u/SuccessfulMinute8338

​Tried Project Hail Mary. Fails and crashes MakeMKV. Anyone else seen this before?

UPDATE: I updated the KEYDB file - no change. Installed Java runtime. No change.
Rebooted the computer (as opposed to restarting MakeMKV) and that fixed it!
Thank you to all who helped.

My thoughts to Honda as they redesign the ridgeline. Join in here with what You would want them to know.

* Reliability is Not an option. Look what happened to Toyota’s name with their turbo v6 engine fiasco.
* Trunk stays- not negotiable.
* More power and torque are always welcome. I would love a higher towing capacity too
* Timing CHAIN. You know you can do it.
* Update the controls starting with the steering wheel. Find who designed the steering wheel controls on the 2025 and do not let them near the new design.
* Test the controls while wearing gloves. Preferably by someone with big hands.
* Drag the design team under the truck for an oil change. No more oil filters over the cross members.
* If it locks, I should be able to unlock it with my hand. (Yeah, I’m talking about the tailgate)
* Rear camera that is not unusable because I have the tailgate down.
* Leave off the fake air intake in the hood. Just because the big 3 do it doesn’t mean you need it. It adds manufacturing cost and is the equivalent of stuffing a sock in your pants.
* Offer decent tires. I shouldn’t need to replace them at 30,000 miles.

I’m on my 3rd Ridgeline and love the truck, but hey, always room for improvement.

Ok, a little hyperbole here as I Did complete it, but it was challenging.
First change on my 2025 BE. I had to use a breaker bar to open the fill hole - I can live with that. It had not been opened before. Always do that first because if you can’t fill it again, you do Not want to drain it. Next was the drain.
A regular and even a long wrench would not do it. My 2’ breaker bar would not budge it. I dragged out the air impact driver and set it at the highest setting. Even with that, it took it a while. For a bolt that should be torqued to 33 Lb-Ft, this had been factory installed at Way over that - over 100 by my guess.
But that was the Start of the fun. I had moved the drain pan “out of the way” trying to break the plug free. When the impact driver broke it, it continued to spin and pulled the bolt All the way out. The bolt went flying, oil shot out about 18” and the pan was out of reach. I played “little Dutch boy” and plugged my finger in the dike. That worked, but then what. I yelled for my wife - she was inside and out of hearing. I finally bit the bullet, pulled my finger out, scooted for the plug, scooted back and put the plug in to stop the flood. I figure about 1/3-1/2 of the fluid made it out onto the floor.
Drained the rest into the pan (novel concept, right?).
Then, to fill, I had a 350ml syringe I bought on Amazon. It was a 2 pack and I use one to fill the in sink soap dispensers (for which it works great).
Well, the tubing I had on it curls around in the bottle and sucks in air. Perhaps if I could have straightened it, it would have been better. Then, unlike the soap, the DPSF-II fluid is light enough that it drains from the hose as I move it from bottle to fill hole - leaving yet another trail of fluid on the floor. I gave up after 2 messy syringe fills and went back to the bottle pump.
I did manage to fill it, torqued the plugs to the proper torque and spent the next hour cleaning.

I learned today that the HVAC setting follows your key just like sear and mirrors. I’m the type to read owners manuals and I never saw this. Was on a trip and when we would switch drivers, the temp and fan settings followed the driver!
Now, who do we have to talk to for the rear view mirror to be automated as well? Side mirrors are, but we still have to reach up and manually adjust that mirror. Is there some regulation preventing it?

I had a strange issue today - my Deco BE11000 network would not pass wired traffic. All wireless was working fine but I couldn’t get it to allow wired traffic.
I pulled one station and wiped it and put it in as a new main network center and removed the old main device. I now have a 2 node mesh (have not tried to reset the old one) and things are working normally again.
Anyone ever seen this issue?

My daughter’s tv (Sony)can play M4V files but doesn’t recognize MKV files.
I can run them through handbrake but that takes forever. Any suggestions for transcoding them?

We have the little guy Max with the Rough Rider package. That means it is lifted about 4”.
It came with a single step and I’m looking for a double step to replace it. Face to face mounting dimension is 26”
Anyone have a step they have used and recommend?
Any you recommend against?

I have a little guy Mac and the monitor for the camera is dying. I need to get a new set and was wondering about recommendations. Probably a 5-6” display would be good with a 4K resolution.

I often tow a camper during the summer. It has a camera mounted on the back and I stick a little monitor to the windshield to view it.
I would Love to get rid of the little monitor and simply use my CarPlay display.
Does anyone know of something like this is out there?

I accidentally ordered a “Refill” spool. Anyone successful at disassembling and reassembling a spool and inserting it into the reel or do I need to print a winder?

I have had my Core One for about a year now and have a few things I haven’t quite worked out.

Supports- I can choose Close or Organic (and I think one more). I always use organic and they work, but when do I want to use the other options?

How do you know (without skipping them and ruining a print) if you actually Need supports. I have printed a Lot of stuff without which printed fine where the slicer would add all sorts of supports if I let it. Is there a tuning setting I am missing? How to know? I sort of look at the print and decide it does or doesn’t and sometimes paint on a support for a portion that I think won’t survive without them. It works for me, but is kind of suboptimal.

Thoughts/discussion? What does everyone do?