Killin' it! Really proud of myself with how these designs are going!
Objects, modifiers, and tweaked slicer settings. All done in Snorca!
Objects, modifiers, and tweaked slicer settings. All done in Snorca!
Otherwise it had little gaps in the middle of the small ones. All .2mm layer height on the textured sheet. Now to finalize the design...
140mm pc fan powered separately (may change power source in the future). This is primarily to reduce room heat, secondary is to reduce fumes. If I were to go all out I'd have seals with intake and outtake to try and maintain neutral air pressure, but more toxic engineering materials I'd rather do single color in the garage on my centauri carbon.
I'd go darker if I could, but somehow would need a less opaque white while still wanting to use the same black. Didn't want to pause and manually load gray. Vice-versa on color order is just black, I learned that the hard way lmao
Throwing idea after idea at it and learning some neat modifier tricks in the slicer to get better bridging for deep patterns.
Shown close is a random generic silk gold PLA and the green... I have spent hours debating and couldn't find anything close to proto pasta's metallic cloverleaf. It truly is a filament in a league of its own... deep, rich, matte metallic shine. If anyone knows of a very close alternative sold in 1kg for cheaper please let me know!
I bought one on Amazon recently and noticed this on the plate. It was well packaged, nothing out of the ordinary. I chalked it up to rough package assembly. Weeks now, I'm seeing even more faint scuffs and scratches, many of which aren't even in areas I'm really printing at. More notably by the back right of the plate in a line sorta mirroring the wide plate oval paths. I'm completely dumbfounded, did I just not see them or is it being added to? My hunch is fragile plate coatings that are not only friction/abrasion sensitive but also heat sensitive from close nozzle passes. I really have no idea though. My prusa, centauri carbon, and a1 mini never had this issue with their textured plates and I keep them so well taken care of they look nearly brand new.
Got a Snapmaker U1 and oh my my, I have been having a blast with it! Tweaked my dice box design and got them working so much better! Main issue was friction related with door thickness and matte filaments. Now I can make the matte boxes have a slicker PLA surface inside that the door runs across 😁 instead of .4mm pattern depth i made it 1mm depth and improved black coloring with some modifiers. Honeycomb pattern has a slight chamfer too which I think is a little more eye catching.
Printing the initial test model. Ready to start some challenging prints i have in store 😗
Over 400g in and still not slouching! I have actual bearings on hand, but at this point its more of a long form experiment I want to keep doing 😂
New bearing arrives soon!
I am thinking about getting it soon. My question centers around layer lines showing and how to eliminate them.
1: How easy is it to print with the viewing side facing the bed? Does the squish mess things up even for smooth sheets?
2: If the bed being the viewing side doesn't work out, couldn't you just print a one layer height translucent filament first across the whole image?
3: Is ironing top layers practical?
4: Do you think that non-planar printing is possible to use with hueforge if you want a 3D pop-out effect without showing staircasing?
Heard mixed things about decoys. My theory is the effectiveness varies based on the temperament of the colony. Successes could also be attributed to something else completely unrelated. So we'll see!
Hornets nest decoy with fuzzy skin
Can we hide VFA's if every part of outer wall is made up of VFA's? Think about, you install a vibration module to the extruder. To calibrate it you measure the distance of your existing VFA's, tune it, and then it'll introduce VFA's to fill in the other spaces. Or if it's more simple, just crank it so that it overlaps the unintended VFA's.