u/sheafurby

I posted about what to do with it. -I’m making a foot stool. Rustic. Not wanting to do any epoxy.
I posted about the best way to plane as a relative newbie to planing and was told to sand instead of planing.
I started playing with the light colored edges as it looked wormy and it was. Used a chisel (and and wire brush) and got in this point.
I was thinking about drawing a pattern on one side and and using my bandsaw to cut off all of the bad, but I like the varying angles and I don’t trust myself to do that freehand on a bandsaw. How would you clean out soft wood on a piece to keep the character?

I have inherited an assortment of hand planes, mostly Stanley’s, 110’s to a number 7 and a few other odd ones . I want to plane this piece and make a foot stool out of it. I started playing around with a number 5 and realized that I don’t know enough about using them to know the best approach. How would an experienced person approach it by hand.

I’ve posted a couple of my inherited planes asking for thoughts. This one I would love thoughts, but I’m pretty sure it’s a keeper. Still would like to hear input.

I’m going through the tools I inherited from my dad. Some I doubt I’ll ever use and honestly would rather sell them and let them get used. The ones I think I’ll use are staying along with those ive already been using. This is one that I don’t think I’ll use so I’m trying to determine all I can about it. It looks to me like it was never used and I don’t think the other adjusting nut goes with it as the plane shows made in England but the other nut shows made in USA. I think the 2004 date on the box is probably correct based on findmytool.co.uk but otherwise don’t really know much about it except it is used by cabinet makers. Thoughts on it and its newish condition?

I was trying to use hyperkitten to identify my inherited no.5 but maybe I don’t get some of the terminology. Any help would be appreciated. Also, based on the appearance how would you rate the condition?

I have some cool tools that I realized I won’t use. My dad started buying stuff as he started suffering from dementia. I inherited them when he passed. He was buying stuff that he didn’t have equipment to use and neither do I. What is the best place to sell? I’m including a picture just to demonstrate what I mean. Please don’t make offers…

Had the piece of cool looking wood for awhile and want to do something interesting with it but not sure what. I know the edges probably need to come off as they are rot, but after that I’m not sure. Weights about 30lbs. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated. May be oak, but it’s a weird cut so hard for me to tell.

I have a pretty cool(in my opinion) piece of wood and want to do something with it but not sure what. It’s pretty flat but does have a mild warp. I know the strips on the sides probably need to come off, but what then? I think it is oak, but the way it is cut makes it hard for me to be sure. I’ve had it for 5-8 years so it should be very dry and it was old when I got it. Thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

Started making end grain chopping blocks using maple. While they are turning out nice, I’m wondering if there is a wood that is darker that would also be very similar in density that I could use to add contrast. My thoughts are that I want them to wear evenly when being used. Picture is a couple of my early ones that just needs the edges finished and oiled.

Had my shop vac hooked up and still had lots of dust on my project. Took the backside off and there was not a problem. Took the front side off and the evacuation shoot was clogged. Used a fine pick to clear. Works great now. Two screws to remove the belt assembly. About 8 to take of that side. Clean out the evacuation channel and it works like new.

Made a few end grain cutting boards with some hard maple. First time doing end grain. Didn’t realize that hard maple was a complete pain in the butt to sand. I used a router sled to get it as close as I could but sanding was taking forever to get the router marks out. Had my buddy run it through his drum sander at work and the smooth side was the result of about 30 passes (it looked like the side with the router marks at first.) now I have to get the burn marks out of the good side and not looking forward for that. Not only that, but I feel like I can feel the glue between each block, which I don’t like.
So I was thinking about improving my alignment in the first place and was wondering if anybody had suggestions on that. I used bar clamps as much as possible, and while that got it close, it wasn’t close enough. Was thinking about was thinking about making a jig that I could use to use dowels all the way through the board for alignment for final assembly. The board pictured was assembled with 12 strips 8 long—so in my head I was thinking that if I put say 4 hole in the 8 long stripes that I could put a dowel all the way through each of the 12 pieces, then the alignment would be significantly better, but not sure if it would work or if there is a better way.
And two, does the glue have to cover the entire contact area for a strong connection. The individual blocks on the two boards are 1.75”. Would the connection still be strong if the glue was only on the bottom 1.25 inch? This would tremendously reduce the amount of clean up at the end of glue and then I wouldn’t feel the glue lines.
Thoughts and advice are appreciated.
Note—getting my own drum sand won’t happen until I can sell enough of my boards to buy it, per the boss(my wife).

UPDATE- I tried addressing the vibration by putting cork under each foot and noticed a difference, but wasn’t enough. May get some rubber feet and see if that makes any difference
UPDATE 2-all the people that said dull blades were right. Feels like I have a new machine. Problem fixed. Thank you!
Got a bunch of old maple and am about to start making things. Jointed 2 edges and went to plane the wood. Then I noticed that my planer was self adjusting as it was planing the wood. Thinner wood isn’t really a problem, but this wood is about 3.5” and you can see the knob rotate as the wood is going through. This happens even if the knob is past the 6 o clock position and will still rotate clockwise. So my pieces are thicker on one end than the other and will do the same the next time I run the piece through.
It’s on the dimensioning speed setting. Any help would be appreciated. Out of warranty and dewalt won’t help.

UPDATE- I tried addressing the vibration by putting cork under each foot and noticed a difference, but wasn’t enough. May get some rubber feet and see if that makes any difference
UPDATE 2-all the people that said dull blades were right. Feels like I have a new machine. Problem fixed. Thank you!
I acquired a bunch of hard maple and have been trying to make it nice and useable. But I noticed my 5 year old 735 is doing something very annoying and don’t know how to adjust it. Notice in the video that the height adjustment wheel moves itself. This happens anytime it’s engaging much of the wood but doesn’t when it’s only touching a small part of the wood or a very narrow piece of wood. Note that the wheel is making the blades go down and this happens even if the handle has to move up instead of down. The planer is out of warranty.
Thoughts on how to tighten whatever is loose, dewalt was no help.

Just pulled my old stairs to my patio off and found this. I can tell part is moisture related but something did more damage.

Picked up a bunch of old barn wood from a place going out of business for cheap. Some was painted white and I tested it for led the brought it the the hazmat place. Boo. But I now have a 20 10-12 ft 8/4 6” wide and about the same number 8” wide. I also have about a dozen 8/4 4 inch wide of varying length. Not bad for $100, right?

I am just now, about 2 years later, starting to work with it and am recognizing a few problems. The biggest one is nails. They apparently used a sawzall to cut nails when disassembling the barn. Some pieces only have a couple nails per foot, but some have 6-8. Since they are mostly cut ~flush, I’m using a drill bit to got about 1/4” dip around the head and then using a pair of dykes to grab the nail and raise enough for a pair of pliers to grab it. While this does mess up part of the wood, I’m more worried about my jointer, planer, table saw and miter hitting a nail.

I also have a metal detector to make sure I don’t miss any.

So my questions for the community are: if you were trying to use the wood to sell so you could buy more/better woodworking stuff, what would you make? How many nails per board foot would you remove to make it realistic? And if you were removing the last 1.5-2 inches of 8 penny or 10penny nails, how would you do it most effectively and efficiently?

Thanks for any and all feedback!

Have an empty area at the south end of an above ground pool that I would like to use for a cold frame, but have a shed/pole barn further south. I’m in Ohio at 39.73N. The diagram is not exactly to scale, but the measurements are pretty close. Who’s good with this kind of math and would there be enough sunlight during the winter to support a cold frame? Any other thoughts and tips would be appreciated.