Can you carbonate in glass bottles?
Can you carbonate juices/sodas/favored water?
We don't have counter space for a branded counter top model.
I plan on keeping the tank under the kitchen sink and simply opening the sink base cabinet door, uncoil the hose, screw the carborator cap on then shake.
Planning on spinning a chicken tomorrow.
Chicken on the kettle with rotisserie ring setup.
I've never done potatoes and onions under the bird in this setup. I've done potatoes and onions under birds in a regular oven and never pre cook my potato cubes.
Unfortunately often in a normal oven, I pull the bird for resting then have to blast the vege under 500f or even the broiler to color the vege up and get some Maillard reaction.
I'm gonna follow a fellow redditors cook plan of 45min covered, 10 uncovered, 40min covered and 20 uncovered (obviously checking for doneness).
I think with that length of time near 500f coals I probably won't need to par boil potato cubes/slices, but I hate undercooked potatoes.
Any suggestions and input appreciated.
Over this past winter a sheet of ice slid off the roof and snapped off the antenna on the way home from work.
I ordered a replacement months ago and finally had a moment to grab a towel and a ladder and climb up there to try and get the old antenna base out and thread the new one in.
Of course, the entire threaded part of the base was missing, not just a snapped antenna.
Any idea what's involved? How hard is the headliner to remove? It's a high top that has the upper storage shelf above the driver.
I installed a sortimo partition a few years ago now and I know for certain the entire partition would need removal if the passenger and driver side b pillar covers need to come off as the hardware bolts through those plastic covers.
I'm tempted to ignore this issue and continue to stream my radio programming through my phone at this point as it seems like a real hassle if you need to get to the back of the interior/back of the antenna base.
Hello all.
Just starting out on this journey. Located in NJ.
Looking to eventual do a grid tied system that can also island and run fully off grid with some battery backup.
In the process of starting to rebuild a detached garage on our property. The final footprint is 24x40. It will have a 12:12 gable with the south facing slope nearly due south.
Initially I was set on using the latest enphase micro inverters on both the house and garage. I don't think I like being restricted to the battery and few other proprietary elements of that system.
I think however I'm leaving towards a hybrid inverter like sol-ark or eg4.
Main point of this post is roughly my conduit routing and required disconnecting means.
I need to submit electrical drawings to the construction office soon. I cannot afford to install solar immediately on this project.
I simply want the raceways in place underground between the house and garage ready for solar.
I am already installing a 100amp subpanel in the garage for normal use.
Initially I thought I'd be able to simply back feed that panel but to be fair, I haven't really been in the pv solar section of the NEC before.
Other sections I'm well versed in but not that section.
I'm sure this gets asked a lot so I apologize.
TLDR: I want to place panels on my rancher and my new detached garage in the future. I would like to place the battery backup and inverters in the detached garage. The detached garage is already receiving a 100-200amp subpanel fed unground. While I'm trenching and roughing that sub panel in, I would like to run any required conduits between the house and garage.
My home's main panel is a 200amp nema 3r panel installed outside on the side of my house and serves as my first point of disconnect.
Trying to piece together a low budget emulator build for my son. He's 7 and has hinted he'd like to try video games. My wife and I aren't interested in having him play games yet with chat and online play. Figure I'd build an emulator pc for nes to game cube. Strictly emulator use setup with batocera.
I already have a spare ryzen 3800x, b550m board, psu and an old gtx1650.
A neighbor overhead and gifted me 4x 8gb he had from work.
Model number MTA9ASF1G72AZ-2G3B1ZK
https://www.memory4less.com/micron-server-memory-mta9asf1g72az-2g3b1zk
I already understand 3200mhz-3600mhz is the recommended range for ryzen zen3 as that is what's in the workstation I built years ago.
I also am unsure if this ram can be run non-ecc and what impact single bank vs dual bank would make.
I have a lead on a used 2x16gb ddr 3200 cl16 kit but honestly I'm not sure it's worth the money if this ram will actually work at all. Obviously a performance hit of 5-15% @ 2400mhz is expected.
Just wondering. Would like to go wireless meat probes but want a wireless grate probe as well.
Doesn't make any sense they didn't design a wireless grate probe.
If I have to drag a wired probe to the grate I might as well drag one to the meat.
Already a smoke user here.
I've owned an 18" wsm since the early 00's.
I know the outer edge of the grate is hotter as the hot air is rising up around any water pan or diffuser one uses.
I've been considering trying to add a used kamado and found one locally. But If I'm restricted to food only being as large as the diffuser plate for indirect low and slow cooking, all of them on the market are significantly smaller regarding cooking surface than the dimensions let on.
Am I incorrect in my assumption?
Been holding on to my parents old kenmore grill from the 1980's for some reason. I don't even use gas grills.
It's a 2 burner model on a center post with 2 wheels on a small cart. I'm not home at the moment to grab a photo.
It has the solid aluminum firebox and lid (paint flaking and aluminum oxidation). The cart, post, aluminum cart handle, wheels, etc are all in good shape. My father swapped stainless hardware in years ago I believe for the wheels and handle attachment.
It would need a full rebuild including
I'd hate to curb it only for a scrapper to pickup. I'm more than capable of brining it to the scrap yard myself.
I also don't know if it's worth trying to sell on marketplace unless people are looking for them.
Not looking to profit or gouge anyone on this old project grill. It just seems like it's held up great outside all these years uncovered that it must be well built. The solid cast aluminum body seems like that would be desirable.
I doubt it holds a candle to modern grills in searing performance.
Kind of would like to find a home for it if there is some niche following for these things.
Ordered these to see if they would fit. They are too wide.
Still on the prowl for maximum evenness.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DGXH9YK4?ref_=ppx_hzod_image_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0
Question to those who have added/performed the aluminum L angle mod.
Do you think the front is necessary?
I just did the sides and rear. I split the rear to make a vent area at the grease trap like most do.
However. I feel like the heat is now being redirected at the front.
So would it be better to add a continuous angle at the front and open up the rear vent more to force the heat out the back?
The front of the griddle plate already basically has a "wind guard" below with the reinforcement.
I'm thinking I'm gonna do it and just widen the opening at the grease trap a bit more.
I think even having short rear sections at the rear corners is important. I'm not sure with the front fully guarded off that the back needs to be guarded outside of those corners for wind wrap.
Or I might take my rear guards and rip them down to 3/8"- 1/2" on the table saw to provide some wind protection but to allow heat to vent rear ward.
Looking for an aftermarket grease cup that I can safely grab bare handed after cooking and dump Immediately.
I assume I'd need one with a handle. But I can't image the ones with the little tack welded handle would remain cool enough to touch.
I just dump in a dedicated hole in the corner of the yard and I'd like to be able to immediately after post cooking cleaning than having to wait.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Good day.
I use the vertical trellis method with string rollers for my indeterminate tomatoes outside.
I've built trellises out of galvanized rigid pipe where the upper crossmember is 8'6" high.
Even so, I typically run out of height by August.
I can't really lower and lean as I don't have enough horizontal length to move the tops of the plants.
I tried just managing the bare vines in the aisle when lowering but I'm not satisfied with that.
I typically single leader. I'm now considering allowing a lower sucker in mid or late July to shoot out and remain near the base of the vine as they typically emerge there anyway and topping my main leader once I reach 8ft.
From there I'll just continue to trellis the second leader until frost.
Any possible issues with this? I would hate to do this to my crop in a month from now and realize I made a mistake.
Anyone have experience with either or both? I see a lot of the older reviews are for the silver with the selling point being the external grind adjustment vs the bottom/internal.
There seems to be a black version now that is the similar bottom adjustment to the "pepper cannon".
I care less about "convenience" of the adjustment. I care about durability, functionality and grind consistency.
I wonder if the bottom adjustment is just a closer knockoff to the brand names or does it offer any advantage?
Was in Home Depot for some pipe fittings the other day for something unrelated.
I own a 4 burner blackstone already.
They had Weber slate and a next grill? Griddles on display.
Curious I popped the tops of These two and both seemingly had the same straight burners with holes on both of the sides as my blackstone.
It was the three burner slate.
It was a four burner nextgrill?
Which got me thinking. I've seen some griddles now recommend by YouTube creators that claim are more even heating, etc.
Do all the griddles use these same straight burners? If so, outside of griddle plate thickness and burner density (how many burners per length of griddle plate), how would any of these perform better than another?
It would then seem like a 36" 5 burner would inherently cook more evenly than a 36" 3 burner.
Have a 3.6l with the start of the pentastar cam follower tap.
Would like to have the job completed on both heads including new lifters hopefully before any serious cam damage occurs.
Hoping someone on here can recommend a quality shop.
I would attempt the job myself but currently am without garage or driveway.
Any idea where to start troubleshooting?
My understanding is there is a cable near the accelerator pedal that is a service bulletin that could be the issue.
It could also be one or multiple sensors that are bad?
Or it's the module itself.
The TPMs light flashed for a minute or so when starting and driving so it's definitely not a low pressure situation and I checked my pressures and it's not the tire pressure
Location: USA
Was looking at property records recently and one property I was interested in had the most recent deed and mortgage documents listed on the county websearch but the pdf images of the documents simply were all a blank page that said "sealed".
Always thought these documents were of public record?
I'm sure there are a few instances where these could be sealed and I was curious if anyone could enlighten me.
Just venting. 1st world problem.
It's becoming more and more common. Out of all the cheap drop shipped import crap on Amazon, often the differentiator for me is delivery date.
I often shop locally. But for instance, I bought an inexpensive harbor freight concrete mixer off Facebook market place for some small projects. Cheaper than renting one for a day.
I had rain in the forecast for tomorrow. Yesterday I ordered a cheap grill cover to act as a tarp for the thing. It was supposed to be delivered today so I could tarp it before it rains tomorrow . I only selected that item because it had an overnight/next day delivery date.
They changed the delivery date to two days from now and it hasn't shipped yet. (Went from overnight to Four day shipping?)
I specifically added other items to the order the ensure next day delivery.
It's a fucking scam. And this isn't the first time.
When planned I order from reputable online suppliers or locally. But sometimes I'm in a bind and an overnight or next day delivery while I'm at work gets me out of it.
But their delivery dates are essentially useless now. There is no snow storm or tornado or flood or some other circumstance in which I wouldn't expect delivery times to be kept.
If anything it's a sponsored seller looking to save? Costs with slower shipping? I dunno how it works but it's getting old.
I needed my underground gas line moved a few years ago in preparation of a project. It's a corner lot.
The gas line originally came in from street b. Now it comes in street a.
Meter is in my backyard.
They ran the line across the property underground (on a side of the house with no other utilities and very far away from my sewer lateral).
They only had to hand dig roughly Two holes to slightly change the direction of the bore. They also hand dug at the meter location.
I am now preparing the ground for a concrete walkway in my backyard. There is a section somewhat over the gas line path that I can't hand tamp solid.
I'm not sure if it's just coincidence or what. It's not where they hand dug.
I could see if there was a sewer line or storm water pipe they hit that would be creating a void. But in this one 3x3 section I started hand tamping yesterday and I can just keep tamping and tamping and the area is continuing to compact down. I had set 2x4 forms with their tops roughly level with grade. I'm a good 3"-4" below the bottom of the form now.
The ground in the area just feels soft. I've done some other similar work elsewhere on the property and the ground always compacted well like A rock. I'm not sure if it's just a patch of clay, an old construction trash pit (house was built in the 1950's). I just found a glass wine bottle buried as I was tamping which prompted me to come inside and post this.
And no, there isn't a break in my foundation wall. I checked that possibility out already as I'm close to the house
Can't find any online discussion on here or forums about this brand?
See rhino, redi, titan and ushammer.
What's the deal skildril? Prices seem lower than the others.
This isn't for weekly use. Looking for something better than vevor and less than that $2000 price point.