There have been a few times that i've gone to print something in white after a different color was used. The initial filament load purge doesnt clear the color all the way and my first layer is tinted. Does the purge volume numbers affect this initial load or is it hard coded and not changable?
It's a robot cat headphone hanger. Printed it for my son, who thinks cats are the best thing that exist on this earth. Took around 18ish hours if I rememeber correctly. Bambu green silk, polymaker silver silk, polymaker starlight nebula purple and bambu matte black in the accents. Printed beautifully!
I have dosing questions for a vacation coming up. I had an existing chat going for med questions but it's now gone and I can't find anywhere to start a new one, am I going crazy?
Hi folks - i have a kingdom 8 tent. I found a person selling a kingdom 6 tent and a garage. the garage is labeled only as "Kingdom Garage"
as far as my limited understanding is the kingdom 8 and 6 are the same just the 8 is longer. do you folks think this garage would fit my tent? I've seen pictures of another garage thats specifically labeled "kingdom 6 garage" which this one is not. any thoughts?
Things aren't always this obvious, and usually generic settings work fine but today I ended up with a really great side by side of the same print trying to be lazy about it and again after taking the time to set up my filament correctly.
This is on my bambu a1
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I have 90 and 95a sunlu tpu, both have been dried in a drier for 8-10 hours. 3 different spools, all doing the same thing. I've been trying to print a tpu Frisbee. It's a total of about 8 hours to print. The print will be fine for a while then just stop and print air. No errors or failures, just stops feeding. It's not slicing or layer specific as I've tried 2 different models and one of them twice with the failure happening at different points.
Filament was run through all the calibration runs, and I did a temp tower.
Temp 220, speed 50mm/s (in the slicer but I'm pretty sure volumetric pulls this down further) , no fan for first layer, 100 the rest of the time. Retraction 0.4mm. Volumetric speed is 3.2 mm3/s.
This has happened on my 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles. The filament is on the normal external spool holder going straight down into a port on the tool head with only about 2" of ptfe tubing just to guide it in, not through the original feed tube.
I have to assume it's some kind of heat creep situation? I have successfully printed all 3 of these filaments in the last so I know the printer can do them but never tried something this big. Just looking for any tips I can try! Thank you
I have 90 and 95a sunlu tpu, both have been dried in a drier for 8-10 hours. 3 different spools, all doing the same thing. I've been trying to print a tpu Frisbee. It's a total of about 8 hours to print. The print will be fine for a while then just stop and print air. No errors or failures, just stops feeding. It's not slicing or layer specific as I've tried 2 different models and one of them twice with the failure happening at different points.
Filament was run through all the calibration runs, and I did a temp tower.
Temp 220, speed 50mm/s (in the slicer but I'm pretty sure volumetric pulls this down further) , no fan for first layer, 100 the rest of the time. Retraction 0.4mm. Volumetric speed is 3.2 mm3/s
This has happened on my 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles. The filament is on the normal external spool holder going straight down into a port on the tool head with only about 2" of ptfe tubing just to guide it in, not through the original feed tube.
I have to assume it's some kind of heat creep situation? I have successfully printed all 3 of these filaments in the past so I know the printer can do them but never tried something this big. Just looking for any tips I can try! Thank you.
I picked up a panda breath, and am running a sterelite lid for now. My thought was to cut out an opening in the top of the bin, print an adapter to connect to say 4" dryer duct and run that to the closest window. I probably will design in a fan to the window outlet side to create some negative pressure to pull stuff out but worry about pulling too much cold air into the chamber. Just wondered if anyone else has similar type setups, and whether you run a fan controller or not to keep venting going without too much cold air fighting the heater, or if I'm looking at this the wrong way.
A Matt Mire Makes robo rattler and the classic majoras mask. The snake was around 24 hours of print time, the mask was closer to 60 or so. I absolutely love this printer!
I recently updated to the extended firmware and the live view camera is a game changer. I've had a wyze cam on the printer previously so I could monitor things from work. I feel I'm fairly tech smart but network stuff is an area I know fuck all about. I would love to find a way to be able to access this feed easily while I'm out and about. Is it as simple as a VPN back into my home network?
Found this system on makerworld (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2508152-snapmaker-u1-modular-stand-drawers-plate-holder#profileId-2757951) (not my model) and decided it's exaxrly what I need. It's a nice frame system that handles build plates and then runs the gridfinity rugged drawer system. The 2nd Pic is my attempt at some inserts for the single tall drawers to hold nozzles once they all show up. It turned out bad due to my rushing but the final not rushed version is printing now. This U1 has been an blast to play with!