I had one during in my refrigerator from 2024 so wanted to try it, no luck. Also have a bag of PE that doesn’t seems to be doing anything. Meanwhile I have two other bags doing great. Do you ever reinject bags?
I’m building an add on to my garage that’s a man cave home theater. The room will be 24.5x15.5 with 9ft walls.
I mainly just don’t want to anger the neighbors. The build will have rockwool insulation
I’m looking into hushframe as well as sound isolation clips. Are these worth it or is a second layer of drywall the better option? The cost of doing everything with the green glues seems prohibitive. What’s my better option? Floating the wall or doubling up with a second 5/8 layer?
I have a man cave being built to primarily house a 12x9ft golf simulator. The room itself will have an interior of 25ft x 15.5ft. The screen will have a BenQ Ak700ST projector and the room will have no windows. I’d like to use the big screen at times for movies. The issue is the scare of bad golf ball strikes taking out speakers. A low center channel isn’t an option. I could possibly have a ceiling mounded one angling downward.
Outside of what’s in front of me I really don’t have limits. Construction hasn’t started yet but will shortly so when framing I can have all the wiring needed ran along with spares.
When in a theater it seems like they always have bookshelf speakers down the walls at high elevations. Could I do this for the whole room then calibrate it down? I was just looking at the JBL Stage 2 complete system. It’s a starting point for me. The front towers scare me so again wondering if the LCR can be higher up. Or is it possible to just stage speakers down the walls like headphones with L&R and surrounds in the back?
I have a twin sub setup at another home and would probably go that route.
I have a John Deere 825i. I don't need the knobby UTV tires. My current tires are dry rotting. I'd like a quality set of smooth riding tires. I'd even use automobile tires if I could find any.
Wouldn’t the LLM itself be what makes the decisions? How does a harness change this?
I'm actually building an add-on to my garage that's for a golf simulator. It's going to have a gray hit screen to start with. The screen itself is 12ftx9ft after padded borders and I have a BenQ AK700ST 4k laser projector for it. There's no windows in this room. The walls are 9ft high but then ceiling rises to the center which I believe will be around 12.5ft high.
I know nothing will match a specialized theater only setup but this is what I have to work with. I will consider adding a retractable theater screen if it turns out the image quality just isn't there, however, I'm told the new gray impact screens are much better than what's been on the market.
I don't necessarily have a budget but by that I mean I'd rather wait and build with time than buy something that's 60% of what I want/need now only to have to pay to replace it later. I do have. a bay home that's been in the family for a long while and I'm running a Polk 3.2 setup there with dual 12" svs sealed subs and I've been very happy with their capability. I'm more worried about neighbors going any larger.
I've always wondered how movie theaters get their audio like they do where the voices seem to come from the characters. Are they running speakers behind the scenes or is it possible to have speakers on the side walls that balance towards the center? Seeing as I'm going to be launching golf balls at the screen the through of having a center channel there doesn't seem possible unless it's ceiling mounted and somehow balances out. That brings me to my next main question. Is there software I can play with that helps figure out the acoustics of a room? Something that will help me decided how large of speakers I need, show if it placing them at height if I can still balance them for our seating area, etc? How does someone balance the sound of a large screen to make the voices appear to be location authentic?
As the permitting is almost done and construction to begin I'm thinking I'll want to also use the area as a home theater. I guess I can add a second retracting theater screen to come down. Question is what do people do for speakers? I don't need an errant shot blowing through one.
I have basically everything MetaboHPT but I need a compact impact wrench to have on me in a tight spaced tool box. Basically for lug nuts. I have one of these and have batteries but honestly it’s the only tool in the lineup I’m just not sure about. The other day I was working on a pier and using big lag bolts this couldn’t drive but my triple hammer impact driver could. The thing I’ve always liked about metabohpt is their ergonomics and IP ratings. Had this actual gun fall off the transom of my boat at the dock into the saltwater. Found it after about 5 min. Filled a bucket with fresh water and threw it in to soak. That was 4yrs ago. So I’ll never question their durability.
I have ffmpeg and also have the commercial E-AC3 encoder on a 90 day license from Dolby. What bitrate would basically give me transparent audio? I'm curious to try it out but want to keep all the fidelity I can. I'm have a large amount of TrueHD, DTS-HD, etc and I want to compress it without a loss in quality my ears can tell. At my home I use a Bose soundbar/sub system which works great with opus but my Onkyo TX-NR7100 9.2-Channel AVR doesn't like it. It will pass through to my AppleTV/GoogleTV Streamer but it's constantly doing this "click" every few seconds that sounds mechanical and based on all the forums it's just something it does with opus. I basically have been wanting my library to be more universal and Opus doesn't seem to like AVRs as much. Being able to get E-AC3 through my company for a bit to play with does have me excited.
My library is also out of space. While I know Opus is more efficient it's not my only goal so it's more of a compatibility+compression. I want to save the space I can but not at the expense of audio quality. I'll buy replacement hard drives as well. However even at max bitrate there's a substantial amount of disk savings to be had.
My question isn't about which codec to use but what bitrate to use. I'm going to do 2 pass VBR using Dolby's Encoding Engine. What bitrate for 5.1 and 7.1 is considered transparent? I don't have a 5.1 or 7.1 system. My home has the Bose Soundbar 700 w sub so that's 3.1 and our family bayhome has a polk audio 3.2 setup. I wanted to keep the channels all matching and try to preserve as much as possible for others using it with their systems. I also watch a ton on my macbook pro as well using headphones and am currently building out a man cave with a 13ftx9ft theater screen so no telling where that project is going to end up lol.
Even if it's just for compatibility it's better I go with E-AC3. So what bitrates for 5.1 and 7.1?
Have an issue where many files should direct play but playback choppy. Manually forcing a transcode to anything and it's suddenly smooth. However you have to force it to transcode and this has really been bothering me.
Sometimes it's because of a bug in Plex's easyaudioencoder needing to be deleted to be updated or it's because of Dolby profiles, or in this case a new problem I hadn't known of. I took the leash off AI and had it troubleshoot the problem. It found this as the reasoning. May people encode 10bit HEVC because it's more efficient and does a better job with banding, however, it appears to cause a hiccup with the AppleTV4k playback. Here's what my AI found to be the issue with this.
***AI Analysis***
The video is the same story on both — HEVC 10-bit, BT.709 color (SDR in a 10-bit container). That's the smoking gun.
The Apple TV 4K hardware decoder is designed to handle:
These files are 10-bit HEVC with no HDR metadata (just BT.709 SDR color). The decoder doesn't know what to do with that — it tries to treat it as HDR content, the pipeline gets confused, and you get dropped frames / choppiness.
When Plex transcodes to 4K, it re-encodes to standard 8-bit H.264 which the Apple TV plays buttery smooth.
***
Right now the solution is to identify and replace. Not the best but it's a solution at least. Between that and converting all HD audio to E-AC3 my entire library will be more compatible. I do use it in multiple locations on different hardware. Opus was giving my AVR a bit of a headache so I'm taking all the HD audio streams and converting them to E-AC3 (I don't have atmos) to be more compatible across the board.
If I have my temp at 75 during the day and 68-70deg at night is there issue with that? Right now I’m just injecting my bags.
I currently have a swiftbot 10+ that I liked because of it's little size but that thing can't make it half a room without 100% of the time getting stuck. It's either wedged under a recliner, lost, wrapped up around a phone charger cable, stuck under a couch, etc.
I want to dodge the headache and have a clean summer home when I get there. It's a family place we share that's been with us for 40 years. It's not big, bedrooms have carpet, bathroom a rug, rest is a laminate floor. Ultimately I'm looking for the most set and forget possible. If there's something low profile that can get under furniture great but if that just means it's going to get stuck then I don't want it. I already want to throw this one out the window.
I do have a roborock s7 maxV with docking station at my home I could take there. Maybe that would be better than the switchbot?
Seems a bit silly it's mine but I can't send people a few hundred yards into the territory to build it up. What are my options? I don't want to lose the territory or people in it.
I said what I said. You capture your enemy you keep a few to work.
I'm having issues with homebase 3 and I'm on my second one. I keep going through the setup and it keeps saying to push the sync button for two seconds to hear a beep. The beep never happens. If I hold it forever it eventually tells me to turn it over and reset the unit. I've done this a few times as well. I used their AI chatbot and kept posting everything I was being told and the AI bot signed me up to have the unit replaced. However this is two units it's done it with. I'm wondering if there was some software update I don't know about that's caused this. Anyone else having the same issues? Did you resolve it?
We are about to submit the plans for my garage extension to the city for my golf simulator. The question I'm having with the engineer/architect is if the interior height is enough. I'm 6ft but my tallest friend is 6ft 8" so preparing for that.
Is the golf ball actually dead center of the sim or offset? We're all right handed so would the ball be a foot or two offset towards the right wall or is the ball dead center and golfer displaced backwards?
He's shorter than me but here's Rory. Anyone done the math on how this works out height/distance from wall wise? The interior dimensions of the room are right around 15.5ft x 24ft. If the side walls are 9ft tall but the ceiling follows the frame, no attic, will I have enough height?
I have a 2008 LMM that’s had its weight loss. Currently running the Amsoil SS Max Duty but I did add a bottle of motorkote for this change so weights might be a little lighter.
Had a backup camera and touchscreen added for maps so everything was disconnected any my oil life monitor reset. I’m currently at about 5.5k miles just wanting to plan ahead. Had credit for free oil from FCP Euro so have liqui moly sitting here just wonder with the tune and weight loss when I should consider changing it.
