In the United States, I’m curious, what insurance do you guys use? Like should I get the high deductible one or the open access one? Or something in between? Me and my wife are pretty healthy but I want to be able to go get proactive care like dermotologist, dentist cleaning, urologist, podiatrist, etc throughout the year and not get dinged for hundreds of dollars. What should I get?
For the last 2 weeks, I have not gotten a single gummy sprite from a gold fishing spot, and only got 1 galaxy sprite and it was the fishy one. Everything else has been gold and pretty trash. But today, in the span of 2 games, I got gummy striker, aura, and boss in 2 total gold fishing spots, all of which are new sprites to my index. I have searched over 100 before this. Is this just insane luck or is it boosted today?
I played Fortnite for no joke 6 hours today. I even tried some special loot routes that allegedly “had 20 sprite chests!” Even tho normally it was like 5-6. But still, I probably opened 75 sprite chests today and not one gold or galaxy sprite. It’s actually insane. Still need all zero points and grim reapers. Does anyone know if there’s some way I’m shadow banned or something? I’m not using bot lobbies, I’m playing on console and haven’t exploited any glitches. Is there a better way to be doing this?
I tried buying a 2026 rav4 LE completely base model. They wanted $35,500 otd. Seems reasonable. But they said "we have none allocated in that color, make a $1000 deposit and then we can make you first in line when one is allocated, hopefully the first week of July for an August delivery." Is this normal, and do we think they will actually get me one of these with no dealer markups when I show up, or am I gonna get sent on a wild goose chase for months. I really needed a car like yesterday, but only ok waiting because this is such a huge purchase. Any thoughts?
If I live in Texas (6.25% sales tax), and I am getting a base model LE 2026 rav4 nothing added whatsoever stormcloud blue, writing a check for 35,500 out the door. Is that a good deal?
I live by "if it's too good to be true it probably is", but how can these people list this on eBay? Every single picture is the official ball. The title is flawless. There is literally no way they can ship me a replica and claim I should've known better, right? Doesn't eBay have customer service that almost always sides with the customer? Won't they just give me my money back if its fake? So I don't understand why anyone would even do this to themselves? I am thinking about trying to get one for $30 and see how it goes but like is it just a waste of time?
I really need to know what I should do to adjust my strategy. I am taking FAR in around 30 days. I gave myself 45 total days to prep. Anyway I am working my way through Becker, and the main thing is the simulations just take SO LONG and I have heard they aren't even similar to the CPA exam. I just don't know if I can justify doing every single sim and watching every video. Are there some topics that are much more important than others, some videos I should for sure watch, and some SIMs that I should for sure do? For example, I find it hard to justify spending 30 mins relearning dollar value LIFO, but maybe I should spend a long time learning the steps to classify a finance lease. Anyway, I was just wondering from people who have taken the exam is there things that I should focus on more on Becker, I am not asking for the exam per se but just things I should focus on more on Becker. I appreciate any help from anyone, and the DMs are always open if you would prefer to talk there.
TLDR: Is it really necessary to do all the Becker SIMs or is there specific things I should focus on.
Is this a good setup for my first gaming PC? I want to be able to play Fortnite, mincraft in VR with shaders, and eventually GTA 6 (but no need for ultra ray traced whatever). Will this pc do all of this well or are there better at this price? Also, is this monitor good at this price or do I need 240 Hz? Is Newegg.com a reputable vendor, and are there other accessories I need? Maybe a DisplayPort cable and a mouse and keyboard, is that all or am I missing something?
I am a college student and just got married. My wife needs a new car. I drive a ford mustang ecoboost if that matters. I will be starting full time work in about 18 months and don't have a ton of income right now, but I will probably make around 85k when I start working. I care about RELIABILITY I don't want a car that is going to crap out on me right at 61000 miles and need a new engine or transmission. Not expecting zero issues but I can't have thousands of dollars of bills coming up out of nowhere. I am trying to decide between a Chevy Trax 2026 LT with a 23500 sticker price or a 2026 Rav4 LE with a 34500 sticker price. I can get my dad to buy it and pay him back at 0% APR over 48 months. It is a significant difference in price, but is there anything I am leaving out? We drive it maybe 10k miles per year and pretty mild. I would love to keep the car for 10+ years and not sell or upgrade anytime soon. I do care about space for when I have kids or travel. Not sure if there is anything else, but I will answer all replies with questions. I could really appreciate any guidance. So far I have heard people saying the Trax engine is 1.3 and small and will blow at 100k miles, and that there is "a timing belt that is submerged in oil and will be lucky to make it past 60k miles. If these are true, I'd rather drop the extra money on the toyota...
I am a college student and just got married. My wife needs a new car. I drive a ford mustang ecoboost if that matters. I will be starting full time work in about 18 months and don't have a ton of income right now, but I will probably make around 85k when I start working. I care about RELIABILITY I don't want a car that is going to crap out on me right at 61000 miles and need a new engine or transmission. Not expecting zero issues but I can't have thousands of dollars of bills coming up out of nowhere. I am trying to decide between a Chevy Trax 2026 LT with a 23500 sticker price or a 2026 Rav4 LE with a 34500 sticker price. I can get my dad to buy it and pay him back at 0% APR over 48 months. It is a significant difference in price, but is there anything I am leaving out? We drive it maybe 10k miles per year and pretty mild. I would love to keep the car for 10+ years and not sell or upgrade anytime soon. I do care about space for when I have kids or travel. Not sure if there is anything else, but I will answer all replies with questions. I could really appreciate any guidance. So far I have heard people saying the Trax engine is 1.3 and small and will blow at 100k miles, and that there is "a timing belt that is submerged in oil and will be lucky to make it past 60k miles. If these are true, I'd rather drop the extra money on the toyota...
My budget is $900 USD. This person on FB marketplace is asking $950 for this pc along with a 27" 240Hz AGON PRO OLED Monitor (499.99 on amazon). I know nothing about PC's but want to get into gaming (Fortnite, Minecraft virtual reality, GTA 6) and want to know if this is a decent deal or not, and if I could recoup most of my losses if I decide in 6 months that it isn't for me. Also note that it is missing the front glass panel which I have zero clue how to fix. I have cats and don't want them getting into my PC or dust. Here are the specs from the FB marketplace description and I included pictures:
Ready for smooth game play with games like Battlefield 6, Borderlands 4, Cyberpunk, GTA 6, Red Dead Redemption 2, Call of Duty, Baldur's Gate 3, Apex Legends, Fortnite, Valorant, Minecraft, Roblox, ARC Raiders, Indiana Jones, Clair Obscur, etc...
3080 vs 4070 Benchmarks:
BF6 Benchmarks: 93FPS 1440p High
All RGB and the CPU cooler display can be adjusted individually or turned OFF completely. See pictures.
GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 10GB – premium AIB model, excellent for 1440p High & solid 4K gaming.
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X – Perfect match for the 3080 and there is still room to upgrade in the future.
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120R ARGB with Digital Display – runs cool, quiet, and stylish.
Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS B550 Pro-P – premium B550 with strong VRM, dual M.2 slots, and robust I/O.
RAM: 32GB T-Force Delta R RGB 3600MHz – high-speed DDR4 with sleek RGB accents.
Storage: 1TB Crucial P310 NVMe Gen4 (7,100 MB/s) – blistering fast load/boot times.
PSU: Zalman GigaMax 700W 80+ Bronze.
Case: Showcase fishtank style with ARGB fans + pro cable mgmt = clean, premium aesthetic. 5 x 120mm case fans tuned for positive pressure (avoids dust buildup).
OS: Windows 11 Pro – activated, updated, and ready to game.
*Complimentary Windows 11 debloat available. Improves performance and removes unnecessary Windows apps and "features".
Performance: The 3080 beats the 5060ti 16gb, 9060xt 16gb and matches the 4070.
100+ FPS at 1440p High in modern titles Smooth 4K gaming performance.
Triple AAA games high refresh rate
Fcfs. Cash only. No trades- price to sell.
Note: only thing that’s wrong with it it’s missing front glass panel.
My budget is $900 USD. This person on FB marketplace is asking $950 for this pc along with a 27" 240Hz AGON PRO OLED Monitor (499.99 on amazon). I know nothing about PC's but want to get into gaming (Fortnite, Minecraft virtual reality, GTA 6) and want to know if this is a decent deal or not, and if I could recoup most of my losses if I decide in 6 months that it isn't for me. Also note that it is missing the front glass panel which I have zero clue how to fix. I have cats and don't want them getting into my PC or dust. Here are the specs from the FB marketplace description and I included pictures:
Ready for smooth game play with games like Battlefield 6, Borderlands 4, Cyberpunk, GTA 6, Red Dead Redemption 2, Call of Duty, Baldur's Gate 3, Apex Legends, Fortnite, Valorant, Minecraft, Roblox, ARC Raiders, Indiana Jones, Clair Obscur, etc...
3080 vs 4070 Benchmarks:
BF6 Benchmarks: 93FPS 1440p High
All RGB and the CPU cooler display can be adjusted individually or turned OFF completely. See pictures.
GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 10GB – premium AIB model, excellent for 1440p High & solid 4K gaming.
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X – Perfect match for the 3080 and there is still room to upgrade in the future.
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120R ARGB with Digital Display – runs cool, quiet, and stylish.
Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS B550 Pro-P – premium B550 with strong VRM, dual M.2 slots, and robust I/O.
RAM: 32GB T-Force Delta R RGB 3600MHz – high-speed DDR4 with sleek RGB accents.
Storage: 1TB Crucial P310 NVMe Gen4 (7,100 MB/s) – blistering fast load/boot times.
PSU: Zalman GigaMax 700W 80+ Bronze.
Case: Showcase fishtank style with ARGB fans + pro cable mgmt = clean, premium aesthetic. 5 x 120mm case fans tuned for positive pressure (avoids dust buildup).
OS: Windows 11 Pro – activated, updated, and ready to game.
*Complimentary Windows 11 debloat available. Improves performance and removes unnecessary Windows apps and "features".
Performance: The 3080 beats the 5060ti 16gb, 9060xt 16gb and matches the 4070.
100+ FPS at 1440p High in modern titles Smooth 4K gaming performance.
Triple AAA games high refresh rate
Fcfs. Cash only. No trades- price to sell.
Note: only thing that’s wrong with it it’s missing front glass panel.
I need some candid honesty from people with CPA's right now. And I am not asking if it was worth it to get a CPA 10 years ago so you have it now. But is it really worth it to pursue my CPA right now, in a time where AI is growing so fast? AI 3 years ago was still pretty rough. And now it can pass the CPA exam with over a 90%. Is it still worth getting a 4 year accounting degree, getting a 1 year MAcc to get enough credits to sit, and grinding your butt off to take all 4 of these grueling exams? I just find it so unmotivating to study when I worry by the time I pass all these exams a year from now, there will be nowhere to find a job and there will be very little use for CPA's, even in the sense of people needing to file income taxes because they can use turbotax for cheaper. Will I put myself through this hell for no reason? Are there people here in 2026 who did not get laid off because they had a CPA while non CPA counterparts didn't? Can anyone provide me any reason to still get a CPA 3 years from now? Like essentially what I am asking is if I should keep pursuing this (I already have my bachelors in accounting and finance, and am finishing up my masters of accountancy, currently studying for FAR, and I want to go work as an auditor at a big 4 (not KPMG, and I already have a job offer for fall 2027, but I know I am expendable to those companies and they can fire me at anytime, even before work starts if they feel like it) or if I should just stop and go to trade school to be a welder, electrician, carpenter, plumber, etc as those are the most millionaires in America besides teachers. I am currently 22 if that changes anything. I really just need to know if its worth pursuing or if there's other stuff to pursue.
After answering the above, I guess consider I want to make like 250k per year (over 45 years, so if I made 1 million at 64, that means I could make zero from 23-26, just has to average to like 250k per year) but really step 1 is I just want to make enough to provide for 2 people on a single income.
I have been going through Becker and by far the hardest thing for me has been the sims or task based simulations (TBS). I'm sure this is the experience for most people. The hard thing about them is not the material, but the extremely stupid format and trying to balance 11 exhibits on my laptop. I am confident if I had a pen and paper I would do at least 10% better on the exam. But anyway, people are saying the sims on the actual FAR exam are HARDER and MORE confusing to work with than Becker. I am not sure why they make the technology the hardest portion of the exam. I genuienly find figuring out how to use everything and where to even start harder than the actual accounting part. But anyway, my question is, is there any way to prepare for the ridiculousness that is the FAR TBS's? Or is it just a sort of pray everyone else does bad too type of thing? For example, on some of the Becker ones, I might miss 12 out of 16 boxes because I just typed positive numbers in all the boxes or either put a zero when nothing was needed or omitted a zero when nothing was needed. I honestly can't see scoring above a 50 on the TBS as reasonable given there's so much material to cover, so how can I get a 75? Is there any way to practice realistic ones or is Becker the closest I will get?
I am a very casual gamer. Think it would be fun to try out VR. I am a college student, not a massive budget. A guy on Facebook marketplace is selling a quest 2 for 130 but I talked him down to $100. Said it’s been used like 3-4 times and he bought it new a year ago. I don’t have a gaming PC. Is this worth buying? I don’t even know what games I’d play like beatsaber is $30 and what other games even are there? In my mind it would be cool to have, and I’d love to do fun ones where you cast it on the tv for everyone to watch. Anyway, I know it’s “losing support” in December, so is it still worth $100 or nah?
