Has anyone settled the argument about the Gold Center Wheels on the 992/992B yet by using XRF? it's a non destructive technique that can see through to any base metal core, so it can rule out plating.
And it would be easy to test multiple without having to sacrifice a load of wheels, we'll be able to see if certain serial number or date ranges were actually solid 14k or plated 24k, or if they were all one or another
I have a UV-K5 v1 that i mainly use for scanning these days, i have all the PMR, buisness and so on frequencies programmed into it's banks, i mainly hook it up to a voice recorder so that i can listen back to it later.
It's ran EGZumer v0.22 for years now, i'm curious if there's a better firmware for scanning out there? maybe faster scan, or filtering out digital signals or a better squelch?
Does anyone have any information for repairing Logitech Marble Mouse trackballs? my dad relied on this model for 20+ years and finds his current kensington not accurate enough for the kind of work he does, the marble mice typically lasted a couple of years before they wore out but Logitech have since discontinued this model.
The newest one he has just doesn't do anything when you plug it in, it doesn't get detected or register clicks at all, but when i first found it, it worked fine on my computer but when i gave it to my dad it didn't work on his laptop and nor does it work on my computer now, so i'm planning on opening it up and checking connections etc, this model is still a cult model and is sold for crazy prices even used, as it seems they're the favoured mouse of mariners for chartplotters and some other niche stuff like factories too.
Does anyone have any information for repairing Logitech Marble Mouse trackballs? my dad relied on this model for 20+ years and finds his current kensington not accurate enough for the kind of work he does, the marble mice typically lasted a couple of years before they wore out but Logitech have since discontinued this model.
The newest one he has just doesn't do anything when you plug it in, it doesn't get detected or register clicks at all, but when i first found it, it worked fine on my computer but when i gave it to my dad it didn't work on his laptop and nor does it work on my computer now, so i'm planning on opening it up and checking connections etc, this model is still a cult model and is sold for crazy prices even used, as it seems they're the favoured mouse of mariners for chartplotters and some other niche stuff like factories too.
Been shooting with it for just over a week and have amassed 400+ photos, each photo is small and is 1920x1080, 16:9, camera itself is probably similar in size to the charmera but thinner, there is a lens bump, S158 seems to a misprint as the actual designation for this camera is S168.
Viewfinder and flash mainly for show, they don't do much, the screen is pretty clear and better then my other keychain cameras (Y3K and S150) but still not as good as the chuzhao, same controls as most of these cameras, but sometimes you accidentally take a photo when trying to turn it off.
My copy has the camera module at an angle, which doesn't cause a problem handheld unless propped up on a surface, it's easy to correct in post, but you won't get good QC on a £20 camera.
It has filters, red, green, blue and monochrome although i haven't bothered with those
Does not come with an SD card, you'll need to supply one yourself, it's a Micro SD the same as all these cameras, charging via Type-C but needs a USB-A to USB-C cable to charge.
Most of my photos have been edited in some way, cropped, white balance corrected or had film sim presets applied.
Rebel 4x4, both bobcat variants, bison, bodhi, sadler, walton l35 stock, yosemite 1500
The last two live together as a family in my paleto house garage
I recently took the upgrade to One UI 8.5 on my S23U and here’s what I’ve noticed with the built-in camera app
1: Director Mode and Single Take are no longer options, these wouldn’t be the first camera features that samsung has removed, Sound Photo and 3D Turntable come to mind, however they’re not gone but just disabled in the app, you can re-enable both in the Camera Assistant app available from the samsung app store, now my “More” menu is full again! It’s a great app I highly recommend it for photogs and general power users who want the most of the default camera app
2: They’ve added more filters into the camera app, normally I don’t bother with filters but these are interested in that they’re film simulations or at least film inspired, since they’re not simulating a name brand film stock, out of all of them I think Pop Film is inspired by kodachrome but my favorite has to be Vivid Film, it seems to be inspired by Fuji Velvia, one of the most saturated filmstocks on the market, I’ve been looking for a velvia preset for a while and this doesn’t do a bad job of it, I applied to a photo taken in 50mp mode and it even fooled AI, I should probably compare to Alex Ruskmans Velvia 50 lightroom preset and to an older Canon DSLR, when I shoot in colour I like vibrant colours and this scratches that itch very well and isn’t too oversaturated imo.
Just things I thought I’d point out that some people probably haven’t noticed yet.
I've had my P900 for just over a year, bought it used, it's worked fine and still works fine but started a few weeks ago it's started doing this annoying thing after being charged.
Sometime between being put on the charger and being put in my bag the lens extends but the camera doesn't boot up, i normally discover this the next morning, i go to test the camera and the green power light comes on but either the LCD or EVF just shows black or purple, none of the buttons do anything and you can't turn it off again by the power button
Instead you have to pull the battery and put it back in, then turn it on, it will retract the lens, extend it and boot up normally, i'm guessing it gets soft locked based on the lens position, because it initially tries to boot up but gets interrupted?
It's the original nikon branded charger and hasn't done it before.
P900 going senile?