r/knittingadvice

Hey guys! I am planning on knitting the Sol Top by Mochi Knits and I don’t think my gauge swatch is correct and I’m unsure what to do. I have substituted the yarn for the quince and Co. linen that’s in fingering weight so I was holding it double. The recommended yarn was a DK linen. I was using 3.5 mm needles. You can see that I essentially make gauge for the width of the project before the length I am way over the gauge is supposed to be 26 stitches by 40 rows blocked to 10 cm or 4 inches. The yarn was pretty hard to knit with because it was quite stiff so I really don’t think going down a needle size would be correct. Even after blocking my swatch , I don’t feel like it is super soft and drappy but it is linen so I think with a few washes it could become softer. Or should I increase my needle size for better drape? I was going to originally knit in a size large to accommodate for my bust which is around 96 cm or 37 1/2 inches but should I size down instead? I’m kind of stuck between increasing my needle size for Better drape although I think the linen could soften versus sizing down because the length of the best could be very long if I followed the pattern. I’m just looking for some advice. This would be the second top I’ve ever knitted after the camisole number 10. Thank you guys!

Hi! I found some circular needles while thrifting and decided i wanted to make a beanie with no pattern only hopes and dreams
After ruining it i tried again but i still cant seem to do the decreases at the top without the beanie bunching in ridges 🥲
Needles are 5.5mm, i did 100 stitches then put a marker every 10 stitches and started decreasing right before the marker by k2tog
The photo is not showing it properly but it looks like a butthole 🫣

I put a 2” HBD in this top with self striping yarn. I had a choice between pattern continuity and better fit, and I chose fit, even though I knew it would look odd. Not sure that was the right choice, even though the fit is perfect. Now I’m debating frogging it and working the body straight. What would you do if you were me? My current plan is to finish the purple sequence and try it on and decide at that point if I can live with it, or if I can live with a less than perfect fit with pretty stripes! I know the answer to this question is highly individual, but I would love to know what you would do in my place.

Hi friends :) I am knitting the Sabai top. Before the yellow line, I was knitting from one side to the other (one row knit, next purl) and after the yellow line I go in rounds. The knitting looks a bit different in between and I wanted to know if it’s a tension situation that will be solved after blocking or I am doing something wrong. Thank you SO much in advance (L)

(English is not my first language so apologies for any errors)

Hi everyone! I’m a newer knitter and I started knitting the Cloud Sweater using Cascade 220 Superwash held with KFO mohair (70% mohair / 30% silk). I didn’t realize until after buying the yarn that superwash wool can stretch a lot after blocking and wear 😅.

I know a lot of people recommend putting superwash garments in the dryer to help them bounce back, but since I’m holding it with mohair, I definitely don’t want to machine dry it.

Has anyone made the Cloud Sweater (or another fluffy sweater) with superwash wool + mohair together? Did it stretch a ton over time or did the mohair help stabilize it? I’m trying to decide if I should keep going or return the yarn before I get too far.

For reference, I’m knitting at 17 sts / 10 cm on 4.5 mm needles and my fabric doesn’t seem super loose (without blocking as shown in the pic).

Would love to hear experiences or advice from anyone who has used superwash + mohair together!

I am looking for a pattern similar to this jumper (or cropped, but still with dropped stitches. I am planning to use brushed alpaca (Du Store Alpakka - faerytale) which has suggested gauge of 18 stitches to 10cm on 4.5mm needles - but it’s very fluffy and I am planning to use a much larger needle. Whilst I am I’ve been knitting for 20+ years now, I haven’t knit with brushed alpaca nor have I drafted my own patterns before. I don’t want to end up with something that grows far too large and I’m not very sure about dropped stitch and other “distressing” knitting techniques.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to a similar pattern? I have searched both ravelry and Pinterest and only found ready made acrylic jumpers.

This is the Anker summer tee by Petite Knit in Drops Belle. I have a couple of these stains, are they soap stains and can they be removed? If not, will dyeing it help or will it just show through? Thanks!

Ok so my pattern ask for a gauge of 18 stitches on size 8 needles.

Edit: I've done 6 swatches over the last few days trying to get gauge.

Size 2.5 = 14 stitches

Size 3 = 16 stitches

Size 4 = 20 stitches

Size 5 = 20 stitches

Size 6 = 21 stitches

I've done three swatches, even though my yarn has a recommended gauge of 20 stitches on size 6 needles I go 20 stitches on size 4 needles, Then 16 stitches on size 3 needles and 14 stitches on size 2.5 needles.

I'm going crazy and can't figure out what is happening.

If anyone can give me advice on my swatches and how to get my pattern gauge then I'd be greatful thanks.

Here's the link to the pattern I want to make: https://www.originallylovely.com/blogs/knitting-archive/simple-summer-tank-top-knitting-pattern

I’m working on the Prairie Rose Pullover by Endaknits as my first colorwork project. I’m learning a lot as I go which is great but I think my floats may be way too tight causing the bunching? I also think I need to move to a longer cable so my stitches aren’t all bunched up. From looking at the pattern this part is supposed to go over your shoulders and it seems tiny?? I think my only hope is to frog and start again but is there anywhere I’m going super wrong and need to correct next time?

I want to make this bag for my daughter and I have knit a ton of sweaters and socks and consider myself experienced but this pattern is stumping me. I started on the Bottom section. I am using the exact needle the pattern called for, a 24” 2.25mm. I created the bottom 22 rows and then picked up the 11st on each side of the bottom portion but when I start to work in the round, the needles end up being parallel and in a position where I can’t use them. Am I doing something wrong? I love the idea of working this colorwork in the round but I feel like I am getting off on the wrong foot! I appreciate any help! Thanks

I’m redoing my Frankie sweater yoke with a larger needle and pictured is the original version. I had moved the color change to be the second stitch within the raglan stitches, because I was having trouble on rows when the color change coincided with the raglan increase rows. For jogless stripes I was using the lifted/elongated stitch technique. I don’t love the jagged appearance of the right (back) side compared to the normal left side one. I’m wondering if folks have advice for where I can place the color change so that it’s less obvious. Would moving it to like the second stitch after the raglan stitches be better?

Hi there! I'm finally to the sleeves of this sweater and am so confused. How do I pick up stitches from the center without leave a gap? Am I going to regret just knitting from the edge of the underarm?

Also... I'm doing this with a magic loop (I'm making a baby sweater so need super tiny arms). If anyone has any tips or considerations for this process with the magic loop in mind let me know. Thank you!!

I'm making the Coline sweater by Audrey Borrego, and I'm confused about something in the comments.

On some other people's project notes, they mention doing a YO on the row before the M1 increase to reduce puckering. I have looked through all the projects and can't really find what this refers to. My swatch turned out beautifully after blocking, all puckering just melted away and my floats are long enough. My yarn seems quite forgiving.

Can someone clarify what this might mean? Do I do a YO every time a M1 appears in the pattern in the row above?

https://ravel.me/coline-3