I have a camera with a dead Display. I remember the old Windows Movie Maker back in the day allowed seek controls (FF,RW,Stop,Play). WinDV doesn't have those controls for some reason. Anyone know of a way to do this on WIndows 11?
UPDATE - this program lets you do exactly that:
What I'm trying to do: Digitizing old family home movies — a couple dozen MiniDV-via-fierwire.avi/.mov files spanning the 2000s, currently sitting on a NAS — into properly archived .mp4s with the original recording date/time correctly preserved in both the file's metadata and its filesystem timestamps (a lot of camcorder software/export tools lose or scramble this), then synced up to iCloud Photos so the whole family can actually browse and enjoy them instead of them rotting in a folder. Wrote a small Python/ffmpeg batch tool to handle the conversion, metadata extraction/preservation, renaming-by-date, and the iCloud-prep work in one pass — the codec/thumbnail investigation below came out of getting that last "actually shows up properly in Photos" part working. The video plays fine - the thumbnails never appear, (just shows a grey exclamation mark). A workaround is editing the clip on the Apple device itself and saving it - only then is their a thumbnail.
HEVC software (libx265, fails):ffmpeg -y -i input.avi -map_metadata 0 -metadata creation_time=2008-01-06T01:42:35Z \
-map 0:v:0 -map 0:a:0 \
-c:v libx265 -tag:v hvc1 \
-x265-params colorprim=bt709:transfer=bt709:colormatrix=bt709:repeat-headers=1 \
-color_primaries bt709 -color_trc bt709 -colorspace bt709 \
-crf 22 -preset slow \
-vf scale=in_range=full:out_range=limited \
-pix_fmt yuv420p -fps_mode cfr -r 30000/1001 \
-c:a aac -b:a 192k -ar 48000 -ac 2 \
-movflags +faststart output.mp4
HEVC hardware (AMD AMF, fails):
ffmpeg -y -i input.avi -map_metadata 0 -metadata creation_time=2008-01-06T01:42:35Z \
-map 0:v:0 -map 0:a:0 \
-c:v hevc_amf -tag:v hvc1 \
-usage transcoding -quality quality -rc qvbr -qvbr_quality_level 22 \
-pix_fmt yuv420p -fps_mode cfr -r 30000/1001 \
-c:a aac -b:a 192k -ar 48000 -ac 2 \
-movflags +faststart output.mp4
HEVC native (Apple VideoToolbox, fails — tested via software fallback on old hardware):
ffmpeg -y -i input.avi -map_metadata 0 -metadata creation_time=2008-01-06T01:42:35Z \
-map 0:v:0 -map 0:a:0 \
-c:v hevc_videotoolbox -tag:v hvc1 -allow_sw 1 -b:v 6000k -realtime 0 \
-pix_fmt yuv420p -fps_mode cfr -r 30000/1001 \
-c:a aac -b:a 192k -ar 48000 -ac 2 \
-movflags +faststart output.mp4
H.264 (works):
ffmpeg -y -i input.avi -map_metadata 0 -metadata creation_time=2008-01-06T01:42:35Z \
-map 0:v:0 -map 0:a:0 \
-c:v libx264 -crf 22 -preset slow \
-pix_fmt yuv420p -fps_mode cfr -r 30000/1001 \
-c:a aac -b:a 192k -ar 48000 -ac 2 \
-movflags +faststart output.mp4
Fixes applied along the way
- Explicit stream mapping (drop extra data/timecode tracks some old AVIs carry)
- Forced `yuv420p` pixel format
- Forced constant frame rate, snapped to the nearest standard broadcast rate (old camcorder AVIs are often messy VFR, e.g. computing to something like `29.96` instead of real NTSC `29.97`)
- Standardized audio to 48kHz/stereo AAC (old camcorders sometimes use oddball sample rates)
- Fixed the codec tag from ffmpeg's default `hev1` to the Apple-required `hvc1`
- `-movflags +faststart` (verified via manual MP4 box-parsing that `moov` actually ends up before `mdat`)
- Added explicit HEVC VUI color signaling (`colorprim`/`transfer`/`colormatrix=bt709`) + `repeat-headers=1`
- **Found and fixed a real bug**: old MJPEG-coded AVI sources decode as full-range (`yuvj420p`/`color_range=pc`), and re-encoding that straight through produces an unusually-tagged full-range HEVC stream. Added a conditional filter to rescale to standard limited range, matching what real iPhone footage looks like.
Welp, if anyone has a suggestion it would be appreciated!
Hello fellow U1 users. I have about 240 total hours. The machine started making this strange vibration sound. Here is a link to the video:
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Original minidv tapes were recorded on a Sony DCR-TRV22. Sourced a Canon ZR900 to do FireWire transfers. Some tapes the audio is great - others it cuts in and out with “12bit” flashing on the screen. Other tapes there is zero audio. I don’t really want to pay $50 for a minidv cleaning tape if I can help it. I attempted to clean the head via YouTube tutorial but not successful.
Has anyone experienced this? I’m thinking I might need to source the exactly model Sony for successful transfers.
Do higher end minidv decks allow “tracking” adjustments - if that is even a thing. I’m thinking old school analog VHS decks.
I finally decided it was time to clean out mine 2019 shield pro, and replace the thermal paste. Well, I did a bad thing and now I'm sad. If someone could post a close up photo of the connect pre-borked, with the cable detached, so that I can compare to mine that would be amazing. Trying to see if there are damaged traces marked in blue. Thank you!
edit:grammer
I might be doing something wrong, but if I save multiple calibrations for different build plates, when I power cycle the printer, the only mesh that shows up is "default".
edit: I should note i'm running paxx12 1.3.0-paxx12-16
Is there any harm in removing a print too early? Sometimes I’m in a rush and don’t wait for the plate to cool off.
Attempting to calibrate Sunlu Silk PLA+ filament on a Snapmaker U1. Want to see which you guys would pick, as there is only very minor variation.
Specs:
Snapmaker U1
OrcaSlicer 2.3.2 build c724a3f5
Built-in Temperature Model
Sunlu PLA+ Silk
Nozzle temp 205-235
Bed temp 55
Layer height 0.2
Initial Layer height 0.25
My bridge came off, and then the top of my molar broke off. I have an appointment on the 5th to get the molar extracted hopefully. But in the meantime I’ve started noticing this soft fibrous thing poking out. I don’t feel any pain when I mess with it. What if I try yanking it out with tweezers? I’m trying to ignore the intrusive thoughts.
I think over the last couple years the inside of the tooth has been decaying. When it first broke off, my tooth/socket looked like a rotten black hole. Over the last 2 weeks since, brushing and using a waterpik, it looks MUCH better. There really isn’t any pain until more recently I feel some sensitivity in the front edge facing my other teeth. I can poke and prod all over the rest of the socket and there is no sensation.
How will they be able to extract the tooth with nothing to grip?
