I keep missing the moon/venus passing and am wondering if there is software to use that can tell me ahead of time when the moon will be close to venus so I can try to get ahead of the imaging?
Both iphone and dwarf devices if that matters. Ideally it would give me a day or so heads up.
Brand new V3, updated software and enabled rtsp. I figured the that the official code would work better than the sd card hacks I've been doing on older cameras.
Goal: get it working on blue iris.
So first I tested with VLC - On my Mac it works great, with or without the credentials in the URL.
On my windows 11 - firewall disabled, inbound disabled. Nothing works. VLC can't connect but flplayer gives me:
[tcp @ 0000019621fc4840] Starting connection attempt to 192.168.4.144 port 554
[tcp @ 0000019621fc4840] Successfully connected to 192.168.4.144 port 554
[rtsp @ 0000019626dbce80] Failed reading RTSP data: Error number -10054 occurred
rtsp://<secret stuff>@192.168.4.144:554/steam0: Invalid data found when processing input
nan : 0.000 fd= 0 aq= 0KB vq= 0KB sq= 0B
I'm puzzled and note that I have 12 other cameras running rtsp on this box. I stepped from wyze for rtsp for awhile but am looking to try again. Note that I have a couple outdoor cameras on my wyze account and they + this camera all work just fine.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Decided to try the V3 since rtsp is supposed to be baked in. I'm on the latest non-beta release and got the device today so it's pretty fresh (I would guess).
When I try to use rtsp I have the following:
OSX: Works in VLC and testing with ffplay.
Win11 (intel): VLC says it can't open the stream.
ffplay says:
[rtsp @ 00000214d85b3580] Failed reading RTSP data: End of file
rtsp://192.168.4.144:554/steam0: Invalid data found when processing input
nan : 0.000 fd= 0 aq= 0KB vq= 0KB sq= 0B
Same results if I do rest://user:pass@....
Any get rtsp working on Win11?
I just discovered that I didn't trade my 13 mini in and so I figure it would work on my flight deck. BUT I don't have a sim card. So I'm curious is any of the apps (Wingman, Gaggle, SeeYou, etc) allow for preloading maps and airports?
Some people need wifi cameras, it's just a fact of life and I'm one of those. I got a Tapo C110 awhile back and it's been great, so I figured I can add a C120 and it sux big time. 1: BI doesn't see motion, probably because 2: I get the incurable 'Frame bottleneck' error. I'm running stream2 (.9mpix) and even that is not working.
So, I decided to get another C110, why not, the current one works great. Well my new $30 C110 also throws the Frame error and I think I know why.
Digging into the Tapo app settings - The old C110 is hardware version 2.0 and the new one is 3.0. It's interesting because the old one is on software 1.4.7 and the new one says the latest is 1.3.0ish.
I don't want to dump big $$ on the cameras, they sit in a window and watch for bears and coyotes so it's nothing critical.
It's just frustrating but understandable, sort of like the Wyse downhill slide.
If anyone has found a *cheap* wifi camera that actually works please let me know.
I’m taking my mini with me on a vacation where I’m limited in space so I’m looking for a tripod that I can do eq mode and not have the mini tip over. It needs to fit in a backpack where I don’t have a lot of space.
I know that I can try to weigh down the tripod but it would be great if I didn’t have to.
Thanks for any suggestions
I was looking for a sub-100 dollar video only glasses to use in sports. I just picked up the OHO sunshine 1080p glasses. Note that it doesn't have stabilization but I use gyroflow offline to cleanup the videos.
Attached is a frame grab to show that the quality is not that bad, note that reddit will probably downscale the image a bit and this is actually a frame grab. The glasses do take photos but that's not my use case so I'm focused on video only.
There is walking jitter (as expected) but the image seems to handle sun to shade transitions pretty well.
Battery life is more the 40 minutes based on 2 tests where I ran till dead
Pros: (based on a comparison of my other glasses (iVue Denali).
1: you can tell if it's recording by looking to the upper right. This works well in all but very bright sunshine.
2: these are better looking than the Denali which were larger and didn't fit my head as well.
3: pretty good quality
Nits:
1: There is no way to tell the battery level since there is no app to connect with.
2: Lack of vibration (compared to the Denali) means that you only have the led as a feedback mechanism. The vibration on the Denali is really nice when in the middle of doing a sport.
3: Movement is not stabilized and it's surprising how much I move my head when walking/running/biking. I'm working on a gyroflow template to stabilize the videos in post.
TLDR;
For 99 bucks+tax they are decent glasses with some limitations to be expected at that price.
I forgot I had this. This year I decided to point my D3 at a local fireworks show and the results are pretty interesting.
Heading to Columbia in Dec and have a question for people who have already been.
1: What did you forget that you should have brought?
2: What did you think you needed (and brought) but didn't really need?
EDIT:
10 days, flying into Cali, heading to Piedichinche. Staying there the whole time and I think I have the gear figured out but have questions on clothing, stuff and more stuff.
We are finally getting to the time of the year when M31 is above the horizon at my location (Bortle 8 sadly). Here are 2 images that straight from the scopes. Untouched aside from the export from photos and whatever reddit does for compression.
The 'larger' M31 is the Mini. I'm impressed and hope to get both scopes up to some better dark skies this summer. Note that the capture was 30sec, non-EQ for ~2 hours. I didn't get a count of the rejected shots.
I have rainbird R-Van heads but the 360s are 8-14 foot throw and I really need 6 foot or less. I don't see short throw heads available. Any suggestions on a solution?
I'm trying to add the moon to my schedule for capture a couple hours later but can't seem to figure out the atlas scheduling. I know the moon is below the horizon but it will rise in a couple hours so I'm trying to set something up before I crash.
Any thoughts? I looked in the manual, tried using the time control but nothing seems to take.
I'm not a diver but like to try to follow the sport/science. So I'm reading this article:
https://indepthmag.com/the-case-for-deep-hydrogen-diving-and-biochemical-decompression/
And this sentence stuck out:
A couple of days before the end of the bottom time, the diver would prepare to biochemically decompress as a supplement to the physical decompression.
Do divers actually spend days deep down or they implying that this would be days before they even go down. I'm guessing a lot of this is military based but it just puzzled me.
My brother has a Moro 05 that he got back when Yamaha had that big product dump. It’s a cool bike and rides well. I’m visiting from and took it for a ride and he commented that I shouldn’t change the power mode while moving and should stop. That’s really strange to me but he said the manual says so.
I looked for the manual online but didn’t find anything about that.
Anyone heard this as well? It goes against how my bikes work.
With my GoPro 13 I can setup a nightlapse and catch the sunset, stars through the night and sunrise. With my AcePro2 I either get the sunset then black and the sunrise or I get blown out sunset (totally white) and some stars and then blown out sunrise.
Anyone have luck getting sunset->stars->sunrise?
I just got my mini to compliment my d3. The size surprised me, I was expecting it to be larger and it's just a cool little device.
But it appears that I can't tell, based on the filename, if the image came from a D3 or Mini?
So I would like to log a suggestion to include the device name in the filename. With the upcoming D4 or D4mini :-) It will really help.
I just started trying mosaics and they are pretty cool. But I have a question.
The captured/final image has lines in it and I'm wondering if stellar studio is the only way to clean them up? Not a big deal but I'm just trying to understand the options with mosaics.
I'm heading up to Burke Mt for a few days and am looking for any feedback on a good place to rent a bike (actually 2) for 4 days. It looks like the mountain only does a 10AM->Closing rentals. Favoring emtb because I'm old and out of shape.
Non-pro person (with a pro account). I've just playing around but am trying to figure out the best way to accomplish the following:
1: Start some work on my desktop (Mac mini)
2: Decide to go outside and work so I grab my laptop
3: Continue the work there
4: Switch back at some point.
What I tried:
put the .cursor into iCloud, and the projects there as well. Then created a symlink back to ~/.cursor and symlink the project back to ~/
But I'm reading that this isn't the best way, even though I can tell iCloud to always keep the files local so that would solve the issue of iCloud purging files for space.
Is there a better way or thoughts on how to accomplish this.
I have a cable tester that tells me if the cable is capable of doing PD3.x but I'm looking for a tester that will tell me if the charger is actually putting out 3.x current/voltage. I'm aware that it's really the device that's being charged that does the talking but I'm doubting that my chargers are working correctly.
So anyone find a tool that tests the actual delivery current?