u/EuphoricFlight6249

I’m moving temporarily overseas today, and a family member sent me about $100 on Venmo. I had just closed my old US bank account and opened a different fee-free US account. I connected that account to Venmo and initiated the transfer, but Venmo said in order to verify my bank, I’ll need to wait until two small deposits and withdrawals are made, and then confirm those amounts to Venmo.

However, it said that this can take 1-3 business days, and I’m leaving in a few hours. I also read that once I’m overseas, I won’t be able to log in to Venmo in order to do the verification. Is that true? If so, what happens to that money/what should I do?

I tried to make a new account, had to log in twice in 30 minutes with a code sent to me email (2FA, even though I was on the same browser and never logged out), then told I had to do another typing numbers check to make sure I’m not a bot, then provide my phone number to get another code to check, and then upload a selfie, which so far I didn’t do. Jesus Christ. I wasn’t a bot 30 minutes ago and I’m not one now, Mark🙄

A family member has a ‘23(?) Camry hybrid base. Never felt very comfortable riding shotgun, couldn’t seem to get the seat in a good spot. But I drove it for the first time today and was way more impressed! I could hardly tell when it went from EV mode to running the engine, the acceleration and braking were super smooth, AC worked great even when it shut the motor off (big contrast with gas only cars with a start/stop feature, when it feels like you just lose AC at every red light, sucks in Florida), and it was just so quiet and easy. And even though the seat looked the same as the passenger seat, something about it felt way better.

Just thought I’d share, because as a passenger I didn’t care for the car at all. As a driver, it was great.

I'm a new grad and have no debt and low expenses. I'm from the US and will spend the next 3 ish years working in Japan. I will be earning yen. My salary will be lowish, but my company subsidizes a lot of other things like housing and commuting, so after expenses I anticipate being able to save what would be $500-1000 in USD every month.

I have enough savings to make sure I have sufficient emergency cash. With that taken care of, what should I do with the yen that will be available for me to save, given that I plan to return to the US in the not-so-distant future? I have an AMEX High Yield Savings account that gets 3% and has about $5,000 in it. Should I just convert my extra yen to USD and put it there? Some kind of brokerage or retirement account? Should I do something else with the Amex account?

I understand that I'll need to file taxes in the US, but that I won't actually be required to pay anything, given my income level.

Otherwise, what should I do? I'm a novice and wanted to ask some real people in conjunction with google to help make sure I get started on the right foot. Thanks!

Haha sorry don’t mean to “yell,” just want to make it very clear that I am NOT asking if it is okay to check a violin into the cargo hold of an airplane; I will never do this.

What I am asking is if it is safe to check an empty violin case (BAM) on a transpacific flight so that I could carry my violin in its nicer newer case in the overhead bin while still bringing my empty case back home.

In what Saab, how many miles on the Saab, and anything you did to prepare for it + if anything went awry.

Sadly, I just had to sell my NG 9-3, but at 270,000 miles, it still runs like a top. I drove it 5,000 miles last month and I’d have no reservations about doing it again tomorrow. On long trips I’d carry my spare key, extra fluids, a couple extra (used) coils, couple wrenches and torx bits, tape, jumper cables, air compressor, cheap code reader, and I meant to clone my spare ecu but never did. The only thing I ever needed was the air compressor.

Sadly I have to sell my Saab. I listed it on marketplace a couple days ago, and haven’t had many hits yet. I did my best to price it fairly, but it’s a bit tricky since there aren’t many listings to compare it to. Mine is a manual 9-3 (2007) with incredible service records, no mechanical issues, no rust, and no warning lights. It just has a ton of miles and the paint has seen better days. I listed it around 3k, since anything cheaper seems to be an automatic, not pass inspection, and have some mechanical flaws like no AC, stalling out, bad cat, etc.

What I’m wondering is how long to leave it up before considering reducing the price, and generally how long it took anyone here to sell their Saab when they had to do so.

Obviously, this post is not an ad - I’m just asking for other peoples’ experiences with the selling process.

Thanks!

I created a secondary gmail for the purpose of selling my car, in order to avoid posting my primary all over the web. The secondary made me sign in and do two step verification just about every time I checked it, in spite of having a passkey set up. This morning, I woke up and it was disabled. Google said something about it appearing abusive of polices in some ways, or created by a bot. I appealed it, but in the meantime if someone emails that address with an inquiry, what happens to it?

In my early/mid 20s, male, around 130lbs, 5'7"ish. Had T1 for around 12 years now. Using Dexcom G7, Humalog, and Toujeo. Lately I've been trying to increase my time in range. My A1c is usually in the mid 6's, but I feel like I'm high a lot. For example, I've been between 170-200 for the past 3-4 hours, and I didn't even eat dinner. I've never gone over my CGM data with my doctor, but he says my labs are fine. This just personally really bothers me and I feel like there has to be a way to be better.

My sensitivity to Humalog seems different every day. Usually, I would take 3 extra units to bring down a high of 200. Today I took 8, skipped dinner, and took a walk in the hot Florida sun and it's done literally nothing. I've been trying to be better about taking my insulin around 15-30 minutes before a meal when I can, because I've found it greatly helps in not sending me to the moon after I eat. (Of course, along with trying to have a balanced diet that avoids processed carbs like white bread, soda, etc).

My problem right now is that I'm having a second spike post meal (around 2 hours ish after eating, after returning to a normal level following the initial spike which is usually between 140-180), and nothing seems to work to correct it. This is especially true for the afternoon and evening. Morning used to be my biggest problem, but surprisingly that's randomly decided to behave better lately.

I can't increase my Toujeo anymore, as I usually fall from wherever I am to around 70 during the night and just cruise there.

My range on the Dexcom is set from 70-150, and I just can't seem to get higher than 50-60% in range. For example, my last 7 days are 6% very high, 37% high, 52% in range, 4% low, and 1% very low. It improves a bit if I set the range from 70-180, but not by a whole lot.

Also, I'm not worried about the "very low." It happens occasionally, but usually it's just from my sensor freaking out in the night because I rolled over onto my arm in my sleep when I'm actually totally fine. What I care to work on right now are the high numbers.

Is there anything else I can do?? This really annoys me.

I have an SE2 that I use as a backup phone. It's still covered under apple care 1, just because I had an "empty slot" for it.

It has 82% health, but there is a message that says:

Important Battery Message

Your battery's health is significantly degraded. An Apple Authorized Service Provider can replace the battery to restore full performance and capacity.

When I go through the Find Your Service Options link just below that message, it's showing a $0 battery replacement cost due to AppleCare. However, I thought Apple only covered batteries below 80% health. I'm not sure if it makes a difference in their system, but it does die often and the clock will reset to random times and it just generally kinda struggles. I just kept it around because it was still worth more to me as a backup device than the $40 I could get for trade-in.

Will this be covered? Or would the total update when I actually go through with the replacement?

I'm thinking about getting one, but...

The price is obviously a deterrent. I've tried one that a colleague has and it clearly sounds way better than my current Wolf Forte Secondo to everyone that heard it. It didn't feel horrible on my body but I'm also not sure if I'll love it, and for the price I definitely need to love it and use it for a long time.

My shoulders are very sloping and not broad at all. Since my body is basically a hill going down my shoulders and a hill going down my chest, I've found traditional shoulder rests (kun style) to be quite unstable and put the violin at a downward angle (unless I make the feet ungodly high, which I don't like because it takes the violin off my collarbonebone so it basically just wobbles in midair). A similar fitment to a kun-style rest is my chief worry with the korfkerrest.

I played without a shoulder rest for many years, since I found that it felt more stable to me to put the violin on my collarbone, hold it up with my arm, and just let the space between my shoulder and the back of the violin be empty.

A year or two ago I discovered the Wolf Secondo and it solved the problems I had with the kun-style rests because of its crescent shape - it contacts me more on the top of my body's "hills" rather than on the "slopes" so it feels more stable, I can still feel the violin on my collarbone, and it doesn't force the violin into a downward angle. It's just large and heavy, and the Korfkerrest sounds so much better. I did buy a Luna a while ago and ended up selling it for about half price because it didn't fit me at all.

Anyone with a similar body type use the wooden Korfkerrest 2 and have a good experience?

I have a MacBook with the Henle library app. I don't want to play off of my laptop, but I'd like to print some scores I have from the digital Henle library. I can export them as pdfs no problem, but the margins are weird; the music gets smaller, and there's a big "chin" at the bottom. Choosing the button when I export that says scale to fit doesn't change anything. My colleagues with iPads don't have any sizing issues. Is this just a Mac thing? Has anyone found a way to print scores with a normal size/normal borders?