bezel of SPB513J1 is held on?
This is one where my loss is your gain, because I can't get over a flaw that I've never seen impact a photo.
To provide the full story:
I bought this lens from Japan. It was advertised as mint. In fact, the body is quite good, but someone had taken it apart and done a horrible job cleaning it. So bad that it impacted photos. They also had set the infinity stop WAY off. I fixed the infinity setting (by eye, but it seems accurate to me) and I took it apart and cleaned it all up. I don't have a clean room, so there is some dust inside, but it is actually really good now, BUT when I was cleaning it I found there is a spot one of the rear elements where the coating had come off. I couldn't get it to show in photos. I would say it's a little bit bigger than the eraser on a number 2 pencil.
I have never seen an impact in my photos from that missing coating, but I can't say you won't. After I cleaned it up, I compared it to a truly mint condition Zeiss Classic 50mm f/1.4 zf.2 I had, and this lens was just as good. If you do like most people do and just hold the lens up to a lamp you will say it is optically perfect or near perfect, but if you use an inspection lamp you will see there is some dust (but not enough to matter) and at the right angle you will find this missing coating spot.
The other thing that needs to be noted, you will see some marks on the aperture blade. That is not oil. A bit of cleaning fluid got on the blade while I was cleaning the lenses, and I didn't want to risk damaging the blades by rubbing them, so I let it air dry, and that's the reside it left. The blades move properly and are snappy.
Includes the front and rear cap. Obviously does not include the Fujifilm cap I used to prop it up for the photos.
$225 shipped in the continental US (I'll ship anywhere, but extra charge to go outside the continental US)
Pictures including proof pic. https://imgur.com/a/bi5vbOR
Was having issues with digital ICE on my Coolscan and eventually realized the lab underfixed the film. I already know there's no point in taking it back to that lab (new lab opening can't come soon enough, this guy always messes up something, but usually it's just scratches). I don't know the first thing about developing, but is there something I can do at home to refix this and get the silver out at this point?
Scanning UltraMax 400 in a Coolscan V. When I turn on digital ICE, everything is smeared, exposure is darker, colors get muddied. I've tried cleaning the mirror (it was already clean), fully removing NikonScan and reinstalling, turning off Nikon Color Management. No matter what, it's the same. Anybody seen this before?
Can the shifter arm bearing (the cylinder at the back) of the manual transmission linkage be removed with everything in place?
I saw an ad on facebook for Aiko Tanaka Studio. I normally only see scams advertising on facebook, but they have an IG that doesn't seem super scammy (I feel like a scammer would give himself more followers/commenters). Can anybody tell, before I buy something and get scammed?
On an e46 you can replace the shifter bearing (number 3 in this picture) entirely from inside the cabin. Is the same true for the e39?
This is a very nearly perfect Contax S2, as you can see from the pictures (notice how unlike many examples for sale it even has the eyepiece cup and pc sync port cover). I've recently put a roll of film through it and it meters correctly and the shutter speeds are correct (also tested with a shutter speed tester), and it has no functional issues of any kind. However, this is an issue I can't seem to figure out how to photograph - if someone can help me with how to get a good picture of inside the viewfinder, I will update with a photo of that. The viewfinder focusing screen has a couple of minor rub marks, but the more important flaw I actually never saw in use - I only noticed it when doing a full close inspection to list it for sale: there's some kind of stain in the viewfinder. I looked at the prism by taking out the focusing screen, and don't believe it's an issue with the prism. It may be something on the inside side of the viewfinder glass. As I said, I don't notice it in actual use, but I also haven't figured out how to get a photo to make it actually show up.
In my opinion, this is a better camera than the FM2n, but the reason I am selling is when I want a mechanical camera I find a reach for the FM2n I shot for over 20 years, and I save my Contax time for something electronic. If I were starting from scratch, or only owned other Contax, this would be the one to get, as it is the only way to shoot Contax knowing your body will last as long as your lenses (the other Contaxes are sadly all slowly dying electronic deaths it seems). Oh, and that youtuber who complains about the spot meter couldn't be more wrong. The spot meter is fantastic and one of the main reasons to prefer this over the FM2n IMHO (along with the fact that it is basically just an FM2n made with more QC and refinement).
Pics (proof pic at bottom) https://imgur.com/a/1PJUdYi
$450 includes CONUS shipping. I will ship elsewhere at buyer expense.
I need an F5 that has a functioning mirror assembly. If the camera doesn't power on, just use the mirror lock up switch to move the mirror up and down and be sure it moves like it should.
I bought a Nikon F5 (sadly not locally). It worked for a few frames, but now the meter stays up. It doesn't stay up tight against the foam, but almost all the way up. I can gently push it with my finger and then it will fall down, though it still isn't right (the viewfinder will be dim and only a slice in the middle will be in focus. No error message on the LED. Does anybody have any ideas?
I know the cost to repair is more than the cost of the knife, but there is a sentimental component. It seems like to large a piece broken to just grind it back to shape. Is there any repair option?
Why way around horrible Lenovo customer service (USA)
Is there any way to get beyond a first level phone rep? Laptop came with the incorrect charger and lenovo refuses to send or swap a correct one, instead saying I would have to return the entire machine.
I noticed I have a folder that is 64gb in the path c:/...Capture One Catalog/Capture One. They each contain a subfolder named Adjustments as well as a file named Capture One. They take up 64gb and go back to 2021. Can I delete all but the most recent few and be safe? I assume the date means these are backups?
Does anybody know the part numbers for the A4 sized augmented paper? I've never managed to find one.
Computer died, trying to get another up and running. Does anybody have the i1Studio Display 1.5.1 install file? Looks like sometime in the past year Xrite took it down.
I've been burned twice now by how bad Asus quality is on Rog G14s. How are people finding the 2025 Omen Transcend 14 does in terms of durability, bugginess, and design longevity?
I'm looking for a replacement for my now dead 2022 Rog G14. 14", similarly small footprint but if it's bigger not a deal breaker, either having or at least being upgrade-able to 32gb, and not being any worse performance than my 2022 (Ryzen 9 6900HS and RX 6800S), and a screen with 100% sRGB coverage. Would be a big plus if the screen is not glossy.
My 2022 is dead, as it's the 2021 before it. If I get a 2024 will it be good or are they the same poor quality weak designs with unaddressed bugs of the earlier years?
