r/AnalogRepair

I am not sure of the origin of that issue, nor how to fix said issue (not sure how to explain but the video demonstrates the issue when firing)
I may or may not have a roll of film inside because i got way too happy with this camera
Before anyone asks, i JUST got the t4, and it needs new light seals so cant shoot with that yet
Ignore the canon its just so i don’t completely waste a shot of film

Good morning, everyone. The shutter on my Olympus OM-1 is jammed, and when I opened the lower body, I noticed that this small part has broken (ca8810). How can I fix it? I’d rather not buy a camera just for spare parts. Can anyone help me? Thank you.

Tsubosaka has just introduced a new generation of film camera tester, aimed at professionals.

Some basic specifications from the manufacturer:
Exposure / AE tester
Exposure time: measured in ms, with speeds up to 1/8000s
X contact time: measured in ms
Aperture: F-number error measured against reference F-number
ISO sensitivity selection: 25, 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200
Reference F-number selection: 1.0, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32
Measurement accuracy: ±0.07 EV or less (±5%)
Shutter tester
Measurement items: TOP / CENT / BOTT / FULL / RUN1C / RUN2C / RUN1CH / RUN2CH / X / X+ / FP / M
Measurement accuracy with parallel light source: ±5 μs or less

Other:
External communication: USB, Virtual COM port / RS-232C compliant
Power: AC100 ±10%, 50/60 Hz
Main unit with diffused light source: 253 × 250 × 321 mm, 8 kg
Parallel light source: 140 × 400 × 214 mm, 4 kg

Tsubosaka site , tsuboska archive site

And the big question: how much?
The current indication is approximately US$20,000.
Obviously, the final cost can vary depending on shipping, import duties, taxes, and where you are buying from.

For anyone interested in making an inquiry about the tester, Mao Yamada on Instagram (@yamada__camera) is currently operating the only unit produced so far and is the person to contact for further information.

Credit to Mao Yamada for sharing this information with the community.

The images in this post are also from Mao Yamada’s Instagram.

Unfortunately not a sponsored post

Hi there, how do I get the slow-speed mechanism on a Zorki-4 to work? I completely disassembled and reassembled the camera, but I can’t seem to fit the mechanism properly.
I also suspect that the previous owner tried changing the shutter speeds without winding the mechanism first. How can I make sure that the timing gear is correctly positioned when the mechanism isn’t wound?

I’m going through this camera I picked up and giving it a good cleaning and adjustment, I’m finding one of the light meter cells on the prism is loose. I’m looking for advice on what is safe to use to clean the old epoxy and what is recommended to reapply it? Since it’s on the prism I don’t want to risk damaging the black coating or using anything that may hinder the photocell.

I have on hand contact cement, superglue, and E6000.

Hi everyone! I am getting into camera repair as a hobby, reading recommended literature, and practicing on cheap gear. I have basic tools and a set of JIS screwdrivers (VESSEL).

My first project is an Olympus TRIP 30AF that is completely dead:

* Fresh batteries produce no response (no lights, motor, or sound).
* It looks like there was a battery leak; the compartment and springs show corrosion.
* I cleaned the visible contacts and scraped them, but there is still no power. I cleaned it and the cotton swabs came out brown.

**Questions:**

1. What are the best next steps to trace electrical continuity past the battery bay?

2. Beyond bad contacts, what are common points of failure on these compact point & shoots when a battery leaks (corroded internal wiring, blown fuse, bad caps)?

3. Any recommendations for beginner friendly camera models to practice repairs on?

Thanks for any guidance!

What's happening here? Is it an issue and if so, is it fixable?

Minolta CL white sprocket is not moving, while rewinding, I don't know is it normal? Jammed yesterday twice in the middle of the film, is possible to fix it myself? Was never in CLA

Pentax ME Super. Shutter doesn't lock up after turning the advance lever. I bought this from a thrift store and i think the previous owner tried to fix this problem by adding oil on the shutter leaves. Any tips how to clean the shutter and fix the cocking problem. Or do you think they are related?

I have a second hand point and shoot 35mm camera (Skina Lito28) where the negative wire from the battery has broken off the circuit board. From this image is anyone able to tell where it should connect to? The yellow circle is where the positive battery wire connects if that helps.

Got this 90mm 1.25 in a bargain trade a while back. Traded away a 7A 50mm 1.1 that I wasn’t really using.
Looked clean until I noticed grease creeping into the aperture blades after sitting in my display cabinet for a few months.

Opened it up and found an absolutely stupid amount of helicoid grease everywhere. Whoever serviced this thing really went for it. Either that or he applies the same philosophy to drinking alcohol.

So I took it down to the blades, cleaned/degreased everything, and put it back together with a more reasonable amount of grease.

Haven’t even properly shot with it yet, I just need to find time to take pictures instead of taking cameras apart.

Disassembly notes:
- There’s 2 the rear elements accessible from the back held by a lock ring, observe orientation
- The helicoid is accessible from the rear mount/body and must be separated from the focusing barrel & mid-body. Take note or mark where you start unscrewing and where the helicoid separates.
- The front lens group is held by the nameplate ring and comes off as 1 assembly. The ball bearing and spring for the aperture detents is located just under the aperture marker and will fly off when the front housing is removed.
- Aperture front plate/blades is held on by a c-clip and aperture lever.

I'm trying to remove the shutter button to access the contacts of the shutter speed selector on my 570/500 but I don't really know how to.

I've seen videos of the 700's button removed but they have different retaining systems.

I'm also using a repair manual from Minolta for reference and it says there's a retaining clip that holds it in place. I'm just not sure how to remove it or even if it's required to remove it.

The red arrow points to the clip and the green arrow is the black plastic that hides it from view.

Hey all,

I just inherited a Nikon F-801. The battery housing was broken, so I 3d printed a new one. It now turns on, but i still flashing with an error on the display whenever any buttons are pressed. The aperture actuation tab is also fully locked up, which I think may be the reason for the error, but I have no clue how to free it up. I've tried gently wiggling it, and it feels completely mechanically locked.

Hi my dad recently gave me this camera and i want to use it but the lever is stuck i am not exactly sure if its because there is no film in it or if there is a larger issue any advice would be helpful. its a nikon fe 10 and the lever closes completely but gets stuck at the point it is in the photos.

I inherited an exacta vx, the focusing screen in the viewfinder has been nasty for decades. But because it is a family heirloom, I don't want to replace anything that isn't too broken. And I really don't want to break anything on the camera. I'm too afraid to use a needle to pick at the. I really don't know the proper way to do this. It appears to be just made of uncoated optical glass... I think.