u/besttype

I'm planning on getting the Aura 3 Max but confused about the engineering of ALR screens for UST projectors and how much speckle they produce from typical 3-laser RGB DLP projectors like the aura 3 max.

My experience with any ALR screens paired with RGB DLPs is that speckle is a BIG problem. And I've been through a lot of projectors AND screens (Horizon 20 max, Dangbei S7 ulta max, Xgimi Titan AND the Xgimi Titan Noir Max). Screens with any amount of ALR always produce a ton of speckle (OG Titan excluded), so I'm very curious about how/why a UST ALR screen wouldn't be really speckle-y.

Does anyone have direct experiences on this?

I'm jumping back into Openclaw With the 2.0 release after giving up in May, after very poor experience with memory recall and instability.

I'm trying to be much more intentional on the memory side of things, and I don't see enough improvements with the default approach. So I'm wanting to use G-Brain if only to create an archive I can later draw from, given that it's basically just a markdown files at the bottom of the stack that are easily exported.

Does anyone that's integrated gBrain successfully have any notes on how you coordinate that with any default or native memory actions by OpenClaw 2.0?

It seems like both approaches have an overnight dreaming process in order to keep the archive up to date. Is the approach just to have a little bit of operational memory in the memory.md file alongside a pointer to the GBrain MCP for everything else? Did you turn off native dreaming to avoid redundancy? At the end of the day, do you think gBrain was the right solution? I'm using OC 60% for personal automation and 40% solopreneur.

Focusing first on stability, not on sheer performance. Is there a consensus in the community on which is the better CPU brand?

I have a workshop with several different TVs on different walls. I'd love to have macros that work without pointing the U3 remote at them.

The Bluetooth library is very slim on brands and the generic Android Box and AndroidTV options don't even have "input" buttons assignable. I have a samsung, an xgimi, and a Hisense. The xgimi bluetooth library works great, but there aren't any for Hisense and Samsung.

I have tried to add an IR button on top of the standard bluetooth commands but the remote isn't actually sending out an IR signal when hitting the input button, so I can't learn it. That means I have to downgrade to the full IR remote option.

Seems like OK and Input are the buttons not working for the typical androidTV smart TV. D-pad and back usually works.

EDIT: I found a bandaid solution to the original remote defaulting to bluetooth from an older post here on this subreddit. if you un-pair the remote from the original tv, it'll (probably) defualt back to IR which lets you learn from it. I have not done this yet because It's a luxury feature I can live without and I really don't want ot figure out how to re-pair this random remote with this random tv.

Still so surprised that the ecosystem for IR commands is still so messy. I've held off buying a harmony/sofabaton for years, assuming that when I finally jumped it, it would be very mature. Instead, there's like 4+ libraries for a single Denon X4800h.

Luba 2 AWD 10000HX
Started having dodgy network connections for a couple weeks. Would have to power cycle to get it to show as connected so I can manually tap several buttons on my phone for it to just keep on mowing.

Now it won't even connect at all. I can power cycle. I DID REMOVE AND RE-INSERT THE ORANGE FUSE

1. failed to connect to a pixel 9 AND an iphone 17
2. will make startup sounds (sword) and "charging" voice notifications when manually pushed onto charger
3. no bluetooth connection available
4. no connection available in the app (via wifi (which requires working mammotion servers))
5. device firmware is 1.15.21.1
6. I have 7 minute video of the malfunction
7. android and ios app both fully updated
8. Have kept the thing garaged for its entire season. This is its first season as it was a new replacement for a failed motor from last season
9. My Unifi U6 LR AP is 10 feet from the mower
10. My unifi controller shows NO Luba/Mammotion device on the network

*edit more bullet points

I'm switching from android to apple and appreciated a deep library of alert/motion tones on Android that I can't find on Apple. When adjusting the alert tone for motion or a doorbell ring it only shows the default set of Ring 1st party tones (windchimes, etc).

How can I add custom tones? For example, I use a car honk sound to let me know someone's on the driveway, etc.

Anyone get one of the larger kits from his website before they sold out?

(I am not this person, just a fan, genuinely)

• 25k Fiberglass
• Salt Gen (aquapure)
• Jandy / iaqualink (I hate this app)
• 2.7HP Jandy VS Flopro
• No trees, 100% sun, Zone 7B
• Electric Heater set to 79º
• I hate pool covers. tried them, hate them. would rather spend money on heater.

Because of Zone 7B, I want to minimize heat loss at night, so I'm torn between using my VS pump as it's designed and ramping RPM down to 1200 or lower at night vs just turning it off for 12 hours. I can still easily get 1.5-2 turns of the pool water during the day, and the water chem is easy to keep chlorinated.

Mama Cass got done dirty, yet again

I have a 4.2 system with 4x Q1 Metas in a workshop crossed over at 80hz with 2x SVS Micro 3000s Revo subs. I put the foam plugs into to fully seal the speakers and smooth the crossover to the subs. It's a big 24x36 space so I am driving them loudly enough to fill the room.

BUT the damn plugs won't stay in. The woofer is blowing them out and im finding them on the floor the next day. I am pushing them in as far as possible while still having a reliable chance of pulling them back out (don't want to lose them inside the port or enclosure)

I could 3d print something but im assuming foam is the right solution for absorbing resonance. Should I put them in loosely and cap them with a 3d printed cap? or would the cap introduce resonance by acting as a hard reflective surface? Is there some other recommended solution here?

EDIT:
To be fair, I've been hitting that KEXP recording of Angine De Poitrine pretty hard over the past week. on reflection, that can't be helping.

I don't get what the practical difference is between the new Agent SDK for Claude vs what I've been using for a couple weeks: Claude CLI. Openclaw is just using a local install of Claude Code via its CLI to wire in Opus 4.7 as an agent.

I don't even think openclaw via Claude CLI is disapproved as a mode of interface (but maybe now it is?). I'm hardly a power user so maybe i haven't tripped up any usage limits that would get my harness red flagged.