I had a 6 day stay for school, stayed 2 nights as we thought it was mosquitos biting us.

by day 2 found 20-30 cockroaches in our food and all around the house, and realized these were bed bugs eating us alive once we found their bodies.

left immediately once we realized what was happening, air bnb said they’d find us a place, they didn’t said there were no options, so they told us to go to a hotel and we’d be reimbursed.

so we went to literally the cheapest hotel we could find, 2 rooms 2000$ CAD plus paid for a car decontaminatio/steam cleaning 275$ and 75$ in laundry fees to bake everything we had immediately whatever we didn’t throw out.

okay so air bnb would not refund untill we checked out and submitted receipts, we are back home now and airbnb says they’ll give us 450$…. that’s after escalation higher 3 times….

what on earth, what am I supposed to do? i expected a 2400 refund not 450…

that’s it I want tires that are as comfy as my stock 32s on my Toyota, but I want them taller and as comfy or comfier, no other requirements. what are my options 👀

dont think any of these half genius ideas that use the car itself to support the table are going to work for me, just looking for your favourite, not too cheapy, but not too massive and waste of space, tall enough folding table that I can setup as fast as possible with minimal pieces.

I got an fj cruiser and just want to be able to pull over and have a table yknow, using my tailgate for something else so those tailgate tables aren’t the best for me

am I wasting my money if I buy an OTW shirt right now? haven’t seen this new uniform but will the pattern be the same as the MT or whatever(or similar I know a lot of the aftermarket ones are close but not the same as MT CADPAT) ? or different from that still? materials sound like they will be different though, idk if that’s a factor?

brand new envy 6052e used for like 8 prints ever, and now after someone put a regular thick lined piece of paper in it, it seems to work 1000% fine no errors on the app or whatever, but everything that comes out is blank pages

I made another post about my full JL system C3 front, C2 coax rear, TW3 10, RX 700/5, and a 1000$ android headunit. Installed by a shop. And it fatigues my ears, and overall just doesn’t sound right and can’t crank it without pain.

The consensus in my other post seemed to be I need a DSP and a good tune. Found an installer couple hours from me that seems very experienced and they want to charge (CAD) 1690 + tax with a helix mini dsp and install. Says it will take all day.

I think that’s fairly fair, but I know that helix mini DSP isn’t cheap, do I need to pay for that big boy? I’ve read it does a lot for integrating to OEM systems, and all that complex stuff, I just need it to work with my aftermarket system.

Should I just go with this? Or is there a cheaper equipment piece that will do the same for what I want?

I see there’s this cool conductor thing idk if I really need that but does sound like it could be handy, but I don’t want that to be the deciding factor even if I might get it if I go helix.

Thanks!

hello, I recently had a pro shop install JL 6.5 C3 up front in my Toyota FJ cruiser, and JL 6 inch C2 coax in the rear. as well as JL TW3 10 in the back in a subthump enclosure. powered by a JL XD 700/5

it replaced the factory JBL premium system, and while it sounds better and definitely wayyyy more powerful… I feel like the sounds I want to hear I have to turn it up very loud to fully enjoy it, but as soon as I do I quickly fatigue.

I feel like this is a tuning or EQ issue.

honestly first time spending this kind of money eh in a full setup like this, and seemed like the best I could get before I jump to a 100% in double to triple the money all the way job.

its good but… if I could go back right now… if just stick with stock… this is not worth the money right now… my biggest orignal complaint was muddy bass from stock, which is the biggest improvement I have, aside from that the extra power I don’t need, and the SQ is debatably worse… and I feel it’s EQ problem any advice?

I played with muting certain band frequencie, and did notice less fatigue by dropping many of them which was nice but when I compared to baseline EQ I realized it sounded like shit and actually STILL fatigued more than I liked… even after heavy dropping. I feel that I can listen on volume 12for ex max w out ever fatiguing, but above that fatigue sets in faster at each volume level. However with muting a ton of frequencies I was able to listen at literally 32 without issue untill I started to fatigued after maybe 10 songs. so what I’m saying is I feel the rest of the EQ I feel I can cranm as I SHOULD be able to, but there’s a part of it that fully limits me from doing so…

ive got probably 30 hours on the sub and C2 and 15 hours on the C3s. Any help 🥹 idk what to do, was hoping instead of tackling car audio on my own for once I’d pay a pro and it’s great quality install but… mehhhhh

been looking at getting my 2012 Toyota truck restored underneath as good as I can, found a place called OVC inc in Beeton ON, but not as many good reviews as I’d like, I want something like a famous place called garden state undercoating in the US.

theres honey seal, but they say their process isn’t meant for 200,000km plus,

a bad review for OVC inc said there was a better place in Mississauga so I’m looking for leads in that, any ideas what place?

looking for a full underbody restore service, remove all the rust, and re finish and protect kinda deal, on a 300,000 km vehicle.

ive seen a. very famous place called garden state undercoating in the US, that does exactly this, ive also seen a place in Beeton ON, but i dont see as many reviews as I’d like.

are there any other options? there’s honeyseal too, but they don’t seem to cater towards 200,000+ km cars.

hey I have this ESR 100$ CAD keyboard case for my IPad Pro M2, and it totally perfect fit and form and battery is awesome. but the connection suckssss for typing, it’s do able but when you have to type fast it’s no good as it does not accept double input of the same key, and can lag behind a little when fast typing.

ive seen the apple magic keyboards for decent prices open box on amazon for like 250 CAD which is fine tbh, but I don’t like that they don’t have a case built in like my ESR does, anyone have any smooth aftermarket recommendations?

I have a gas pressure washer I’ve had forever, says 3800 PSI on it.

I bought a new foam cannon (first one I’ve had) and halfway through the wash it starts getting sucked in on itself and like imploding.

I read PSI too high can maybe cause this? but… I can’t find a single foam cannon rated over 3000 psi, just ones that say 3000 for the foam cannon and 4000 for the “gun“ attachment but what’s the point in that if the cannon itself can only handle 3k :/

managed to sort out all my issues with static and everything else.

i turned down my input sensitivity on my amp and this lowered the static.

but i cannot figure out how to get CarPlay working, it actually worked at first… but then stopped working… first the wireless stopped working then the wired stopped working as well… super weird… any ideas why?

on the zlink screenit just sits there when I click on CarPlay, it never does anything , I’ve rebooted it like 10x and updated it with the 6490 2000x1200 upgrade package from johing.

bluetooth works fine.

pls help 😞