▲ 80 r/bouldering+1 crossposts

Older climbers (40+) who are new to this, do you feel limited on progress?

Hello all, I'm in my 40s. I'm a male, in average shape (possibly on the weaker side). I started bouldering 3 months ago and I've gone an average of 3-4 times per month. So in total I have about 10 ish sessions under my belt. I feel like I'm stuck at V2s. On the very first day I was able to do V0s and V1s easily, and by the second session V2s were doable as well. Since then I've been sort of stuck there. I can do the V3s, but I have to project one at a time and take a couple of days on it. Video above of 4 of the climbs I did (all v1-v2s, maybe one v3). Feedback/criticism welcome.

EDIT: full video of all 4 climbs here, reddit cut it off at a min Climbing

My recovery at this age is much slower than it was in my 20s and 30s. I’m trying to give myself good gaps so i recover my fingers at least 80% or so before going again.

I know most here will say "just climb more", but I feel like I'm not seeing any progress. I've watched tons of videos, so I know the using your legs and core, hips close to wall, toe placement, keep arms straight etc. I'm putting those into practice as best as I can. I'm just worried I'll be stuck here, and my goal was to be able to do v6s consistently. But I'm realizing maybe I started too late to be able to get to that goal? Did anyone else START in their 40s+ and is at the being able to flash v6 level? Or am I dreaming too big? Right now I can’t even do the first move on a v5.

u/photorph — 7 days ago

Texas divorce laws seem unfair??

Hello all, this post is not for me. This is for a family member.

Background: They were married for 8 years or so, wife had a spending problem and because of that they'd get into arguments. Recently they had a child, who is 1 years of age now. Wife decided to divorce him. Dad tried to do counseling etc to make it work but she was done and lost feelings and wants out.

Wife earns about 110k, dad earns about 80k. Dad wants to do 50/50 custody, but due to age of 1 the courts won't allow it. Dad wants to do step up 50/50 custody, the lawyer has advised that the judge that is assigned in Texas favors traditional roles and does not grant 50/50 custody often even if it is a step up. AND even if he does assign it eventually, he won't get rid of child support.

This makes ZERO sense to me, why does the dad (making less) have to pay child support to the mom (making more) when it is 50/50 shared custody? The whole thing seems extremely unfair and biased. The dad will be in financial ruin while the mom will be taking 20% for 18 years and just using the money to buy bags and take vacations? The dad is also the one saving for her college on his lower salary and is planning to cover 50% of the child's expenses if not more when they have 50/50 custody. Mom does not care about dad, just wants to ensure she gets 20% of his check.

So the main thing is...per the lawyer judge does not grant 50/50, judge is assigned by state and cannot be changed. Nothing can be done to ensure 50/50 custody eventually when the child is 3 or so AND get rid of child support...is anything possible or is his life ruined cuz of this which isn't even his fault at all??

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u/photorph — 12 days ago

Help with Texas divorce laws - why so unfair

Hello all, this post is not for me. This is for a family member (my brother). I’m reposting this with more details.

Background: They were married for 8 years or so, wife had a spending problem and because of that they'd get into arguments. Recently they had a child, who is 1 years of age now. Wife decided to divorce him. Dad tried to do counseling etc to make it work but she was done and lost feelings and wants out.

Wife earns about 110k, dad earns about 80k. Dad wants to do 50/50 custody, but due to age of 1 the courts won't allow it. Dad wants to do step up 50/50 custody, the lawyer has advised that the judge that is assigned in Texas favors traditional roles and does not grant 50/50 custody even if it is a step up plan to do it over few years. AND even if he does grant 50/50 it eventually, he won't get rid of child support to the mom (even if she earns more).

This makes ZERO sense to me, why does the dad (making less) have to pay child support to the mom (making more) when it is 50/50 shared custody? The whole thing seems extremely unfair and biased. The dad will be in financial ruin while the mom will be taking 20% for 18 years and just using the money to buy bags and take vacations? The dad is also the one saving for her college on his lower salary and is planning to cover 50% of the child's expenses if not more when they have 50/50 custody.

So the main thing is...per the lawyer judge does not grant 50/50, judge is assigned by state and cannot be changed. Nothing can be done to ensure 50/50 custody eventually when the child is 3 or so AND get rid of child support...is anything possible or is his life ruined cuz of this which isn't even his fault at all? How can a judge do this?

reddit.com
u/photorph — 12 days ago

Texas divorce laws seem unfair??

Hello all, this post is not for me. This is for a family member.

Background: They were married for 8 years or so, wife had a spending problem and because of that they'd get into arguments. Recently they had a child, who is 1 years of age now. Wife decided to divorce him. Dad tried to do counseling etc to make it work but she was done and lost feelings and wants out.

Wife earns about 110k, dad earns about 80k. Dad wants to do 50/50 custody, but due to age of 1 the courts won't allow it. Dad wants to do step up 50/50 custody, the lawyer has advised that the judge that is assigned in Texas favors traditional roles and does not grant 50/50 custody often even if it is a step up. AND even if he does assign it eventually, he won't get rid of child support.

This makes ZERO sense to me, why does the dad (making less) have to pay child support to the mom (making more) when it is 50/50 shared custody? The whole thing seems extremely unfair and biased. The dad will be in financial ruin while the mom will be taking 20% for 18 years and just using the money to buy bags and take vacations? The dad is also the one saving for her college on his lower salary and is planning to cover 50% of the child's expenses if not more when they have 50/50 custody. Mom does not care about dad, just wants to ensure she gets 20% of his check.

So the main thing is...per the lawyer judge does not grant 50/50, judge is assigned by state and cannot be changed. Nothing can be done to ensure 50/50 custody eventually when the child is 3 or so AND get rid of child support...is anything possible or is his life ruined cuz of this which isn't even his fault at all??

reddit.com
u/photorph — 12 days ago

Need urgent help with unfair Texas divorce laws

Hello all, this post is not for me. This is for a family member.

Background: They were married for 8 years or so, wife had a spending problem and because of that they'd get into arguments. Recently they had a child, who is 1 years of age now. Wife decided to divorce him. Dad tried to do counseling etc to make it work but she was done and lost feelings and wants out.

Wife earns about 110k, dad earns about 80k. Dad wants to do 50/50 custody, but due to age of 1 the courts won't allow it. Dad wants to do step up 50/50 custody, the lawyer has advised that the judge that is assigned in Texas favors traditional roles and does not grant 50/50 custody often even if it is a step up. AND even if he does assign it eventually, he won't get rid of child support.

This makes ZERO sense to me, why does the dad (making less) have to pay child support to the mom (making more) when it is 50/50 shared custody? The whole thing seems extremely unfair and biased. The dad will be in financial ruin while the mom will be taking 20% for 18 years and just using the money to buy bags and take vacations? The dad is also the one saving for her college on his lower salary and is planning to cover 50% of the child's expenses if not more when they have 50/50 custody. Mom does not care about dad, just wants to ensure she gets 20% of his check.

So the main question is...per the lawyer judge does not grant 50/50, judge is assigned by state and cannot be changed. What can be done to ensure 50/50 custody eventually when the child is 3 or so AND get rid of child support...is anything possible or is his life ruined cuz of this which isn't even his fault at all.

reddit.com
u/photorph — 13 days ago

Texas child support question for dads - how is this fair?

Why is child support in Texas so unfair? Take this situation. My brother’s wife earns $120,000 and he earns $77,000. She wants to divorce him, he did everything he can to make it work and still wants to stay together…specially for their daughter’s sake. But she lost feelings for him apparently.

He has their daughter half the days on weekends and in the evening 3 days a week. When she is with him he pays for everything for her. He still has to give 20% of his salary to his ex wife who doesn’t even have to prove how she is spending the money? The costs for childcare are below what he is paying her especially when daycare will end. How is that fair?

Also his wife spends the money on herself, vacations, purses, etc. One of the main reasons for arguments they had was cuz of her money management. Father wants to focus on saving money for child’s future.

So now she is divorcing him, making more than him, and getting money from him which will financially ruin him. And his lawyer has said 20% is standard law.

Please help if you can, I’m trying to help my brother not ruin his life cuz of what his wife is doing to him. He is fully willing to spend anything he can for his daughter’s expenses, but he does not want to support his wife’s expensive tastes while ruining his own financial self.

He wants to get 50/50 custody and do overnights, however due to the age of just turning 1 he has been advised courts will always side with mom on primary custody. The plan is to gradually introduce overnights as courts allow.

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u/photorph — 24 days ago

Hello all, what do you think of the doormount pro hangboard by frictitious climbing?

DoorMount Pro – Frictitious Climbing

Talking about this above. Background, I started climbing 2 months ago, I go once a week. I am still a beginner and doing V1-V4s. Mostly I can do all the V1s and V2s, and most V3s. The V4s it really depends on the route.

I know they say don't focus on hangboards as a beginner, but my fingers are a weak point. After doing any route with crimps my fingers/joints hurt for a week or more. I am also in my 40s so that may have something to do with recovery.

I don't want to mount things , do you think this is a good hangboard for me to use now or eventually? It's rarely in stock, so I just ordered it while it was in stock today.

u/photorph — 1 month ago

In the DJI ecosystem & want to get the pocket 4P, but I'm in the US...skip for Luna or is there a way?

I really want to get the pocket 4p as I'm in the DJI eco system already. I have the DJI mic and action 6. The only issue is DJI is not selling the 4p here.

Do I just get the luna ulta from insta 360, or is there a way to get the 4p here?

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u/photorph — 2 months ago

Is my feet is not meant for climbing shoes (long 2nd and 3rd toe)

Sorry for the not so pleasant photo. All those bruises are from 1 session of climbing in these. New climber, went a total of 3 times. I bought veloces and posted about them and clearly these were the wrong shoe for me.

Many people told me to try out different shoes in the climbing gym. I tried basically every single shoe that they had, but each time the issue was that I was getting pressure points on my third toe which was curled up. It seems like my third toe is proportionately too big compared to the rest of my feet. So even when my big toe is flat and just touching the front, my 2nd and 3rd toe are curled and especially my 3rd toe has a sharp pressure point on the top. Almost making me want to climb in my asics running shoes if the gym allows. Never had these issues with any other shoes!

NOTE: I’m trying shoes in my street size or even bigger, and still same issue. I tried evolv Kronos and defy in my street shoe size and bigger, also tried la sportiva models like tarantula. Even if I make them bigger than my street size, the 3rd toe has that pressure point on top cuz it is pretty curled.

Any miracle tips?

u/photorph — 2 months ago

New to this, 2nd time bouldering and got these Veloces. Discomfort is the norm?

I am a middle aged guy, tried bouldering and it was fun. I only do V1 and V2 for now. For my 2nd time I wanted to get a good pair of shoes rather than using rental ones. Did a lot of research and used help from chat gpt and other AI. Consistently I was finding that scarpa veloce are comfortable and go well for those with skinny feet and a wide toe box (me).

Also looked up plenty of info in sizing from scarpa and Reddit. Everyone said to either size down or use the same size as my street shoes. I wear 10 and I got 10.

These are uncomfortable to the point where I can’t walk in them. I put them on for bouldering and just take them off as soon as I get down. My toes have a curl which is normal I suppose. But I see others at the bouldering gym just keeping shoes on the whole time. These are too uncomfortable for that to happen. Do I need to just get used to this discomfort or am I doing something wrong? Glad I didn’t size down!

u/photorph — 2 months ago

Got the mini Miyoo plus, overwhelmed and need some guidance

Hi all, I purchased the miyoo mini plus from amazon. I got this for 2 reasons:

  1. To be able to play retro games that I grew up on
  2. So my 7 year old can play games on it

The issues:
-there's far too many games

-lot of them don't work well

What I'd like:

I want to upgrade the software, I think I can figure out the upgrading to Onion OS part, there's video guides I can follow. But how do I get a clean set up? By clean set up meaning I don't want a million games, I just want specific systems and specific games. Like I'd rather have 50 games or so that are really good and that i'll actually play. My questions are:

  1. how do I get a clean set up? How can I make it so I have the most popular consoles running (PS1, NES, SNES, etc) with a curated list of like top 10 games for each?
  2. where do I find those games/roms?
  3. Can I just pay someone to set it up the way I want? (short on time these days). I'm located in SE Michigan.
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u/photorph — 3 months ago

Hi all, I’m new to this. I just got the mk ii deluxe cabinet. I’m finding it to be very limited. You can’t even pause the game or adjust timers etc. There is no memory in any of the games, so you start from the beginning each time you power on. My son also likes gauntlet, he’s 5, and each time he starts from level 1.

Is there anything I’m missing here? I spent $500 on this at Best Buy. Do I need to mod this? And if so how hard is it? I’ve never modded anything so I’d be afraid of messing up the electronics.

What would the total cost be to mod and add more games even? I’m located in SE Michigan and if there was a company that did it for me that would be great.

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u/photorph — 4 months ago