I have purchased a monthly patreon account for a podcast I'd like to support, how do I get the patron account subscription to sync with the pocketcasts app on my iphone?
I'm not expecting 100% accuracy all the time, but why is it that claude (and also chatgpt) are wrong a lot of the times?
I'm not an expert, so I use AI when I'm stuck or just not sure where to start, but sometimes I ask it questions where I know the answer and claude is very, very wrong. Of course if you don't know it is wrong you proceed, but when you know it is wrong, it is hard to move on.
I'm also getting very annoyed with the politeness. I just want straight answers, I don't need the apologizing and extra wall of text that comes along with some of the bad information that was sent.
I assume others are also experiencing this type of behavior.
Edit- Sorry for not providing more info. I don't have a specific issue, more of a general question on how to get claude to
Once I get around those two obstacles it is generally a good tool to use.
I have a network with two 48 port switches, they are not identical models. If I connect them for redundancy, the STP message appears, which I understand why the message appears and since it makes it look 'bad' I simply leave the second link unplugged, for now. I hate logging in and seeing a red caution sign 24/7.
Under High Availability, I have the option for MC-LAG and stacking but it sees my devices are not compatible for these options, which I fully understand and I'm not questioning, but how can I set up redundancy w/o having to deal with the constant red STP warning?
Every time I get a fedex ground label sent to me, their online page never accepts my tracking number.
I tried to call it in using their automated system that you can zero out to get an agent and it says my tracking number is invalid.
I finally googled for a working fedex number that takes you to a human and that person told me that prepaid ground labels will never be accepted on the online ground return label site.
Who is running the show at fedex? What a garbage company.
UPS wins here, you can quickly and easily create a ground pickup on their site and you don't even need an account number/account/etc....and you shouldn't since you have a prepaid label that someone else is paying for/has already paid for.
https://www.fedex.com/grd/rpp/ShowRPP.do
That's the site I've always used. I think it has worked 1 time out of hundreds of attempts.
Not sure why fedex would rather have you call and talk to a human or call into a system that is flagging your tracking number as invalid. What a joke.
I have set the time zone properly in the web gui, but there is no option for DST in the web GUI. I was in the web GUI for something else, 99% of the configuration is done via CLI.
I added the following command
> clock summer-time CDT start mar 2 sun 02:00 end nov 1 sun 02:00
I also set the following for the time zone
>clock timezone cst -6
When I run 'show clock' it shows me the time 1 hour behind, why? I can only get the correct time when I change the time zone to eastern -5, but that's not correct as I'm in central time zone.
I don't think this is limited to Fiber Store switches, I've had the same issue with cisco switches, but I either remember to correct it twice a year or if I need logs I just know to look for the hour difference. I'm trying to correct that by at least making sure each device is configured properly.
We don't have a central 'time server' that we point all devices to, I guess we aren't big enough for that or it hasn't been something that was asked for. I'd rather not change the topic of discussion to central time. I'd like to figure out why this one particular device is off by one hour.
Switch model is S3410-48TS-P
Thanks.
EDIT
I think I left out some context/output from entering my post.
I typed
>clock summer-time CDT start mar 2 sun 02:00 end nov 1 sun 02:00
pressed enter and the switch sent back
>set summer-time: CDT from March the 2nd Sunday at 02:00 TO November the 1st Sunday at 2:00, ahead 1 hour > switch2(config)#
I am editing the default http/https NAT and firewall rules to only allow connectivity from a few offices. When I apply the address group as the source it applies my settings, but then it creates a new NAT rule with the source as any. For now, I just disable the new rule it creates. It does this for http and https and only for the NAT Policy, it does not do it for the firewall rules.
This doesn't seem normal to me.
I'm looking to buy a power meter to test some cables, here are the scenarios I'm trying to cover.
I'm looking for entry level stuff, I'm not looking to buy fluke level meters.
Will either of these options work and if so, which do you recommend?
They are not listed in any particular order.
While all new stuff we run is SM, we also have active MM fiber. We have a professional LV contractor with the fluke gear, but we are looking to build a small 'in house' kit that we can quickly use to determine some issues on our own or while we wait/troubleshoot, etc. We have a handful of VFL's since we use those often when tracing fiber that isn't used or when we want to confirm we are on the correct (unused) strand.
Option 1
https://www.amazon.com/KomShine-Maintenance-Optical-Singlemode-KLS-35-S/dp/B07MNMS868/ref=sr_1_2?
Option 2
https://www.amazon.com/KPM-35-Wavelengths-Singlemode-Multimode-Calibration/dp/B0D1N8H1N7/ref=sr_1_3?
Option 3
https://www.fs.com/products/97572.html?now_cid=38
https://www.fs.com/products/97488.html?now_cid=35
I'm not against something else, if you don't recommend any of the options above, please post something that will meet the current requirements.
Also, I'm new to this, please keep that in mind.
Thanks.
I'm testing with some cheap chinese LC connectors as to not waste money on good connectors.
I was able to successfully put on one end and secure the glass into the connector, but the fiber jacket is even with the end of the boot and it seems like it needs to be higher up in the connector.
When I slightly bend the fiber jacket, you see a lot of red light at the end of the boot which tells me there is too much movement.
Seems that I need to be a lot better with my mm measurements.
Are you guys just using a flat mm ruler to quickly measure to know where to cut? Or are the connectors you are buying coming with jigs/templates?
Good news is that after I cleave the fiber the light is a nice, tight circle. Prior to cleaving it is very wide/scattered so the cleaving part appears to be working correctly.
Thanks.
Edit- Second attempt was much better, part of the issue was a small black rubber boot that was there to hold the cable in was getting in the way when when I was trying to lay the fiber in the cleaver which meant I needed to make everything longer. By doing that, it puts the black boot too far away from the end of the jacket and doesn't help with the strain relief.
The LC connectors also have a metal clip that can be used AFTER you cleave to keep the fiber jacket secured, so I ditched the black boot and used the metal clip and everything sturdy and when I bend the cable jacket there is no red light showing and it feels very solid.
I guess the next step would be to confirm that the cable I made is good.
So far I just took a patch cable and cut it in half so one end is factory and the other end is the one made by me.
Can someone recommend a power meter I can purchase to test this cable?
https://www.fs.com/products/97488.html?now_cid=35
That only has one port, will a VFL on the other end compliment this device well?
Or do I need something like this?
https://www.fs.com/products/97572.html?now_cid=38
or
I am very confused here even after reading the kb.
If I create a local user and don't set any time values, when I login as that user to manage the firewall I have a 30 min limit. It uses 0 as the default. At 30 min I get logged out but I can do this an unlimited amount of times.
If I set it to 60 minutes, I only get 60 minutes total. If I login for 20 min and log out, next time I have 40 min remaining.
I tested with 1 hour and it is the same result. I figured it would be but I wanted to verify. I logged in, worked for 10 min, logged out and next login it showed 50 min remaining.
Why can't a local user login like the default admin w/o a time limit? I like the idea of time limits there is a use case, but if you set it to 0 (disabled, which is default) there shouldn't be an additional pop up requiring to hit 'manage' and a forced 30 min session.
Also, when I tried to login while another admin was logged in, I noticed that I no longer had the option to preempt. I could only 'end management' or continue with 'non-config' or something along those lines. Non-config would be fine but the toggle for config and non-config is grayed out when logged in as a local user (I am also in the admin user group).
Please tell me I am missing something.
When I copy/paste from keeper or use the browser extension, it adds the username twice and it adds the password twice. I have to manually erase the second entry from both fields in order to login.
For example, this is what I see when using keeper.
usernameusername passwordpassword
Just started a few days ago.
Confirmed in chrome and firefox.
I am helping a friend with an issue they are having. They have been in this home for about 5 years and this unit was already in the home.
Here is a similar pic of the unit since I wasn't able to find a specific model number.
The difference between his unit and the generic unit I linked to is that his unit does NOT have the 3 terminals (remote) on the right side, other than that, it looks just like this.
The newer "watchdog" units seem to have 4 lights not 5.
His issue is that the backup unit never stops running. Assume everything I say is with regular house power I'm not describing anything in a power loss scenario as I've never been there during a power outage.
The unit seemed to be working fine when they moved in then about a year later it just started beeping, I forget what it said, but something to do with the battery (I was initially helping over a phone call). Anyway, he decided on his own to replace the battery thinking it was likely old. He is noy very handy so he doesn't own a multimeter or wouldn't know how to begin testing the battery anyway.
He buys a new battery and his neighbor helped him wire it up, I am about a 45 min drive away so I couldn't easily help with this. The new battery didn't seem to help, but we have a new issue with the 'new' battery. When the new battery is connected, the red WATER LED is lit up. This battery is new and does not appear to take water unless a top cap needs to be removed from the battery. However, I don't know why a new battery would already require water.
When the battery is connected and you press the yellow button, the pump cycles on and you hear the float click to stop/start the pump so the pump and float appear to be working fine. As stated, the battery is new but I'm not a fan of the red water LED and my gut tells me that maybe the controller simply needs to be updated/changed.
Side not, he did call someone that was referred to him to come take a look at this. He stopped by the first time, told him he needed a battery and he would set up another visit to swap it out and he never called him to set up the visit and he didn't return the call my friend made so this guy seems like he isn't interested in what is a 'small' job to him. That's how I got involved.
Is there something obvious I'm missing with the current unit or is replacing the controller the next best approach? I'm not sure what else it could be at this point.
I'm not able to find the controller on its own, he doesn't need the full kit as everything else (battery, pump and float) appear to be operating. Do they not sell the controller on its own?
Thanks.
I am considering running fiber in my home and I don't want to run fiber patch cables with the ends already terminated.
I'm reading reddit posts and seeing very consistent posts stating that the signal ai-9 is a good budget system and to purchase from a US company to avoid paying customs fees.
I'm also seeing that the cleaver that comes with the ai-9 isn't the best.
Is the ai-10 better? A limitation of the 9 seems to be that it requires an app.
Fiber splicing also interests me, maybe there is a chance I do more splices for some side jobs I take on where they have fiber in their home/business, but that's a discussion for another day.
I do often take on side jobs for an A/V company that does work in high end homes but they run pre terminated cable and on a few new jobs they already ran fiber (SM) but have not terminated, they are just future proofing a bit. Some of their earlier installs have MM in the wall, some are terminated and some are not.
I don't like the idea of using an app to switch to MM, my concern isn't that I need an app but if that app is ever no longer supported on the most up to date device I'm using and I can't switch to MM. It seems that some service on the ai-9 requires the app, as well, and if I have issues or need to service, it likely won't be for a while and who knows what state the app will be in, at that time.
Does the ai-10 have this app requirement issue?
The used splicers are going for more than I want to spent. On the splicer alone, I really don't want to spend more than 1200.
The ai-9 is listed for 1050 on cable tools usa website, which is under my range. I've read a couple bad things about the ai-9 but the majority were good.
Which cleaver do you recommend?
Since some of those posts were at least two years old, I figured I would ask here, first.
I have a door hub mini that is configured to open the garage door on LP detection. That part is working fine. However, I'm only using NO and COM (on dry) on the door hub mini, nothing else.
This is all new to me so I don't have any historical data to go off of, but here is a scenario I'm a bit confused on - I pull into my driveway and the camera detects my plate and opens the garage (so far this works fine). I leave my car parked outside (in this specific scenario) and I walk into the garage and go inside my house and before entering the house I press the wall button to close the garage. I currently have the protect alarm to "Ignore Repeated Actions" and it is set to 10 min.
One hour passes and I exit my house through another door, garage is still closed. I get in my car, back out of the driveway. Will my door open once my plate is detected? I have to assume protect doesn't know or care if I'm coming or going it just sees the plate and opens the door. Obviously I would see the door open and close it, but that's not a practical solution.
I feel that I need to wire something to the door hub mini so it knows when the door is in the closed position, but I'm new to this and don't want to make assumptions and I would like to wire in a sensor, if needed.
Thanks.
Edit- I'm not sure why this is being downvoted, am I missing something obvious? I thought I did a good job of keeping it short while giving information on my problem. I'm fine with the downvote, but if I don't know why I'm being downvoted then I'm not sure how to fix the problem. More info? Too much info? Help me out here.
I am considering installing a Reader Flex and this is one of the accessories.
Reader Flex
https://store.ui.com/us/en/category/door-access-readers/products/ua-g3-flex
Junction Box accessory for the Reader Flex
https://store.ui.com/us/en/products/uacc-reader-jb
However, the install instructions don't show the Reader Flex as one of the install options.
My home is brick and there is an aluminum casing that sits on top of the brick which is why I'd need some type of junction box, the aluminum casing is not deep enough for the Reader Flex. I could get cat6 behind the aluminum trim and into the garage, but the Reader Flex needs to sit in some type of junction box/housing to keep the network jack protected from the elements.
I'm not looking for junction box recommendations since I haven't made up my mind yet, but if you'd like to recommend something, please do.
I mainly created this topic because I'm confused about their recommendation of this junction box that is listed on their site and I'm curious if I am overlooking something?
Thanks.
A recent issue I'm having got me to think about this in the other direction.
I currently have an Avigilon VMS with POS text inserter license which allows me to 'grab' the POS data and bring it into Avigilon. Avigilon makes that data searchable so I can use text and search for specific items that were part of the POS transactions. This is very useful. The issue I'm having with Avigilon are the settings and filters that are used to configure the current system. While it does work, I need to make some tweaks and it is hard to do in a production system (I'm not always at this site and there are limited windows where I can make changes to 'test' those changes).
For this reason, I'm looking to see if there is software that I can use to take the POS transactions out of Avigilon and run it on dedicated software. Meaning, instead of configuring the POS parameters inside of Aviglon, I'd be doing this in 3rd party software (if it is available). I would also like for this software to have the ability to connect a camera via RTSP or ONVIF so I can tie in the text captured with the video recording. This isn't a must have, but it would be nice. What I really want is a program that can record the POS data, index it and make it searchable for later use. If I find something via the POS transactions, I can always notate the timestamp and view the video within Avigilon.
When I search by an actor, I'll get results, but I know that I have more movies that they are in but are not showing in the results. This is very likely due to them having a smaller role in the film, but I often notice that Jellyfin only shows a small percentage of actors in the film compared to plex where you see many more actors regardless of their relevance in the film.
I'm looking for a picture of the tire PSI sticker on the driver door. I'd like to know the stock/OEM psi values.
Can someone snap a pic or post the PSI values?
I'm not sure if this is the best place for this question, but I imagine many in this space will have the answer I'm looking for.
I'm considering buying one of these devices, I am still creating a list of pros/cons, but before I continue with my list, I'd like to see if a budget friendly HDBaseT matrix has/does what I want or if these 'budget' systems are not great/limited, which I understand as you get what you pay for.
I'm really hoping that someone here has used one of the systems I linked below or has another brand to recommend that works well.
The goal is to put all the devices in the network rack, which is located in the basement of the home. Apple TV, nvidia shield, etc... any device with hdmi that I want to send to any/all TVs in the home (obviously where a HDBaseT receiver is connected to). I'm fine with getting a 4 output matrix over the 8 output matrix. I'd only buy 8 for future proofing, but being limited to 4 is not an issue. I haven't compared every single system against one another, yet, but I plan to. I'm seeing that the pricing is similar between 4 and 8 so I need to see what stands out between those two systems.
I would need to run shielded catX for HDBaseT, but before I go through that hassle, I want to make sure there is a matrix system that can do what I'd like at my price point.
This is what I'm currently struggling with Also, I have worked on projects with professional a/v companies that install hdmi matrix devices in high end homes/businesses and everything is programed with their laptops using 'dealer' software that I don't have access to. For example, when the customer wants to watch a TV show using apple TV, they grab their universal remote, press apple TV, the TV turns on, the AVR switches to the input with the hdmi video matrix and the hdmi video matrix makes the apple TV hdmi port 'active' so it is displayed on the TV the customer selected from their remote. Obviously this is easy for the customer assuming the a/v tech programmed everything properly.
This is one thing I'm struggling with, with any of the 'budget' systems I'm looking at. They come with a remote, they have a web server to access and control over the network, but how can I 'somewhat' automate the scenario I described above? I can buy a universal remote, but I'm getting lost on how everything has to get programmed.
I don't want to use the TV remote to turn on the TV, then open my phone to open the hdmi matrix app to switch to the correct matrix input, then use the apple tv remote with IR sensor to change the channel on the apple TV.
For those that are using these budget friendly matrix devices, how are you handling the programming?
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-HDMI-Extender-Matrix-OREI/dp/B08141KQH4/ref=sr_1_6?
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-HDMI-Matrix-Switcher-Extender/dp/B0CHXHMGBV/ref=sr_1_8?
https://www.amazon.com/8x8-HDMI-Extender-Matrix-OREI/dp/B0CGG6373J/ref=sr_1_9?
I have a remote site where the sonicwall just randomly rebooted. The sonicwall is plugged into a PDU with other devices (switch, camera PC, etc) and the uptime on those devices shows more than 90 days but the sonicwall has uptime of about 3 minutes as of this post.
TZ80 running 8.2.0-8009 and checking for updates shows this as up to date.
I know there was some older firmware that had a vulnerability that was being targeted that could allow for sonicwalls to be rebooted, but I'm not sure what's going on with this sonicwall with the 'random' reboot.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
I'm considering buying one of these devices, I am still creating a list of pros/cons, but before I continue with my list, I'd like to see if a budget friendly HDBaseT matrix has/does what I want or if these 'budget' systems are not great/limited, which I understand as you get what you pay for.
I'm really hoping that someone here has used one of the systems I linked below or has another brand to recommend that works well.
The goal is to put all the devices in the network rack, which is located in the basement of the home. Apple TV, nvidia shield, etc... any device with hdmi that I want to send to any/all TVs in the home (obviously where a HDBaseT receiver is connected to). I'm fine with getting a 4 output matrix over the 8 output matrix. I'd only buy 8 for future proofing, but being limited to 4 is not an issue. I haven't compared every single system against one another, yet, but I plan to. I'm seeing that the pricing is similar between 4 and 8 so I need to see what stands out between those two systems.
I would need to run shielded catX for HDBaseT, but before I go through that hassle, I want to make sure there is a matrix system that can do what I'd like at my price point.
This is what I'm currently struggling with Also, I have worked on projects with professional a/v companies that install hdmi matrix devices in high end homes/businesses and everything is programed with their laptops using 'dealer' software that I don't have access to. For example, when the customer wants to watch a TV show using apple TV, they grab their universal remote, press apple TV, the TV turns on, the AVR switches to the input with the hdmi video matrix and the hdmi video matrix makes the apple TV hdmi port 'active' so it is displayed on the TV the customer selected from their remote. Obviously this is easy for the customer assuming the a/v tech programmed everything properly.
This is one thing I'm struggling with, with any of the 'budget' systems I'm looking at. They come with a remote, they have a web server to access and control over the network, but how can I 'somewhat' automate the scenario I described above? I can buy a universal remote, but I'm getting lost on how everything has to get programmed.
I don't want to use the TV remote to turn on the TV, then open my phone to open the hdmi matrix app to switch to the correct matrix input, then use the apple tv remote with IR sensor to change the channel on the apple TV.
For those that are using these budget friendly matrix devices, how are you handling the programming?
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-HDMI-Extender-Matrix-OREI/dp/B08141KQH4/ref=sr_1_6?
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-HDMI-Matrix-Switcher-Extender/dp/B0CHXHMGBV/ref=sr_1_8?
https://www.amazon.com/8x8-HDMI-Extender-Matrix-OREI/dp/B0CGG6373J/ref=sr_1_9?
