In this case, I think the back and forth lasted for around 15-20 turns. I don't know if there's a limit to how long No Repeats goes on for, but that's the longest I've seen it go for at least. I'm curious if any of you had it last longer than that.
(also, the character in this clip is Miriam from Wandersong for anyone who's curious)
Give a tech savvy person an expensive gaming PC and it'll be love at first sight for them; I should know.
(also, characters here are Hat Kid from A Hat in Time, and Maria Robotnik from Sonic the Hedgehog for those who are curious)
I don't know how many people here played the game Wii Play growing up, but I did quite a bit, and the Tanks game was always one of my favorite mini games to play there.
Ever since I got a Steam Deck, I've experimented with using the right trackpad for Wii pointer controls in the Dolphin emulator every now and then, and eventually started doing so with the Steam Controller when I got it. Tanks honestly feels like a perfect fit for this controller.
EDIT: Might as well share how exactly I mapped the controls in both Dolphin and Steam Input for anyone who'd like to try this themselves. Do note that these controls are specifically configured for the Tanks mini game, so your mileage may vary on if they'll work well in other Wii games.
A: A Button
B: R2
Minus: Select
Plus: Start
Map the d-pad directions to the Steam Controller d-pad directions.
Set the extension to Nunchuck if it isn't like that already (set extension to None if you'd prefer to use the d-pad for movement).
Map and Calibrate the Nunchuck's stick to the Steam Controller's left analog stick in the Extension tab if you have it enabled.
C: L1
Z: L2
Enable "Mouse Controlled Pointing" in Motion Simulation
Vertical Offset: 28.00 cm
Total Yaw: 13.50
Total Pitch: 13.50
In Steam Input, set the right trackpad behavior to "as mouse," and adjust the sensitivity to your liking. And also map the trackpad click to a button of your choosing. I personally mapped the click to the A button for placing down mines.
And after the controls are all set up, I'd also recommend on Dolphin to going to Config, then Interface, and setting Mouse Cursor Visibility to Never so you don't see your mouse cursor on the screen hovering over the Wii pointer, though I'd still keep the cursor on while you're setting up the controls just to make sure the pointer and mouse cursor are lined up correctly.
Also, make sure you have Dolphin added to your Steam library and launch the app through there in order to properly map the controls.
I got a Steam Controller somewhat recently, and I've been messing around with it in terms of controlling Wii Play on Dolphin. I mainly use it for the Tanks mini game since I set up a control method that uses the right trackpad as the Wii pointer for shooting, but I have also been trying to see if I can make the Steam Controller work for the other mini games as well, and possibly use the Steam Controller as an all-in-one controller for the game.
Billiards, Fishing, and Charge are ones I'm ignoring for now since those require motion controls, which I'm sure I could get working but I'm not bothering with it at the moment. And Shooting Range, Find Mii, Table Tennis, and Charge already work fine enough with the controls I set up for Tanks. Though the two I'd want to get working in a specific way but I wouldn't know how to go about it are Pose Mii and Laser Hockey
With those two mini games, they require you to twist/rotate the Wii remote to change the position of the pointer. And there were a couple ideas I had in mind for how I'd map these to a controller, specifically by making the right analog stick be able to rotate the Wii pointer. The two ideas I had in mind were to either continuously spin the stick clockwise or counter-clockwise to rotate the cursor left or right kind of like a scroll wheel, or more preferably by pressing a direction on the stick to immediately have the pointer snap to that position, such as if I held right and the pointer would snap/rotate right in the same position I'm holding it.
I'd be curious if I'd actually be able to do this though. I haven't really experimented with more intricate control methods like this in Dolphin aside from just being able to make the pointer move with a mouse, so I don't know how simple or difficult it would be to set something like that up. I know you can do a lot of heavy customization with Dolphin's controls (and there's also Steam Input in my case since I'm using a Steam Controller), so if anyone happens to know how I'd be able to map twisting the Wii pointer to movements on the right analog stick, feel free to tell me how.
And I also just discovered while doing this that you're limited to buying 999 food items at once when visiting the market
I'm not sure how many others feel the same way, but while I of course enjoy seeing random Miis I have of existing characters interacting and becoming friends, there's always something that feels a bit special seeing said characters who are from the same franchise/group bonding and growing closer.
In my eyes, it's probably been one of the most rewarding aspects of creating an island consisting primarily of characters from a lot of different video games I like. Many of these characters are friends canonically, and seeing them get to that point in Tomodachi is kind of heartwarming, especially if I manage to get them all to live in the same house.
(also, for anyone who's wondering, these groups of characters in order are from Earthbound, Poke ALL Toads, Puyo Puyo, Rhythm Heaven, and my two existing OCs and their children)
Character is Hilda from the Hildafolk graphic novel series for those wondering, though her design here is based on how she looks in the Netflix animated series.
I primarily tried to draw around her eyes while using the oval eye option as her pupils so I could make her look accurate while still emoting properly. And I forgot that the least favorite food scene doesn't remote face paint, so she's just left there with blank/empty eyes.
I recently found a used Oculus Rift CV1 at a thrift shop, and it was confirmed to be working according to the sticker. Though when trying to go through the Meta Link setup process for it on my Acer Nitro V laptop, the headset and the sensors do register on the app, and the audio on the headset works, but the display itself is just blank.
When searching around, this apparently seems to be a common issue when using this headset. But more importantly, when asking about this on the Oculus subreddit, someone mentioned to me that it's apparently not possible to get wired VR headsets to work on a laptop without a mux switch to change the HDMI output, which the Nitro V doesn't have as far as I know.
I wanted to know if this was actually true. I don't actually have any experience with using VR headsets so I didn't know that getting them to work on laptops would be kind of finicky like this. It wouldn't be a huge loss either way since I only paid about $30 for the complete headset, but I just wanted to know if this specific headset could work either way, or if the black screen issue may be caused by something else.
The laptop itself has an Intel CPU with an iGPU in it (specifically an i7-13620H) which is linked to the main laptop display and also the Thunderbolt/USB-C port on the laptop, and also an NVIDIA GPU (specifically an RTX 4050) which is linked to the HDMI port on the laptop. I'd want to know if this kind of CPU, GPU, and HDMI configuration is actually able to run VR with this sort of setup, not in terms of ideal performance but just getting the headset to work at all.
I'll also point out that, once again, this blank screen issue is apparently a common thing for the Rift CV1, and I did try other supposed solutions to fix it, though none of them seemed to work from my testing. But I'll mention what I tried anyway just in case people happen to suggest them:
If anyone happens to know of any other potential fixes for this blank display issue on the Rift CV1 or if the Acer Nitro V laptop I have is even able to use the headset, feel free to let me know.
Laptop specs in case they're needed:
Acer Nitro V15 running Windows 11
Intel i7-13620H (iGPU is connected to the internal display and the Thunderbolt port)
NVIDIA RTX 4050 (which the HDMI port on the laptop is connected to)
32 GBs DDR5 RAM
1080p 144Hz display
I recently found a used Oculus Rift CV1 at a thrift shop, and it was confirmed to be working according to the sticker. Though when trying to go through the Meta Link setup process for it on my Acer Nitro V laptop, the headset and the sensors do register on the app, and the audio on the headset works, but the display itself is just blank.
When searching around, this apparently seems to be a common issue when using this headset. But more importantly, when asking about this on the Oculus subreddit, someone mentioned to me that it's apparently not possible to get wired VR headsets to work on a laptop without a mux switch to change the HDMI output, which the Nitro V doesn't have as far as I know.
I wanted to know if this was actually true. I don't actually have any experience with using VR headsets so I didn't know that getting them to work on laptops would be kind of finicky like this. It wouldn't be a huge loss either way since I only paid about $30 for the complete headset, but I just wanted to know if this specific headset could work either way, or if the black screen issue may be caused by something else.
As the title says, the laptop has an Intel CPU with an iGPU in it (specifically an i7-13620H) which is linked to the main laptop display and also the Thunderbolt/USB-C port on the laptop, and also an NVIDIA GPU (specifically an RTX 4050) which is linked to the HDMI port on the laptop. I'd want to know if this kind of CPU, GPU, and HDMI configuration is actually able to run VR with this sort of setup, not in terms of ideal performance but just getting the headset to work at all.
I'll also point out that, once again, this blank screen issue is apparently a common thing for the Rift CV1, and I did try other supposed solutions to fix it, though none of them seemed to work from my testing. But I'll mention what I tried anyway just in case people happen to suggest them:
If anyone happens to know of any other potential fixes for this blank display issue on the Rift CV1 or if the Acer Nitro V laptop I have is even able to use the headset, feel free to let me know.
Laptop specs in case they're needed:
Acer Nitro V15 running Windows 11
Intel i7-13620H (iGPU is connected to the internal display and the Thunderbolt port)
NVIDIA RTX 4050 (which the HDMI port on the laptop is connected to)
32 GBs DDR5 RAM
1080p 144Hz display
I recently found a used Oculus Rift CV1 at a thrift shop, and it was confirmed to be working according to the sticker. Though when trying to go through the Meta Link setup process for it on my Nitro V laptop, the headset and the sensors do register on the app, and the audio on the headset works, but the display itself is just blank.
When searching around, this apparently seems to be a common issue when using this headset. But more importantly, when asking about this on the Oculus subreddit, someone mentioned to me that it's apparently not possible to get wired VR headsets to work on a laptop without a mux switch to change the HDMI output, which the Nitro V doesn't have as far as I know.
I wanted to know if this was actually true. I don't actually have any experience with using VR headsets so I didn't know that getting them to work on laptops would be kind of finicky like this. It wouldn't be a huge loss either way since I only paid about $30 for the complete headset, but I just wanted to know if this specific headset could work either way, or if the black screen issue may be caused by something else.
I'll also point out that, once again, this blank screen issue is apparently a common thing for the Rift CV1, and I did try other supposed solutions to fix it, though none of them worked. But I'll mention what I tried anyway just in case people happen to suggest them:
I recently found a used Oculus Rift CV1 at a thrift shop, and it was confirmed to be working according to the sticker. Though when trying to go through the Meta Link setup process for it, the headset and the sensors do register on the app, and the audio on the headset works, but the display itself is just blank.
When searching around, this apparently seems to be a common issue when using this headset, so I'll go over what I tried already:
I'm not sure what else to try. My only other guesses would be that it's either something to do with me using a laptop, or because newer versions of the Meta Link app don't properly support a headset this old. And I would try an older version of the app, but I'm not sure how I'd go about downloading that since you can only get the newest version on the Meta website.
If anyone happens to know any other solutions I could try, feel free to tell me.
Laptop specs in case they're needed:
Acer Nitro V15 running Windows 11
Intel i7-13620H
NVIDIA RTX 4050 (and the HDMI port on the laptop is connected to it)
32 GBs DDR5 RAM
1080p 144Hz display
I just decided to try this out of curiosity with my Miis of Madeline and Badeline from Celeste, since the house Madeline lives in was close to full and Badeline is married to someone else, so they probably couldn't have both moved in to Madeline's home. And doing this resulted in Madeline and Badeline both not living together, but still being registered as relatives after the news report.
So I guess if there's Miis you all have that you set to be related but don't actually want them to live together, you can do this yourselves as well, assuming the attempt to move in was successful to begin with.
(also, I know Madeline and Badeline aren't technically relatives canonically, but I set them as such since Badeline is basically the personification of Madeline's negative traits and is directly linked to her, so I figured it fit)
Ever since I got the Steam Controller, I primarily used it with the puck connected to my docked Steam Deck, and on my laptop either wired or connected to Bluetooth.
A few days ago, I removed the controller from Bluetooth on my laptop, and tried to connect it that way to my Steam Deck temporarily, but for some reason, it doesn't show up there, and it no longer shows up on my laptop either despite connecting perfectly fine the first time. And the controller still connects just fine with the puck or when wired, so at the moment, Bluetooth just doesn't work on the controller on either my Steam Deck or my laptop. The controller can still enter Bluetooth pairing mode, but it just doesn't show up on the device lists on either PC I try.
Has anyone else dealt with this sort of Bluetooth issue on the Steam Controller before? I would like to know if there's a way to fix it, since I still want to use the controller through Bluetooth throughout the future. If anyone else has encountered this issue, feel free to let me know.
I surprisingly haven't seen a ton of people have Miis of Puyo Puyo characters in Tomodachi, even with how many characters the franchise has had over the years. So over the past few months I've been playing LTD, I decided to make some myself, specifically Arle, Amitie, Ringo, Sig, and Ms. Accord.
I really like how they turned out overall! It was pretty time consuming for me to make them at times, especially since I had to do almost all of their clothing from scratch, but I'd say the end results were worth it. Though Sig specifically looks slightly off from his original design, since he normally has a red arm and a red eye, but I couldn't properly implement those.
Hopefully you all like how they look!
I recently got one of my large houses to have 8 Miis in it, and the first time I see them do this table event, they all end up picking the same Mii. I've only really seen this happen in houses with 2 or 3 Miis in them and not super commonly. I'd imagine it would be extremely rare odds for 8 Miis to all pick the same one if it's actually random, so I assume it's a more common or at least not as rare thing to happen if you have 8 Miis?
(also, it's kind of ironic that they all picked Busy Fairy from Poke ALL Toads as being the chatterbox, when she's arguably the least chatty and enthusiastic fairy in the game.
This isn't really a concerning/detrimental bug or anything, I just though it was funny.
I assume this happened because Livia was trying to go behind Nurse Joy to follow her, but she couldn't because Miis always face the person they're pointing a flashlight towards, which resulted in Livia clipping into Nurse Joy when trying to go behind her.
(and no, this has nothing to do with Chara specifically in this case. I'd find it kind of creepy no matter which Mii is doing it)
Yes this does make it a bit confusing when I see two Miis refer to them by different names, but I find it funny more than anything
I've had an original GBA for a very long time that I barely use, mainly because I use a DS Lite for GBA games, and the condition of the GBA isn't great, so I was thinking of modding it so I could get more use out of it.
I've specifically been paying attention to the FunnyPlaying M2 backlight kit. It seems easy to work with as someone who doesn't often mod systems, isn't super expensive, and most importantly doesn't require soldering. I don't have a soldering kit and likely don't plan to get one anytime soon, so I wanted to make sure I could get a mod kit that didn't require any soldering, which the FunnyPlaying kit can do with a touch sensor.
So for anyone who has done the FunnyPlaying mod on the GBA, how would you describe your experiences with using it?
Is the screen quality/brightness overall better than something like a DS Lite or GBA SP 101? Were there any noticeable issues that came with it, whether it's through the installation process, screen issues, and most notably the touch sensor? I've often heard that the sensor has problems of activating on it's own, and I want to know if this is a super common issue that I should prepare for and how to prevent it from happening.
I'd hope that there wouldn't be too many issues since the kit all together seems like a fun and simple project to work with, and I'd love to get more use out of my GBA because of it.
Pretty much whenever I play Tomodachi Life each day, I feed all of my Miis and a lot of them are past level 20, so I have quite a bit of gold and silver coins saved up. But I only realized recently when I checked how many I had that you can only have up to 99 coins each, and if a Mii gives you one when you're maxed out on them already, they don't get added and said coin is gone.
Basically, if you know you level up your Miis a lot and keep getting coins, don't forget to check how many you have every now and then, and sell some before they get to 99. That's basically free money that you're missing out on otherwise, and it's often easy for me to forget to sell them and they end up getting wasted.