u/CactusHoarder

I'm going into my second year at my off-campus student apartment. It is furnished with a full XL bed-frame and a hard mattress. I got really used to my Purple mattress at home again over the Summer, so I think I should get a topper this semester. Do you have any product recommendations? Or even alternatives?

No styrafoam/memory foam - I bought a styrafoam topper last year, but it gave me a "nails on chalkboard" feeling with every tiny move. Otherwise, my top priority is that it isn't too hot. I'd like it to be machine wash/dry, but that is optional. My budget isn't hard set, but I absolutely won't spend more than $500, would prefer to be under $200, and would be happiest under/around $100.

There is not space in my room to bring my queen size bed from home, and I'd rather not have to deal with buying a new set and moving this one.

I watched a video a few years ago where a man was narrating a "minute by minute" of the Luby's Massacre, and now that I'm thinking of it again I can't find it. I've already cleared my history and don't see it in my likes unfortunately.

It had a voice-over narration by a guy I don't remember. A good portion of his video had a map with circles representing people and their locations in the restaurant at different times. He gave snippets of interviews, as well as news coverage, and some things about the memorials that were put up afterwards. I remember it being a longer video, at least 20 minutes, and not having a lot of views at the time. The production style reminds me of that really good DB Cooper video, but it wasn't by that person.

Thanks for the help!

Do any of the gas stations in town sell ethanol free gasoline of any grade?

I sure don't! But every three out of four posts I see on this sub are obvious AI slop. Where are the mods?

'02 Ford Taurus OHV U w/ 110k miles

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This is beyond me, so I appreciate any help! Local mechanics haven't seemed interested in helping unless I agree to just swap parts or pay "a few hours" worth of diag.

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Intermittently, when I go to start my car in the morning I'll get a no-crank-no-start. A few key cycles, and it'll crank but not start. A few cranks and it starts, but runs very rough and sometimes dies. Start a few times, then it's normal. It may take a night or a week of sitting, but it comes back exponentially faster and worse w/ more heat/rain.

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I have codes PCM P0351-353, P1000 (it says the evap system monitor failed), P1705 and GEM B1352, B1302, C1167, B1371, and B1398. I don't know which are related, but these all come back after resetting.

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The ignition coils, starter, spark plugs + wires, fuel pump have all been replaced very recently, since the issue started. I'm unsure why, but the PCM was replaced shortly before I bought the car.

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Sitting battery voltage & cranking voltage are normal. In FORScan, the PCM voltage is readable in any behavior "stage". Fuel rail pressure is normal. All plugs have spark. No visible issues with any relevant fuses/relays/sockets.

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Key cycling (and later turning on/off again) is the only thing I've found to do to help it get over "acting a fool". It takes more convincing on wetter/hotter days. I've given up a few times to come back hours later and it's perfect again. (Makes diag hard to schedule!) If it acts right once, I can turn it off and it always immediately starts again.

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Trying to start in neutral or pressing the gas doesn't help. Moving/pressing the steering wheel or key cylinder does nothing. Using my spare key is the same. Turning AC/radio/lights/etc on or off doesn't change anything. Swapping relays/fuses did not help.

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In the no-crank "stage", the transmission, fuel cap, and the battery lights don't light up in on or start. The fuel pump also doesn't prime. Every other dash indicator is normal and all accessories work.

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Once starting and running rough, it seems to have a high idle and hunts a bit. shifting gears or giving it gas makes things worse. Voltage drop from park to reverse. Apparently normal IAC & MAF.

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Thank you all!

'02 Ford Taurus OHV U w/ 110k miles

​

This is beyond me, so I appreciate any help! Local mechanics haven't seemed interested in helping unless I agree to just swap parts or pay "a few hours" worth of diag.

​

Intermittently, when I go to start my car in the morning I'll get a no-crank-no-start. A few key cycles, and it'll crank but not start. A few cranks and it starts, but runs very rough and sometimes dies. Start a few times, then it's normal. It may take a night or a week of sitting, but it comes back exponentially faster and worse w/ more heat/rain.

​

I have codes PCM P0351-353, P1000 (it says the evap system monitor failed), P1705 and GEM B1352, B1302, C1167, B1371, and B1398. I don't know which are related, but these all come back after resetting.

​

The ignition coils, starter, spark plugs + wires, fuel pump have all been replaced very recently, since the issue started. I'm unsure why, but the PCM was replaced shortly before I bought the car.

​

Sitting battery voltage & cranking voltage are normal. In FORScan, the PCM voltage is readable in any behavior "stage". Fuel rail pressure is normal. All plugs have spark. No visible issues with any relevant fuses/relays/sockets.

​

Key cycling (and later turning on/off again) is the only thing I've found to do to help it get over "acting a fool". It takes more convincing on wetter/hotter days. I've given up a few times to come back hours later and it's perfect again. (Makes diag hard to schedule!) If it acts right once, I can turn it off and it always immediately starts again.

​

Trying to start in neutral or pressing the gas doesn't help. Moving/pressing the steering wheel or key cylinder does nothing. Using my spare key is the same. Turning AC/radio/lights/etc on or off doesn't change anything. Swapping relays/fuses did not help.

​

In the no-crank "stage", the transmission, fuel cap, and the battery lights don't light up in on or start. The fuel pump also doesn't prime. Every other dash indicator is normal and all accessories work.

​

Once starting and running rough, it seems to have a high idle and hunts a bit. shifting gears or giving it gas makes things worse. Voltage drop from park to reverse. Apparently normal IAC & MAF.

​

Thank you all!

My cast iron has been getting a lot of dust and cat hair on it, and it sticks kind of bad. I've tried washing it, but whatever I use to dry it leaves a bunch of lint. Oven or stove drying takes too long. A waste of energy and extra heat in my apartment, too. It's not a before every meal thing, or even a daily thing for every piece, but it's annoying enough I want to do something.

Fixing my storage situation comes to mind first. It hangs out on my bookshelves right now. Unfortunately, I share a small kitchen with three roommates. One of them burnt herself once when I left it to cool on the stove, so oven isn't an option. There's no cabinet space to spare, either. (As if I wanted to risk them touching my precious, precious cast iron!) The only thing I can think of is a Sterilite tote under my bed.

We live in a very high humidity area, and I've already had a couple of my lesser used pieces get rust-dusted or get spots where something has been touching it. Wouldn't keeping them in a tote make the issue even worse? I guess I could put a Damprid bucket or something in there, too, but is it that simple? Any better options?