I'm a total amateur, but I need to replace a couple 15mm copper radiator pipes. This is my first attempt at soldering anything, and I wanted to ask a pro if any of these are good enough even if they're not very pretty (and haven't got any other way of asking 😅).
I'm aware I'm opening myself up to sarcasm, but I'm just trying to learn a new skill. 🙏
Hi all,
My plumber has basically said there is no need for a pressure test on a new install using soldered copper joints.
He said that if they were going to leak, they’d leak immediately. As they haven’t, there is no need for a pressure test.
What’s opinions on this from others?
My mum and dad had an install years ago, and a pressure test was done and they were told it was very important to ensure peace of mind and that the downstairs decor wouldn’t get ruined etc. So I was expecting the same but didn’t agree this when agreeing the scope.
Cheers
Edit: thanks for the responses. Clearly my misunderstanding from years ago and it’s stuck with me since.
Hi! I'm in the process of buying an Edwardian house in London. I posted here before, asking about a weird heating system (combi boiler + header tank + hot water cylinder), but now I wonder if the whole plumbing system needs updating. The seller informed me that the lead pipe connected to the mains was replaced 5 years ago, but all the rest is a mystery and probably over 35 years old at best.
I think of calling a plumber to have a look and say what they think about the whole system, like age, material of pipes and if they are narrowing because of mineral buildup.
Sorry for my ignorance, but is it a straightforward request? I mean, will a plumber be able to inspect the pipes/pressure/flow/heating system without actually lifting floorboards and such (because the house is not yet mine)?
What kind of tests are used for this kind of survey? CCTV..? I would also like to ask for estimates for replumbing etc.
What is the average cost of such an inspection in London?
Thanks a lot!
Hi all! Recently moved into a 20-year-old flat with the water cylinder and immersion like the photos. After a week moving in, I managed to get hot water after resetting the thermostat (by pushing the black/white switch). But now the water is too hot that I almost got burnt.
Questions:
How can I reduce the temperature of the water? Wasnt sure which direction and to which mark on the thermostat.
This is the timer for the immersion and I think it is timed to boil the water between 3-8 AM. Is there a way to reduce the hours to 3 hrs?
Thanks!
Digging out the old toilet waste pipe (clay) and have gotten to a long radius 90° bend that goes under a wall.
We can’t dig the bend out and replace it because it goes under a supporting wall and continues under the extension.
We can’t expose enough pipe to fit a clay to plastic coupling because it’s encased in concrete.
Any advice on what we can’t do would be appreciated because I’m at wits end with everything that’s gone wrong in this house.
Hi all, does anybody know why I keep getting this message on my Mira Shower app? It seems no matter what I do I cannot control the shower from my phone anymore. I have tried the following: turned the internet router on/off, turned my VPN off while using the app, deleted the app and reinstalled it, and used the “forget valve” option on the shower and repaired it. Nothing is working. I can’t find any options to “forget” the shower on my app either. Can anyone help me please? TIA! 😊
Hi all,
As the title says, this part broke off last night and I need to try to replace it this morning. If anyone knows what this part is called (generally or specifically), I'd be really grateful.
Thanks for reading
Edit: my issue is currently fixed thanks to both of one of the commenters here and the two very nice men down my local plumbers merchants.
Hello,
I'm in the process of buying an old house. The weird thing is that it has a combi boiler (definitely a combination boiler, as confirmed by the surveyor and the seller), but it's gravity-fed from a cold water tank in the loft (this tank also feeds the cold taps in the first-floor bathroom) and it's also attached to an immersion heater (hot water tank) in an airing cupboard.
I'm no expert at all, but aren't combi boilers mains-fed?
I would like to remove the cold water tank from the loft - can I just override the tank and connect the pipe from the mains to the pips the go to the boiler/taps?
Will it be as easy as that or will the hot water tank and other components need to be exchanged?
And how much will it cost in London?
Thanks a lot
Hi,
I am in process of moving the rad in my 1 st floor bedroom. The length of the room is 4 meter. The new rad is already hanged on the wall. I have removed all floor boards. So only thing the plumber needs to do is to install new copper pipe. I am getting following quotes in Westmidlands. Its combi boiler.
Registered Gas Boiler enginners: in circa of £300 - £500
Non registered Gas Boiler enginners: in circia of £150-£200
To me paying £300 for just installing copper pipe sounds high. Also is it advisable to go with Non gas registered enginner with this?
There is a dead gas pipe in the middle of the room (I can see its disconnected at source) but all needs to be done is instead of touching it , just need to create offset (to be safe side)
Any inputs is much appricated because my room renovation is on halt because of this.
Thanks
I have a system boiler with a cold water tank in the loft. Can I install a washing machine downstairs if its water supply comes from the loft tank rather than directly from the mains?
Can anyone advise on why this shower isn’t producing really hot water. The hot water tap next to it has really hot water but the water coming from the shower is tepid at best.
Anyone got any idea of how to fix this leak coming from the shower? Any help would be appreciated thank you!
Just stayed in a house for 4 days.
One of the showers was a mixer shower, not thermostatic.
Single control marked Cold - Hot.
On the lowest setting (cold) it was hot and turning the control went to scalding.
If it was a thermostatic shower it would have a safety stop to protect from scalding.
Are there any plumbing regulations which say you should not fit this type of shower in a holiday let?
No warning signs about very hot water.
I’m getting astronomical quotes to relocate and replace my boiler into the loft. Part of me thinks these quotes are so high is because they just don’t want to do the work.
I’m pretty hands on and have looked at the routes and I feel confident enough to get the bulk of the pipe work in myself excluding gas pipe, even bore a hole for flue and mount the boiler and install tank.
If I did the bulk of the work myself, is it possible that a plumber would just connect everything up, extend the gas pipe and commission or would most plumbers fob it off. I would add that any pipe work I install would be excluded from the contract.
I had a plumber come look at a weak flush and they replaced the siphon and installed a new donut seal. I got charged the parts and labour, which I then paid.
Fast forward a week (and the first actual use of the toilet as I was out the country after the initial work was done), I go to flush the toilet and it leaks I give the plumber a call, he said he'll come take a look. Basically, the previous donut seal that had been installed had a shit load of silicone around it and had built up such a crust that it stopped any water leaking through. After installing the new donut seal, for some reason it couldn't exactly fit the shape and when the cistern pressed on it, water would leak when it flushed. Apart from a new toilet, the short term solution by the plumber was to put silicone back around it until I'm in a position to rip the thing out
I've now been charged for another full hour of work when the reason it leaked was due to their replacement seal not doing the job it was meant to. The original problem was a weak flush, so technically it was a new problem but it wouldn't have been if the seal stayed as it was (as poor a job as it may be)
As a plumber, would you charge for this second work? Or would I be well within my rights to say that I shouldn't have to pay for this when it is technically still part of the original problem. I had already paid £270 for the first call out, and now being charged £160 which just seems ludicrous to me
Hello all,
Thames water have been useless in finding where my water supply comes in, they literally won’t turn up to help either. I have a theory I’m on a shared supply but there’s no valve for our houses if we are.
My inside stopcock is trickling through even when isolated.
Is the best method contacting a plumber to freeze it and install a new stopcock, or letting them do it live?
I want to get rid of my lead water pipe coming in but that seems like ages away. I can’t even get a new pipe installed as I don’t know where in the street my supply comes in. Thames water have dug once and couldn’t find it and haven’t done anything since. I’m at wits end as I want to do plumbing works and renovate my house!!!
Am slightly at sea with the terminology/meaning of shower valves. If using something like this (C.P. Hart Arc Thermostatic Three Outlets Triple Control Shower Valve), am I understanding the user experience correctly?
Top dial = water flow for primary outlet
Middle dial = water temperature
Bottom dial = water flow for further 2 outlets? How does that work; Anti-clockwise for one, clockwise for the other?
Thanks
Hi, hoping for some advice please.
Currently have an electric shower which leaks (constant drip from showerhead) and likely needs replaced, the model has been discontinued so can't swap like for like and the pipework is behind a tiled wall. Also replacement has to be compatible with a whale drain pump. Will this be difficult to install a new shower? Any advice is most welcome, thanks!