I created an order last Saturday. (Amazon) it said and still shows as expected arrival is this coming Saturday?
I am in Raleigh NC the order is coming direct from Shelly not a reseller.
Hey All,
I want to make sure that my wiring strategy is correct. My goal is to monitor power consumption at my heat pump outdoor unit and to monitor temperature at the liquid line, suction line, and outdoor ambient condition.
I intend to use a Shelly EM Gen 3 to monitor power and a Shelly Plus Add On for the sensors. Since I would like to keep the sensor wiring short, I would like to locate the EM inside the actual outdoor unit. The heat pump outdoor unit requires a 240V circuit, the MCA is 17.4, and the MOP is 20.
Here's my wiring plan:
Here are my questions:
Hi everyone,
I bought a Shelly RGBW PM to connect two LED strips. I connected them to 2 different channels (W and G).
I'd like to know how to connect a switch (besides voice control, I'd like a physical switch).
Thanks a lot!
I want to link 2 Shelly 1's, with one on the bathroom behind a switch and one on the bathroom ventilation circuit on our HRV unit. So the one in the bathroom will not be directly switching any load. Is the above image the right way to connect the bathroom one then? Or will this short circuit? I don't know if the Shelly has internal resistance for these type of things.
I basically just want it to "feel" that I used a switch and then active the webhook to set the other Shelly to closing the circuit for the bathroom ventilation connection on the HRV unit.
Looking at this image I feel like I should just connect the switch to SW, then connect L and N, and leave 0 open? For the one in the HRV unit it will then be L and N of course as normal and then connect N to the HRV I/O and connect 0 to the HRV I/O, Or am I mistaking?
The HRV I/O for bathroom ventilation does not run ANY power whatsoever. So I will never run over 8A. It is just a signalling thing.
Hi, I’m using a shelly setup to turn on heating elements whenever there is too much power from the solar panels. I use a temperature sensor to be able to setup more variables when to turn the heating elements on and when to turn them off. The problem that I’ve been having is, that the reading of that temperature sensor didn’t show up anymore like to weeks ago. I switched the add on module as well as the sensor itself to solve the problem, and it did solve it, but today, 4 days after installing the new module and sensor the same problem
accrued again and neither updating the firmware nor restarting the device solved the problem. I’m using the Shelly Plus 1 PM with a Shelly Plus Add On and a DS18B20 (I think it’s that one) as a temperature sensor.
Thanks for reading this and I would really appreciate any ideas.
I was wondering if detached mode is available with the 2.0 update, i can not find it in the changelogs.
I bought 3 of these already have a few and getting so frustrated.
I set one up fine added zigbee lost app connection to device found for some reason cloud disabled ir so re-enable all fine, weird I thought but crack on to next.
Set the next one up, downloaded the switch to zigbee firmware, then cant find anything zigbee related to join it to the network it appeared in the first shelly 1 I did. So set the product through the web ui to factory reset. Now whatever I do I cant get into it. These things always had their flaky ways but this is crazy if I want this kind of aggro I may as well do my own esphome devices. Any help appreciated.
I’m looking to arm and disarm an old school wired alarm system. Is there a relay I could wire into the Ademco/ Honeywell panel to trigger this from my phone? The keypad has 4 wires into the panel. + and - for power plus a data in & data out.
I've alluded to this experiment a few times here and in the Home Assistant sub, but I've never really written it up. So, here goes.
Back in January, a coworker who also uses Home Assistant posted in an internal Slack channel looking for options to monitor the temperature of a deep freeze (chest freezer, storage freezer, whatever you call it) because his mother-in-law had had a catastrophic event with hers. He was looking at an ESPHome-based device that has a flat cable that's supposed to go under the seal, allowing the electronics to live outside the freezer with the temperature sensor inside.
I suggested that a Shelly Blu H&T might do the trick. My only concern was that, according to the spec sheet, they're not designed to work below -5°F. Depending on where I put the sensor in my freezer, it can get a bit colder than that:
A related concern was that lithium button cells are also reputed to have pretty poor performance at low temperatures.
But I happened to have a spare Blu H&T just sitting on my desk doing nothing useful (the indoor unit for the weather station is also in my office, so I already know the humidity and temperature in here) so I took it and dropped it in my own freezer in the garage.
It is now May, a little over 4 months since I started the experiment. The battery level dropped precipitously over the first couple of weeks, but it leveled off at about 70% after a month or two, where it has pretty much stayed ever since:
A graph of battery level for the year 2026 so far
Another question I hear a lot is "isn't a freezer just a big Faraday cage?" and I'd say that while it may be to some extent, between the gap for the rubber seal and presumably other gaps, enough signal gets out that it seems pretty reliable. As I move things around in the freezer and the sensor gets moved from place to place, the signal strength varies a bit, but it's usually in the neighborhood of -80 dBm or so. If I wanted to improve it, I could probably move the Blu Gateway closer to the freezer; it's currently on the other side of the garage. But it seems sufficient as it is.
Anyway, based on my results so far, I'd feel pretty confident in saying that while it's technically not designed for those temperatures, the Blu H&T does a pretty darned good job at those temperatures.
Installed 2 1pm minis. The first is in a bathroom to trigger the exhaust fan every hour for 5 minutes for some air flow. The second is on the switch for the front porch light to be on from dusk to dawn. Everything seems to be wired and working correctly. I can turn the fan and light on and off by throwing the switch. I can do the same from the Shelly app. Scheduling works fine.
The question I have is if I use the switch while the schedule is active it cancels out the program. What I mean is if the porch light is on because the relay is triggered and I accidentally switch it on then off, it stays off. If I am manually running the fan and the program triggers to run the fan for 5 minutes , it’s cuts of the fan despite the switch being in the on position. If flip the switch off then on again the fan is energized.
This is not a big deal. I figure this is the way it works but wanted to check and see if this is correct.
Thx
The main feed from the locked utility cabinet to my panels main breaker are flat busbar type connections. I simply disconnected the CT clamp top and it is managing to get data, but I worry about accuracy.
I did see that the CT 400A clamps are bigger and the same 3000:1 winding ratio, but I can't seem to find them online for less than $75 each which seems wayy to expensive.
Has anyone found larger or CTs that are shaped differently that are compatible with the shelly 3000:1 expected ratio?
Hi, I have shelly plug s gen1 device, and it's getting dangerously hot. Device right now reports temperature of 91.6°C. Load connected to it is 100% resistive 1800W load - it's just a water heater. Device is supposed to support up to 2500W of power, and it draws 1800W.
I thought that my unit was off, so I swapped it to another one but it also shows high temps and it even melted near contacts tiny bit.
So what might be the problem here? It's not just one unit. Anyone has this kind of problem as well? Maybe those plugs can't really work with continuous power of 1800W? Plug is not covered or anything, ambient temp is about 22°C.
Just tried out the new Update out and i love how to switch between the Apps now, no more swiping to settings or Shelly dashboard by accident.
Are there plans to Release this Feature to the small Displays, too?
Or bring more power full small displays out, if that is the requirement?
I have purchased about 25 Shelly 1 smart switches to be installed in my house while I am having renovations done. I sat down and powered up each one, updated the firmware, configured it to connect to my wireless network, and assigned static IP addresses to each one. This way once they are installed they are all set up and ready to go. The situation I ran into is I want to keep track of which one is which IP and where it gets installed by the electrician. I ended up creating a spreadsheet numbering each one from 1 to 25 and noted the IP address assigned to each one. I had to put a piece of tape on each device with it's number so the electrician can let me know he installed #4 on the kitchen pendant lights, #10 on the back stairwell lights, etc. It would be nice if the device itself had a small area to write an IP address or a number directly on it.
There is a tiny white spot on the back under a picture of a garbage can with an x through it but it is too small to write with a sharpie marker and fit an IP address. So I have mocked up a version that includes a larger area to write in. If it had a larger area like this I could put a unit number or an IP address directly on the device. Will make it much easier keeping them organized during install and in the future if we have to do any modifications.
Home Assistant server with sonoff dongle-e, in homelab. Im setting Shelly 1pm mini mostly, working with one device at a time (connecting L/N cables, integrating to HA via zigbee and Shelly app via wifi, updating FW, disconnecting cables).
First 20ish had no issues. Then started having issues with HA not seeing new devices via zigbee.
After that, had 1 device connected to zigbee and started adding new devices via zigbee thru that already connected device.
After 30ish zigbee devices, HA can't discover new devices anymore, even with multiple early already integrated devices online.
I have like 40x1pm minis to go yet and getting frustrated. Any help please?
No matter how quickly I press the power button 5 times, it always stays blue (AP mode). What am I missing here?
I have original Uni installed in my truck under dash that connects to my iPhones hotspot. I have terrible cell service in certain areas and uni often disconnects. I have the AP setup as backup but it never shows up. Resulting in me having to dig out of dash to reset it. What’s going on?
So I picked up a Shelly S3XT-0S last year and I have six zones and this is a six zone controller. Perfect.
Except this controller has no master valve output. My fault for not reading my the specs closely…I just assumed any irrigation controller would have a pump or master valve control AND the six zones advertised.
Has anyone used another Shelly device to control that master valve separately? I know this could be dead simple to use a Shelly relay but then it’s not “integrated” into the controls in the Shelly software, and I need it to come on a few seconds before a zone valve opens and close a few seconds after a zone closes. Really didn’t want to have to stitch together automation and would rather do it all in the irrigation controller controls,.
Any input is welcome, just looking for ideas on how to make the best of this.
Hi all,
I was looking at getting some door/window sensors but i'm not 100% on if I need some sort hub or not. I'm only integrating into homeassistant, not the shelly app.
I do have a 2PM Gen4 i'm using at the moment for some lights which integrates great.
Got a new Shelly. My first one. Connected to zigbee using the 5 button press and wired up garage door. Worked great. I then thought I should put it back on wifi, update firmware and make sure default power state is off. I have done all that but I can not get it back to zigbee no matter what I try. Firmware is now 1.75 and says up to date. I thought they may have made the switch to zigbee option UI only but can’t see it. Nothing in UI and I have tried the 5 button press 100 times. What am I missing? Thanks.
