u/Successful-Peak-6524

Heavy Rifle: 18

Heavy Rifle-BF: 16.8

Medium Rifle: 12

Medium Rifle-BF: 16

Light Rifle: 7

Light Rifle-BF: 8

Hello guys, I've been calibrating my SV06 Ace Plus and the input shaping data for the Y axis (bed) is this:

https://preview.redd.it/f1j93hpnlu8h1.png?width=709&format=png&auto=webp&s=f98e0488649f70f798fbb56688eb44e0b72660d4

It suggests a maximum acceleration of 1800mm/sec^2 ???

Currently, in printer.cfg the max acceleration is 15000.

How is this possible?

And the orcaslicer shows a max acceleration on the Y axis of 20000.

Is anything wrong? should I limit my printer to 1800mm/sec?

Disclaimer: This review reflects my own genuine experience and opinions. AI was only used to translate and format my notes into English as I'm not a native english speaker, SORRY GUYS.

PROS:

• Stunning & robust build: The printer looks absolutely beautiful and feels incredibly sturdy. The quality of the materials is top-notch.
• Premium aesthetics: In online photos, the blue color looked a bit too bright and toy-like. However, in person, it's a darker, more muted shade that looks highly professional.
• Incredible print quality: The out-of-the-box print quality is nothing short of amazing.
• Blazing fast: It is super quick, performing right on par with modern CoreXY printers.
• Open-source: Having fully open-source firmware/hardware is a huge plus for the community.
• Unbeatable price: At less than €300, the price-to-performance ratio is outstanding.

CONS:

• Noisy fans: The cooling fans are quite loud during operation. I'm in the process of exchanging them. Next iterations should take this into account though.
• Tedious nozzle changes: Swapping out the nozzle is a slow and problematic process, many people has broken their extruder boards because of this. Having a system like E3D Revo would be great.
• Extruder PTFE limitation: The extruder doesn’t support a PTFE tube connector out of the box, so you will need to print your own adapter.
• Basic build plate: The build plate really should have been dual-sided, with one smooth side and one textured side.

TIPS (this part was not translated by AI):

• I reversed the hotend, so the wires face the X axis (180º turn), this way it's pretty straightforward to clamp the heating block and unscrew the nozzle without fully removing it. I just lossen the screws a little bit so there is some play in the hotend before trying to unscrew the nozzle.
• Couldn't level my bed because every screw in each corner had a small metal tube that didn't allow for more adjustments. After removing them (and keeping the springs OFC), I could finally keep my bed at less than 0.3mm difference across the surface. Pretty good to me. Before that, it was 0.7mm.
• I plan to release some modifications on Printables soon, will keep you posted.

I've spent some time researching my next printer. Things I know:

• I want to know/understand every internal thing of it, so a kit is required.
• It should be corexy because is the most robust design as of today. I still love bed slingers, they are elegant in their design, and there are a few that are fast but they limit you to a few filament types.
• It must run klipper. I think this is a must for a good ratio of speed, quality and customization, and also I'm a Linux user, so.... This requirement discarded printers like Prusas with their custom Marlin.
• It should allow for easy maintenance. The Vorons are pretty "open" (frame), the reverse electronics mod for the Trident is amazing. I'm also loving the 2.4 more "clean" design where everything stays in the low side and the top is pretty clear.
• It must be aestetic, because it will be staying at my little flat with white walls. Printers that are obscure boxes are totally discarded (this means 90% of printers actually). It's sad that companies don't explore this niche a bit more. They think their printers will be installed in the basement or a print farm, I don't know. Voron's structure are some profiles, that can have any color you want and clear sides.

So the question about the CNC parts is that while they are very durable and rigid, I suppose they can't be modified anymore, and if one of those parts, somehow, break, I'm done.

I understand that printed parts are more fragile but allow for unlimited repairs and customizations.

Are they worth it then?

This is more or less the setup I'm looking for (generated with AI), even though I don't know where to get the white profiles:

https://preview.redd.it/iyc56urvqv1h1.png?width=1402&format=png&auto=webp&s=1497fe274154942627d8e5500751990a73f33360

Just slicing things in PrusaSlicer and OrcaSlicer, same profiles and all, and the Mk4s is consistently faster than the Core One or Core One L.

These are estimates though.

A simple benchy takes 25 minutes in the Mk4s (0.28 draft) and 27 minutes in the Core One L (also 0.28 draft).

Is the CoreXY overhyped or am I missing something?

In this page there is a list of printed parts for the kit, but it doesn't mention at all the motor mount plates. Why? Does it come with the kit?

I can't find a list of included parts where those parts are listed. I found the STLs in the voron github page but that's it.