r/BMW

Hey Reddit. So, like the title reads, I need some advice. I had heard pretty negative things about them as I’ve spent the past few months car hunting. Obviously I have been eyeing Honda or Toyota, and recently Mazda because those are commonly known well-performing cars. However, searching deeper on Reddit and other sites, I have seen posts mentioning that BMW has made remarkable improvements the past year or so (I am absolutely not a car nerd or expert so I would love fact checking and corrections in the comments). Then, I saw quite a few discussions suggesting that both Honda and Toyota are becoming over priced and functioning worse than they used to. And damn— I was shocked to see that getting a used Honda accord could be around the same price as a used BMW. I guess in my brain a BMW would be way more. So now I just need help from you folks to let me know if I was reading straight BS or if this is true. I am getting a new car next year and want it to last me some good years without having to repair it a hundred times.

If you value basic competence, integrity, or your time, avoid Budds' BMW Oakville. Any other BMW dealership in the region will treat you with far more respect.

The warning signs began when I placed a factory order in July. The sales representative completely forgot our scheduled test drive appointment when we arrived, but because I was purchasing a brand-new vehicle, I gave them the benefit of the doubt. That turned out to be a massive mistake.

After waiting three months for delivery, I was contacted with an official pickup date. Operating in good faith, I arranged the sale of my current vehicle to align with the handover. When I arrived at the dealership, I was stunned to discover they had ordered entirely the wrong vehicle: a completely stripped-down specification missing the key packages and options I had selected. Despite delivering a vehicle with significantly fewer features, they manipulated the pricing upward so the total matched my original agreed-upon contract. When I pointed this out, the response was outright indifference. To make matters worse, despite leaving me completely stranded without transportation due to their mistake, management flatly refused to provide a loaner or any meaningful temporary accommodation.

Against my better judgment, I agreed to wait another three months for a corrected build. Two days later, the exact same sales representative called to inform me that the pricing quoted three months prior was "a mistake" and that he would need to raise the price yet again.

That was the breaking point. I promptly cancelled the deal and took my business to Grand River BMW in Waterloo. The contrast was night and day: immediate professionalism, transparent communication, and complete respect for the client. Not only did Grand River secure the exact build I wanted, but they also delivered a significantly better deal without the bait-and-switch tactics.

Budds' BMW demonstrated a shocking lack of accountability from start to finish. Take your business elsewhere.

Hey everyone, looking for some real-world mechanical advice, preferably from BMW techs or anyone running a similar setup long-term.

I have a 2022 G31 530d xDrive Touring. The car is out of warranty, so I don't care about dealership claims being denied. My only goal is to avoid mechanically frying the ATC13 transfer case.

I’m putting together a winter set using the 792M wheels I kept from my 3 Series:

• Wheels: 4x 8Jx19 ET27 (Square)
• Tires: 245/40 R19 all around
• The catch: I want to use standard, non-homologated tires (no BMW Star mark) to save some cash.

I know that running non-homologated tires on a staggered setup is a death sentence for xDrive because the rolling circumferences can vary between the front and rear molds. But since I am running a perfectly square setup (identical 8J wheels and identical 245 tires on all four corners), the rotational speed should be mathematically identical, right?

Is anyone here running standard, non-homologated tires on a square xDrive setup without issues? As long as I rotate them front-to-back to keep tread wear perfectly even, is there any actual mechanical risk to the transfer case, or is the "always use star marks" strictly a dealership warranty rule?

Appreciate any insight!