We want to install 4 Pro 3EM to monitor a 208v 3-phase system. The panel box has 4 300amp breakers that go to different sub-panels.
I understand I should install a seperate breaker for C, A and B. Given I have 4 devices on the same panel, should I do a single three pole breaker and power all 4 3EM from one breaker or is there a reason to do 4 seperate breakers?
I bought a couple of these bad boys on sale thinking that they would be as easy to install as the smart 3 way light switches I had previously. But now I'm looking through the threads and I'm getting seriously lost.
With the smart light switches I had before I just had to find the box with the line and replace the switch there with the smart. The dumb switch stays in the other box and it worked.
I assumed I could throw a single Shelly 1 Gen 4 Mini in the line box and have it just work with 3-way switch but I couldn't find a clear installation guide for it anywhere. I'm seeing threads that say you need multiple Shelly 2 PMs or scripting? Do I even have the right hardware for this setup?
Later I wanted to convert the docker switches with the relays into momentary pulse switches to enable some richer automation. But I still wanted the "dumb" end of the 3-way to work like a regular switch.
On computer, target temperature slider works fine, both sliding and clicking in circle and on phone only slider works (perfect). But in shelly display slider doesnt work at all (+/- buttons works fine). Anyone knows why?
I have a Shelly 1 mini gen 3 and I've been trying to install it into a 4 way light circuit with 5 switch locations. I've identified which switch is the last before the light and installed the Shelly relay there. After 3 days of trying, all I get is sometimes it works and sometimes other switches turn off the relay. I thought I understood the wiring and tried again but no. I have black wires and red wires. I'm probably leaving out lots of info so I welcome any questions. I'd appreciate any help. Fyi the 2 gang box is where I installed the relay.
This is insane. I am still thinking about the repercussions of these new capabilities.
I am constantly harping about local, local, local and this gives an amazing level of local functionality.
Scripts can now register their own custom RPC methods. A script exposes a callable method — other scripts, automations, or external systems can call it by name. Your script can now have its own API.
u /meta (note I added a space after U so that we don't point to someone who doesn't need to be bothered by my post :) )
Scripts can declare the virtual components they need directly in their u /meta header. When the script starts, those components are automatically created. When the script is deleted, they're cleaned up. The script owns its data model — no manual setup required.
"These two additions make scripts significantly more self-contained and composable."
Let me give you an example. Wall Display. This product is unique in Shelly's catalog - it not only needs 5GHz Wi-Fi, it also is Cloud dependent. It's running Android 11 (a custom version, but still) and you have to authenticate periodically, though it can run long periods offline. Unfortunately, it doesn't have direct local control of other Shelly device through REST. It doesn't have BTHome components and it handles BLE in scripts differently. So my office's summer intern and I have been working on scripts to make up for all of this. July (his last month in the internship) is going to be BUSY.
Hi, my new Shelly gen 4 have arrived, I'm very keen to add them to my HA.
What is the correct way to wire them into my plugs and switches can I just wire then like the plugs or do I need to crimp fitting onto them for better contacts?
I'm doing 230v (not USA I know)
Have any of you ever had then cause a fire ? Assuming you had the contacts tight
I just finished my first smart control panel to integrate with Home Assistant.
The panel is designed to automate a pool pump, allowing the maintenance person to turn it on or off as needed. Once maintenance is complete, they simply switch the selector back to Smart mode.
The selector has three positions: On, Off, and Smart.
I still need to finish wiring it neatly, but for my first time, I think it turned out pretty well.
Hey all, I’m a huge Shelly guy and have always been very satisfied with the quality of product they put out. As soon as I finished outfitting my house in PM gen 3’s, they dropped the gen 4’s with zigbee which I knew would only be a matter of time before I started slowly moving everything in that direction as that’s my protocol of choice. I’m probably 50/50 zigbee/wifi EM’s and relays now and they’ve been stable as always, and I like that I’m adding more mains powered zigbee devices around to ramp up my mesh strength, which was already pretty good.
Anyways, I’ve had a hell of a time with leak detectors. I have some that don’t interface with Home assistant and actually are great, but I decided i wanted to get some that do interface for redundancy/visibility after a bad leak caused a ton of damage to my home awhile back. I first tried Aqara and they were awful (and I think actually messed up my entire network but I digress), then moved on to third reality which were not much better, and then finally on to Shelly.
Due to the whole aforementioned Aqara issue I had other zigbee issues, so I decided to upgrade my controller from the sonoff dongle to a POE stick. Since migration, I find it harder to get (non-mains) devices to connect, but when they do they’ve stayed pretty solid.
…..except for the Shelly flood gen 4. Admittedly, I had it in what is probably the biggest dead zone in my house (in a closet behind the washer, dryer, and water heater), but with like 8 other mains powered devices within 10 feet of it. Still nothing, couldn’t get it to hold on for the life of me. So now I just moved it out into the open to see how it goes but even there it is still falling off. Is the zigbee just not very good in these? I actually really like the device itself but it’s no good to me if it can’t hold on in bad areas, which unfortunately, are where leak detectors go. There’s not really an optimal place for something that’s usually around/underneath large appliances. Just was curious if anyone else had a similar situation or recommendation.
I’m looking to replace our existing irrigation controller with the Shelly FrankEver Sprinkler controller. Can anyone tell me if it works in conjunction with the Shelly WS-90 weather station and does it adjust your watering based on the stations realtime data?
Hey y'all. Some help would be appreciate with trying to wire up my Shelly1 for home automation.
In my master bedroom I've got a fan, lights on that fan, and lights around the fan.
All of that is controlled with a singular switch. Theres two locations to turn these things on and off. (One near the door way and one across the room near a window, where the bed goes.)
I've pulled the panel off the switch by the door and this is how its wired:
Using a multimeter I was able to determine that the right red changes voltage with the switch.
The bottom wire is bare copper that's been painted. The left Red is hot all the time.
And then theres a black wire in the bottom right.
(So looking at the switch)
Top Left - Red (Always 120V)
Top Right - Red (Switches between 0V and 120V)
Bottom left - Bare copper
Bottom Right - Black wire
I was looking at this wiring diagram to get an idea, but I am a little confused. Can anyone help me out?
Finally Shelly launches circuit breakers, really nice.
Been waiting for something like this, no need for a CB and an then a Shelly device for control.
Only 1 gripe I have...
No neutral cut, that would be quite interesting and no need to that extra little wire.
And an improvement, and yes I know it takes apace to add it. A second Ethernet port to day chain the CBs or other pro devices, for me it would make it perfect.
A lot cleaner instalation.
Another option would be integrated pins on the side and you could connect modules to one another on the side, but that would be a completely diferent design philosophy.
But looks really cool, great addition shelly!
I have a light in my kitchen which will turn on with a blu motion motion sensor. One scene for turning on when motion is detected, one for turning off when no motion is detected, Blindtime 90 seconds, all fine and working like it should.
BUT when i turn on the light via the motion scene and then turn it off manually shortly after in the shelly app or even via alexa voice command because i was going in for a second and don't need it running for this long, i noticed that the blu motion will still detect a motion for way longer then the normal 90 seconds. Even after like 3-4 minutes it will still show "motion detected". if i go back into the kitchen then because i forgot something it will not turn on anymore, i will have to wait like 5 minutes before the motion is not detected anymore and the motion scene will work again to turn on the light. There are no new motions detected even if im right in front of it, but just this motion from like 4-5 minutes ago and it still says "motion detected".
so why does it work when im not turning the light off manually but acts this weird if i turn off the light manually? why would blu motion still detect a motion for this long when the blindtime is just 90 seconds? I noticed the same behavior in my corridor with another blu motion + light.
Thanks!
Why is my Shelly Plus 1 suggesting I “upgrade” firmware from a 2026 version to a 2023 version? Is 20260311 not considered stable?
I've been using a Shelly Plug US Gen4 on my Level 1 EV charger at home and wanted to share how I'm pulling the session data via the Shelly Cloud API to calculate actual cost per mile.
The basic flow: the Shelly captures kWh delivered and timestamps for each charging session. My app pulls that data, applies my utility's time-of-use rate schedule, and calculates exact cost per session — not an estimate based on national averages, but what I actually paid my utility for that specific session at that specific time of day.
The screenshot shows my recent sessions from the dashboard. You can see the per-session cost and kWh varying based on when I charged and which TOU tier applied (sometimes it's in-between because it blends sessions crossing TOU).
A few things I found interesting building this:
Curious if anyone else is doing something similar with the Shelly API for energy cost tracking on their EV.
I have 12 of gen 1, gen 2, and motion sensors amongst my total of 44 smart switches/devices in my home. I started with Shelly 5 years ago. I recently have had a number of the Shelly's disconnect from my wifi (some of my other devices are wifi/zigbee that I run off of my router and my smart things hub.) This one 2PM is the final straw. I am reconnecting it as its built in the wall (without a switch) so I had to pull it out and it wouldn't connect, and I did everything right, and all the convoluted connection protocol's that this company thinks is normal in 2026 to link it to a freaking 2.4 gHZ network. With this many Shelly's you would think I would have the process down, but no. It is so poorly designed, that you have to rediscover how to connect them every time. I was a fanboy of this company even having my friends get them and I installed them for them, but now I am feeling remorse. That is all, my rant for the day. No need for any help other than should I go to sonoff or some other in wall relay?
Im getting tired of setting up home assistant already. Shelly devices works with zigbee, but no dongle that works with shelly app, why?
Installed a bunch of shelly's in a new home and looking to hire someone for assistance with programming. Running quite a few LED PureEdge lights (controlled via Wiz app) on a Homey controller.
The shelly devices run in detached mode on retractive toggle switches. Have a shelly script running all LED power supplies at 100%. And the button pushes relay to Homey for on/off/dimming control of PureEdge lights.
I've been able to get lights to work in a on/off capacity. Occasionally dimming works but it really is a one step forward, two steps back process.
Looking to hire someone who is responsive and trusted to help me troubleshoot a few things.
Hey there,
I've picked up a shelly blu RC button 4 button (the ZB variant) for a new property. The new place is temporary rented so I'm not able to install shelly gateways. What i'm looking to do is use the button with HomeAssistant via BTHome, which all works well.
In my main property, which is outfitted with shelly relays, TRVs, and blu gateways, my buttons and sensors are all able to be set up properly.
At the new property, where i also created a new home in the shelly app, when trying to add the blu 4 remote, the app doesn't let me onboard it without there being a BLU gateway of some sort present in the property.
My goal of adding it to the app is so that i can set up encryption, which is something i want to do moving forward for the principle especially as the property is in a busy area. Beacon mode is also something I'd be interested in looking at too.
But, it looks like the app doesn't let me 'onboard' the button without a gateway, so i can't configure these settings. I still aim to use the button with Home assistant via BThome, so does anyone know of how i'd be able to configure encryption on these without the shelly app, or get it onboarded into the shelly app bypassing the gateway requirement?
Edit: Thank you to u/parkrrrr! The Shelly BLE Debug app is exactly what i needed! Lets me OTA update it too!
Disclaimer: Not an electrician.
I've been wanting to use the Pro line for a while, but all the experts said it complements my existing circuit breakers and that it does not offer the protection of a conventional one, so the only way to add the Pro's was by expanding my existing breaker box (which I was not eager to do).
Is this new product what allows me to replace them all and have a smart breaker box(provided I get the right amperage) and also replaces the need for a EM clamp? Or am I misunderstanding the use of this product?
https://www.shelly.com/products/shelly-pro-1cb-c63a?variant=63494543933789
Looking for help with Shelly app settings. I just installed QuietCool whole house fans and installed a Shelly 2PM Gen4 to each fan motor. These fans have a Low and High speed, that should not be turned on at the same time. We originally set these up to run as a “cover” then realized they will time out after max 300 seconds. Does anyone have a script we can integrate with switch mode that will force one speed to turn off if the other gets clicked on? Preferable with a forced delay before it lets the other speed start.
We will also be integrating Shelly temperature sensors and window sensors soon. If anyone has done a similar project would love to hear your experience with it.
Appreciate any other suggestions!
