u/Williwoo321

Ok I’ve replaced the water pump, timing belt and the tensioner, using the crankshaft pulley I manually turned over the engine so the cam gear and fuel pump did two full rotations. All the marks line up I just need to put the rest back together and hope it doesn’t blow up when I start it

Yea so my 80 series has been having headlight issues. I’ve probably made post about this before but things keep changing. Original owner had LEDs, I went back to halogens. Original owner got wiring “upgrade”, fuse box melted, short circuiting, headlights work even when fuse blown, don’t know where to start don’t know how to fix, don’t want to pay $800 for sparky. How to fix?

Or is it better that it just works?

Those melted fuse spots are for the headlights, the original owner of my 80 series ran 25 amp fuses instead of the original 15s. I managed to get them working for a short while but now I’m at a point where the upper just keeps blowing meaning there’s a short somewhere. All the other fuses are fine. Since the plastic has melted around the wires it will be impossible to remove those terminals, so I’m just wondering if it’s a good idea to get a small external fuse box, cut the original wires and extend them to the new box with the proper 15 amp fuses.

When I bought my 80 series I got a mate to drive it home for me, he said it was all over the road and had to keep it around 70 km and hour just to keep her strait. Drive 1.5 hours home and when I took the rear hubs apart I found this

I am concerned about is this suspicious lump in the brake line of my 80 series

So I got myself a brand new hub for my 1994 80 series Land Cruiser 1HZ manual and I’m assembling the hub, I was always told to use an old bearing race to install the new one, I did exactly that however I neglected to notice that I was installing the race in way that meant I could no longer remove the old one. Any advice on how to remove the old race?

Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series, 1HZ manual… idk man. I managed to cut the bearing race loose with only minimal damage to the housing. I found these under it. They aren’t mine, at least not the big one since I cut in the other direction. The bearing will go on but it is a very tight fit. I’m just wondering if this is even fixable, I’ve been sitting out here for two hours with 250 grit sand paper and the bearing isn’t fitting any better. I don’t want to resort to power tools out of risking damaging it further. I could really use some advice

So im doing the rear brakes and hub grease on my 80 series Land Cruiser, his manual. I’m trying to remove this bearing race, I don’t have an angle grinder, the puller I bought doesn’t fit, and all my chisels are blunt. I don’t know what to do

Hi me again. So I’m getting my 80 series Toyota Land Cruiser manual 1HZ ready for it’s road worthy’s but I’m having issues with my head lights. I switched the aftermarket LEDs for brand new halogens. The 1st an 2nd images display my headlights when in the low beam position. Outer right: high beam, inner right: high beam, inner left: nothing, outer left: very dim low beam. Images 3 and 4 display in the high beam position, outer right: low beam, inner right: faint glow, inner left: faint glow, outer left: normal low beam. Help I don’t know what to do and I don’t want to call some sparky to over charge me

I’m currently getting my 80 series Land Cruiser ready for its road worthy’s and to that I needed new wheels. Let’s just say the current ones were too big and bald to pass. I saw these factory spec 80 series wheels on facebook marketplace and they looked to have about 40%-50% of their tread which would have been perfect. When arrive at the blokes house to pick them up I discovered that they probably had well over 80% tread left, the rims only had a bit of rust, bonus spider web in the spare. I don’t know how much these wheels are actually worth, but it’s definitely more than the $350 I paid for them. Five big tires in near new condition for $350??!! bargain!!!

So I’m trying to get my 80 series Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ manual ready for its road worthy inspection and I’ve been having issues with the headlights. The original owner installed aftermarket LED headlights and in their infinite wisdom decided to run 25 amp fuses in a circuit that should only be running 15. And the consequence of their actions is the fuses melting that part of the fuse box, I’ve got new fuses but I’m unsure of the actual remedy. Im open to suggestions but right now my plan is I cut the wires and extend them slightly with new pins to a different part of the fuse box and run standard 15 amp fuses.

It’s an 80 series Toyota Land Cruiser, manual, naturally aspirated diesel strait 6. It needs some repairs but I’m willing to put in the work