u/Accomplished-Bowl551

This lil PSA .300 B/O is about to get some upgrades. I have a Dead Air Nomad L and Q Trash Panda on the way. I'm not sure what one will live on this gun but either way I'm going to need a new barrel / handguard or both. (Don't judge my suppressor choices. I had to take what's in stock considering what's going on and having a local FFL that will do a Form 4473 for them.)

I reload so I don't mind having this be a sun-sonic only gun. Is a 1:5 twist the way to go? I'm just getting worried about baffle strikes. With a 1:5 twist is shooting a 125gr supersonic an absolute no-no or is google making me trip out for nothing? I have tons of Speer TnT 125gr supers loaded up because pre suppressor that's what this gun lives on. Again, I'm cool with not shooting those after the suppressor I just want to know.

I have a bunch of Berry's 220gr to load up when I get my suppressors. Berry's says max FPS with 1:5 is 1000 fps while 1:7 is 1300 fps. This kind of worries me too...

I'm the type of person who will research a toothbrush for 2 hours. Talk sense into me please.

My little brother is graduating from the Naval academy and I booked tickets for me and the family to go see the ceremony. The military had other plans and pushed the date back with 5 days of notice. According to google I should have the ability to reschedule or get AA credit with a $99 cancelation fee but according to AA I'm just screwed out of 4 airline tickets.

For further context, I purchased the tickets through Capital One because I had $600 in points. I called their customer service yesterday and they made it seem like it was no big deal and they would give me a full refund in the form on Capital One points on my CC. It seemed too easy so I called again today to verify and of course they couldn't find anything in their system and said no refund was in place. I purposely withheld the case number for about an hour. When they gave up I finally gave them the case number I was provided. They then informed me that the refund request was simply escalated and they would have an answer in about 10 days. That does me no good since the flight in in 3 and I don't have any hopes for a refund because they said multiple times that these tickets are non refundable.

At this point my only hope is AA customer service. I called them and the wait time is 2 hours... I opted for the call back. I have 0 hope that they will do anything since I purchased the tickets through Cap One Travel.

The worst part is I now have to purchase tickets again for the newly rescheduled Navy graduation. I would like to see my little brother before he gets shipped off. I'm going to be financially drained after this but I guess there's not a price you can put on seeing a brother considering anything could happen overseas.

Is there anything else I can try?

Is there a way to test if the issue is the fan vs circuit board?

I started printing PLA after not printing any PLA for a long time. I have one toolhead that cannot get past 1st layer without getting a heat soak clog. I've been printing ASA for a while so I didn't notice before but it might explain the never ending first layer inconsistencies I've has with ASA.

Is there a logical reason why I can't do this? Currently the only way to change brim filament is to edit plate settings and change the filament print order. I need to print the white first but brim clean up would be so much better if I could still have the brim be black. No to mention that the brim would probably function better if it printed with the border instead of cooling before bonding.

One year into 3D printing and I'm still amazed every time. This is my first time printing at a 45 degree angle and the first time I have used PETG as an interface with ASA.

The entire back side of this part was supported with PETG as the interface and the finish is better than most top layers. I'm absolutely astonished at the finish on this part.

For those wondering this part was screwed onto my RV door. There's a lever that flips into the open slot to hold the door open. The orignal had ripped out. I oversized the new one to cover existing holes and give it more leverage.

My only regret is that I used a throw away ASA color assuming this print would take multiple attempts.

Would anyone with a bone stock printer.cfg file please tell me what the default z-offset is set to on all extruders?

I changed mine a long time ago and cannot find in the wiki what the default settings were. I just realized you can change this in Snorca now.

Also my printer.cnf is showing...

E0 Z-offset -.05

e1 Z-offset 0

E2 Z-offset 0

E3 Z-offset 0

I know I set the all the same so I'm not sure why it changed itself but I do notice in my current multicolor prints that E0 is the color I'm having an issue with and the other extruders are printing perfectly.

Thanks for your help

I'm trying to basically chamfer from the blue rectangle to the 6MM high border around this object.

I'm playing around with the sweep and loft tool but can't quite figure out how to make it go in multiple directions. There's gotta be a way right?

ASA print at 100c bed temp. I think I screwed up

Thankfully, I've seen other post here with people putting tape on the prime tower to try and save their print. Pray for me U1 people.

I'll be looking into alternatives to having PETG and PLA in the same prime tower moving forward.

If anyone is interested, it actually happened after removing the enclosure lid due to toolhead 3 having a docking error that I had to manually fix. Also a first, I'll run the toolhead calibration after this print.

I use federal HST for my EDC. I have a good collection of nickel plated brass and one day I want to make some fancy no expense spared carry ammo.

What is the blue sealant they put around the primer? Also can you put it around the rim of the jacket to really seal everything up?

I'm sure somone here has already done this. What worked best and what supplies do I need to buy?

Can somone who has PETG dialed in on their U1 post filament settings for me please?

Basically I've calibrated my settings for PETG multiple times. I have specifically done flow rate and PA over 6 times each and I always get the same results. However, my real world prints are very over extruded. At this point I'm skipping the calibration tools and in Orca I've made a primitive disk a few MM tall with "A U" text cut into it. I'm getting better results at about .90 Flow Rate. It just seems really low.

I would love to compare my settings to somone else and see if there's anything that really stands out about my settings.

Thanks!