Had an old original Xbox one controller that I broke down for parts. Analog sticks get stuck when pushed all the way in a cardinal direction. What's the best way to clean/lube these?
This pi zero was used in a prototype I was working on. Lot of shifting and desoldering has cause the dp and 5v pads to detach. Just wondering if these also go to dp dm?
I'm devastated, but it's been starting to become a headache to rely on for a 20 mile daily round trip commute to work and back. Solid Montana truck selling in Wisconsin. I don't like these kinds of posts, but with a bunch of parts I've stockpiled, what do you think it would be worth?
I don't have a dial gauge and I haven't worked with automatics before. I'm trying to track down a noise that happens at higher rpm. Worse when warm but seems to be related to resonance at certain higher rpm (1500-2000+)
My old 1.8L has been in pieces for 6 years and likely needs machining. My plan right now is to hook up this intake I bought and convert a free 1.7L I got to carb. Engine didn't have the injectors anymore so I'm not real torn up about ditching the cis. I'm a little worried the 38/38 weber I had sitting around will be a bit too much carb.
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Has anyone done the carb conversion that has tips/advice on plugging the injector holes and getting it going from the carb? I saw online that people have used silicone and dimes to plug them but I haven't seen any actual examples.
Top of my windshield leaks on the drivers side during heavy rain. I don't see a ton of rust, so im hoping the windshield just isn't sealed well. Could I use a little silicone along the top to help negate the leak? I don't have a lot of cash right now to have an actual windshield shop take a look.
I've been fighting warping with Overture Matte PLA. Can't get these corners to stop lifting.
Printer- mercury one.1
Temp-215 first layer-210 rest
Bed- 70
Speed-30 first layer - 140 walls/ 180 infill
- I've tried turning off my ac in my office, raising bed temp, lowering bed temp, 8-wide brims, etc.
Running out of ideas. Idk why I bought more matte pla. I always seem to have issues with this stuff.
PO put this wheel off a (I think) '65 tbird. It matches the thunderbird aircleaner he put on the 352 in it. It's had the splits since I got it and I have some zipties to hold the trim to the wheel. What do yall think? Should I keep it, or look for an original wheel?
I loved the look of my big chunky version 1, but it was impractical and has numerous problems that I wanted to address. Version 2 is smaller, more comfortable, and has a much more usable dpad. All the buttons have a much more consistent feel with the current caveat of being a little louder than I would have liked and having to ditch the low profile keyboard switches that ver 1 used.
Just installed a new water pump that I've had for a while. Went to fill the rad and coolant started pouring out of this hole on the underside. The old pump has the same hole and is not plugged and never leaked. Does anyone know what it's function is and can I do something to stop it?
given the rising prices of Raspberry Pi stuff, I am in the middle of rotating the Pis that I have in order to work on some other projects. I have a Pi Zero 2 W, which is currently connected and working with a btt skrV1.4 turbo board. I installed mainsail on a pi 3 and transfered over the config file (and double checked the mcu serial) but it wont connect to the printer. I also tried reinstalling mainsail on a pi 4 that had previously been running the printer before the zero 2 w.
I don't understand what I'm missing here. I've triple checked the serial address for the mcu and aside from the pi 3 potentially having a power supply issue, I don't know why it or the pi 4 will not connect to the printer anymore. I've made sure they're all up to date and I even reflashed the firmware to the skrV1.4.
Anyone had issues like this before? I know when I first switched to the zero from the pi 4, I had similar issues but they just kinda went away after fiddling around with the serial address a couple times.
There's some rough parts and some things I definitely need to address, but it works!
Found a board from when my work was still sgi. Aside from the missing windows keys, this is the nicest rubber dome office keyboard I've ever used.
Ignore the attempt to trim the button holes
Printer- Mercury One.1
Sunlu pla+
Orcaslicer
170mm/s for all line types - 40mm/s first layer
215c
Bed 60c
This was printed at a 45 planted on that bottom chamfer
I've been fighting with the best way to print this shell. Printing face down seems to be my best bet, but I tried a 45 angle for this one. I'm not sure if this is resonance or what. I have run most of the calibration tests available in Orcaslicer. The vfa test did show this pattern worse at slightly slower speeds. I'm wondering if I need to tune in some resonance avoidance speeds.