there is any interest on this?i have plenty of them
Features:
24 RJ45 CAT6A ports
Supports up to 10Gbps speed
Standard 19” rack mount
Easy installation and cable management
Durable metal construction
Compatible with CAT6 and CAT5e cables
i can sell them bulk as i have plenty
I was deciding if it was worth paying for an electrician to upgrade my board as it was all working fine and now I see the before and after and I am amazed how far things have come, wow!
I have one question though, will it be possible for me to add a car charger in future?
Attached before and after photos.
This is a tricky one because i think it depends on local authority.
Ive just done a EICR on a three story HMO with a plastic split load board in the entrance hallway/ stairwell. Fire escape route.
Id usually code as C3 for this and then C3 for type AC aswell but as a HMO isnt the standard higher? Im looking to code as C2 but is that too strict?
I think I should be expecting firesealing, 18th edition board and type As as a minimum?
How do you handle the usual issue when working in older properties with split load boards: Working on the kitchen sockets, you need to cut a cable or the neutral conductor touches the CPC — ping! Off goes the main RCD, along with the customer’s Wi-Fi…
I know the usual tricks to minimise this happening, but the best solution to me still seems to be disconnecting the neutral at the board. However, on a small job? And when the consumer unit looks like this, who is realistically going to spend the time identifying the correct neutral conductor?
I have a ring circuit with 2.5mm cable on a 20a MCB, presumably as 2 spurs feed multiple outlets.
I need to add a new socket, there is a junction box which has 1x loop in, 1x loop out and 2x spurs in the same junction box. Can I simply add an additional spur to this junction box to power this additional socket? Using a wagobox and wagos as JB is located under flooring
Thanks
Hello all, and thank you in advance any help provided.
I have a Drayton Thermostat Controller which has slid off it's plate. I think it was knocked off it's plate and in the process the pin on the controller and the contacts on the plate have been burnt. This tripped the boiler switch on the fuse box.
Now my boiler is off and the controller no longer works either. We are left with no heating and hot water.
I can get a new plate and controller installed, but why is the boiler not on? Next to the boiler is a switch, and that switch has a fuse, is it possible that fuse has blown too?
I have attached photos of all the above for reference. Any help appreciated!
I know I’m gonna get blasted for asking this… feel free to hammer my question with a response like “get an electrician etc”, but in addition to those reply’s I usually get really helpfully responses from a few awesome dudes so fingers crossed they’re reading 🤞 🙏
I’ve pretty much finished my 8 panel, 1 x 3.68kw Inverter and 16kwh battery install…
I’m just struggling to get a solid / trustworthy answer on how to earth the kit in the image safely
All the gear mentioned above inc the solar panels are in/on my garden room which has a new (professionally installed) secondly consumer unit on a 6mm2 cable from the main house CU.
The inverter shown at the top, has a 6mm feed from the shed CU and is on a bi-directional RCBO, so does have an earth via that cable.
I’m now trying to work out if it’s safe, to fit an earth block near the inverter and run separate 6mm earth cables to the Solar panels on the roof, the MPPT controller and the 16kwh battery case.
If I need a thicker than 6mm earth cable from the solar kit back to the main house CU it’s a massive job, so hoping 6mm earth is ok but obviously not gonna risk anything dangerous…
🙏 Cheers guys
I want to change a double light switch in my house. The existing one i am replacing as no labels for com, l1 and L2 terminals. Does anyone know which terminals are which in the photo ?
Is our electrician being unhelpful or has the sales rep mugged us off?
We bought this pump to increase flow from an under sink RO unit to a plumbed fridge freezer. The sales rep told us it just needed to be wired up to a plug and then it is ready to use but our electrician said it won’t be up to regulations if installed into the kitchen cupboard. Any thoughts gratefully received 🙏🏻😊 (UK based)
I am about to do my 5357-004 design and installation practices and procedures which include using on site guide and would love to tab my book and was wondering if there is a a place to search to do it nicely with page number etc
Or is it mostly branding and aesthetics? How do you identify it? Is there a particular brand or what is it?
We've just removed build-in wardrobe in kids room and found those two cables that seem to be added later and were fixed to a wooden plank. What should we do with them?
They are hanging off the ceiling, going under the loft plank, rather than above. Do we need electrician to move it or should we plasterboard over it?
Can we put the cable in the wall or should we use trunking?
Thanks for your help!
1 is where the mains electricity comes into the house. 2 is the gas and water that goes up in the boxing (4) into a cupboard with gas meter. 3 is trunking where the electric goes up into meter in the same cupboard. How possible would it be to move the electrics into same boxing so everything can be boxed in in that same corner. (To be clear I would use an electrician, not try and DIY! )
I have an outdoor swa cable that I believe runs from my garage to my driveway gates, assuming the cable was intended for powered gates at some stage (I can see the swa ends in both garage and at gates).
How can I best test to see this is the actual cable that runs between these 2 places?
The cable is approx 200m.
Making things more complicated (for me at least) the cable is broken half way along it. One half is still buried, one half is above ground.
I had thought to connect a 12v car battery at one end and test with a multimeter in the middle, nothing, and then moved to the end of the cable to test in case the one in the middle of the garden was a totally different cable, also 0v found.
Unsure if my testing method is no good ie 12v won’t go the distance down a 2.5mm2 cable over this large distance.
Any advice?
Thanks
Hey all,
I’ve been building TaskDrop after speaking to loads of UK tradespeople and hearing the same thing over and over:
Most invoicing software feels bloated and built for office people, not someone on-site trying to get paperwork sorted quickly.
Most trades already run their whole day through WhatsApp anyway — customer messages, site photos, voice notes, payment chasing, updates etc.
So instead of forcing another app, I built TaskDrop to work directly inside WhatsApp.
A tradesperson can send a voice note describing the work, upload photos of handwritten notes/job sheets, or just message naturally and it turns it into proper quotes, invoices and job reports.
It also handles things like:
The core product is completely free.
There’s an optional payment feature called TaskDrop Pay which lets customers pay directly from the invoice by card or open banking (standard processing fees apply).
If customers prefer to pay manually, every invoice still shows the tradesperson’s bank details and sort code like normal.
The idea is simple: the software stays free and only becomes useful enough to support itself when trades are actually getting paid.
It’s already live and being used, but I’m still iterating fast and would genuinely love honest feedback from founders here.
Does the idea make sense?
Anything about the positioning or model feel off?
Site’s here if anyone wants to tear it apart:
I contacted a few local electricians recently and most of them were fully booked for quite a while. I wasn’t sure if that’s just how things are now or if I’ve been unlucky. How far ahead do people usually need to book for non urgent work?
I’m 17, currently in college studying electrical installation, and I’m looking for an apprenticeship at the moment. I’m finding it quite difficult because the competition seems really high where I am, but I’m trying to stay consistent with applying and improving my skills.
I want to make a proper long-term career out of becoming an electrician, so I was wondering what advice qualified electricians would give someone starting out in the trade.
Anything you wish you knew earlier, mistakes to avoid, skills I should focus on, or ways to stand out when trying to get an apprenticeship would really help.
I’m especially interested in:
•Becoming a better electrician overall
•Building good habits early
•Tools worth buying
•Making good money in the future
•Possibly going into solar or running my own business later on
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.