r/loghomes

I would really appreciate any advice on the best way to safely reach second story windows under a walk out basement with significant land sloping. Last fall, a contractor rented a monster lift to do staining, sealing, and chinking on our log home. The weather got too cold and we ran out of time to get the windows chinked and sealed, and touch up the trim. We are DIYers within our scope and abilities and can easily do the work. Is there a scaffolding unit or other options what would allow us to get up there and get this project wrapped up (after we get the deck refinish job completed). After all the damage the lift did around the house, that is not an option again. Thank you in advance!

This log cabin was put up about 1.5 yrs ago. I’ve since put internal stud walls inside (not attached to the walls but screwed into the purlins and floor) insulated it and attached 1 layer of heavy sound proofing plasterboard. It gets lots of sunlight and over the course of the sunlight and recently large gaps have appeared and twisting mostly in this corner. I’m starting to freak out that the cabin is on the verge of collapse. I’m wondering about clamping a bit of straight wood to this area to straighten out the warping. Can someone advise what I should do please? Any help much appreciated!

*edit - building bought from Dunster House

Overhangs are important. But even those cant save the logs with a slot or tongues on that run the water back. Or those flat top logs. In the pictures shown...a D log,with slotteed wind seal and flat top. You can see the damage 40 years later. Isnt it funny, we overlap shingles,siding, flashing yet when they build a log home they just plop one row on top of another. Best you can do for now is close those dado slots.

OK so for this "overhang fixes all that"?? Not really. side driven wind driven rain accounts for 20% of all rain fall.

So...heres the math:

1 inch rain 25154 gallons per acre

43560 ft in a acre

Thats .62 gallons per inch (per year)

In NYs where I am..we get 50 inches..which is 31 gallons per sq foot (per year)

A 2000 sq feet home (footprint) then gets 62,000 gallons per year

20% of which is wind blown..or about 15,500 gallons..hitting the sides...regardless of overhangs!!\

which is why I think a swedish cope, or a manufactured log with a drip lip....will last far longer with far less rot.

And i actually fix and restore log homes (Ny,Nj,Pa,Ct,Vt,NH)...so i get to see first hand what works what does not.

redcloverbuilders@faccebook.com

Never knew my mortal enemy would be carpenter bees but hey how did my refinish come out? Just got the stain on today.

This is my garage. I'm working on the house now.

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I had to grind off everything. It had been 7-8 years of no care. I used Energy Seal from Permachink to repair any checks, vertical lines and as caulking for all board separations.

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Stain was 2 coats of Permachink Lifeline Ultra 2 Sequoia and one coat of Permachink Lifeline Advanced clear coat.

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Rock siding will be fixed someday!

Hi folks, long story short- I have this log cabin on some property and am wondering where to get started. Would love to make this into something, but wow it looks rough. Any advice would be super helpful. Sorry about the quality of the photos.

The bottom log end has some rot, its not all the way through the log.

I think it was from splash-back from the deck from previously missing/poorly functioning gutters above. AFAIK, the source problem is no longer an issue.

I will be getting the walls stained soon, and I wanted to fix this before. Not looking for the "perfect" solution, just something "good enough" that, hopefully, I can do myself. Thanks.

1996 build. Red Pine. South-eastern Quebec

I have a leak inside and on the porch under this former. Thoughts ideas fixes? Don't want to tear it apart. There is flashing under the shingles at the seam