u/biggranny000

It was also a hatch which was superb for practicality, sport and luxury package, and some other options.

I had it about 6 years ago. Only had it 6 months before buying another car.

I averaged 32-45 mpg depending on how and where I was driving.

I did LED fog lights and headlights (yes I properly aimed and rotated them so I don't blind people), I did switch the fog light trim and grill for the titanium which I did second guess, and I had a 2nd set of 16" SE snow tires in perfect shape for $200.

I went 20 Hyundai Elantra GT N-line, I got 5k off and sold it 2 years later for more money. Then 22 WRX because I wanted a manual and something faster, and now I have a 25 GTI which kind of reminds me of the focus but it's way faster.

The order of the photos got screwed up

$525 for used OEM mk8 rims (they have a lot of blemishes and micro scratches but I'm ok with that for the price, and I don't want something nice for winter)

$410 for marked down 2023 Blizzak LM005, they have the full warranty

$40 at discount tire to mount and balance. (Super professional and fast)

Maybe $40 in gas for traveling to pick up the wheels and the tire shop.

It's been awhile since I had snow tires, I had a 05 focus with Blizzak WS-90, that car felt unstoppable but the blizzaks were very squirmy, I had a 16 Ford focus with Michelin XI3, and a 20 Hyundai Elantra GT N-line with Michelin X-ice snows. I usually survive on all seasons just fine but snow tires felt so confident.

Just gonna keep running my stock perelli p-zero all seasons until they're bald unless I find a good deal on summer tires. They were surprisingly decent in the snow. I'll swap over once the forecast gets sketchy.

Wheel weight: 26lbs

Tire weight: 20lbs

Sprayed off then sprayed with Adams wheel cleaner, scrubbed, washed, then air and towel dried. Then stored inside with bags.

The car was leaning extremely hard to the right. Mind you these are busy 35-45mph roads with 3 lanes of traffic, pedestrians, bikers, etc. I made sure to keep my distance so I don't get hit when their tire gives up.

I can feel a difference in a few psi between tires especially on autocross, I don't know how you don't notice flat tires.

The left side also looks low but I could be wrong.

Also missing trim on their tail gate

Also with gas prices at $5/gallon that mpg gotta be horrible lol

They are from 2023 but regardless amazing deal and still have a full warranty. Even if they only last 2 years that's $200/year on tires.

I also got a 2nd set of OEM wheels, I think this is a near perfect combo for my climate, type of car, and for under 1k.

I'll make sure to post a review during our upcoming winter. They have tested the best in the wet, solid in the dry and snow, almost lowest rolling resistance, solid comfort and noise in tyre review's tests for performance winter tires.

The blizzak 6 came out to replace these, it will be interesting to see how Bridgestone improved it.

Bridgestone is also releasing the icepeak soon to replace the WS-90. The WS-90 is still king for snow and ice grip but it really sucks for lateral, dry, and wet grip.

Michelin is also coming out with the x-ice snow+ soon, I had x-ice snow on a 20 Hyundai Elantra GT N-line and really liked them. I also had WS90 on a 05 focus and that little car was a beast in the snow with those blizzaks.

Tried to add a little chrome to the outside. Chrome handles come in tomorrow, hoping they wont look to over the top. I dont want the look that screams cheap autozone add on, fake chrome any more then i have to. But i like the look of chrome. Couple ideas for rims would like to up the rim size at least an inch. Till i can afford them i might spend a little less and opt for red calipers. Finishing interior trim then nexts is front splitter rear spoiler.

Currently have a 25 GTI S. I have about 10k miles and my stock perelli p-zero all seasons have 6/32nds tread left. The tread wear is really starting to slow down, I wonder if it's a dual compound tire. However the car bogs and struggles to put power down usually until 50mph in the dry, in the wet it never grips. In the snow they were surprisingly decent. I'm very tempted to sell my stock tires (although I doubt I would get much), and really enjoy the car this year with brand new summer tires. I also plan on autocrossing again. I currently can't use launch control, the car bogs so hard because it tries it's hardest to prevent wheel spin.

I saw a guy on YouTube with a 300hp club sport GTI and the difference between a summer tire and all weather tire for acceleration, braking, and handling was very dramatic. I figured my experience would be similar.

I was considering the pilot sport 4S, continental DWS 06, and kumho Ecsta Sport S. As much as a track tire is tempting I can't see myself reasonably dailying that, especially if it were to start raining.

As winter and safety takes priority and I figured my stock perelli p-zeros will quickly get sketchy as they wear, I recently got a 2nd set of OEM wheels for $550 after travel expenses, and then a crazy deal on blizzak LM-005 from 2023 for $400 on tire rack, they still have the full warranty. I'll then have to find a shop to mount and balance but I will deep clean them and store them inside with bags. I figured for around 1k for stock wheels and some really good snow tires is good.

I live in Michigan but usually the winters are cold, dry, and wet. Maybe 20% of the time it's slush, snow, and ice. And driving a hot hatch a performance winter tire honestly made more sense anyway. Extreme winter tires are so squishy and suck in the wet and dry, but they just go through snow and ice like nothing.

I recently put crossclimate 2s on my gf's 19 Nissan Sentra, she doesn't have a lot of money but I told her that ideally you want to get 2 sets of wheels, one summer and one winter. On an eco-box though it probably can't even use a summer tire. I don't like how squishy or noisy the tires are but they do good enough in the dry, wet, and snow. On ice they are still a little sketchy. We also both noticed a drop in mpg.

To anyone curious: This OEM wheel weighs ~26 lbs, just did a comparison with my own body and body + wheel on a scale. They are heavy but also aerodynamic. If you want to improve your car's performance definitely get lighter wheels.

Honestly the stock perelli p-zero all seasons weren't too bad in the snow, the worst was when I was pushing snow with my bumper. I have survived for years on and off with all seasons in bad conditions and various cars, it is indeed mostly skill but only to some extent. Just going slow and braking early has worked 100% of the time for me. You can brake later and drive faster if you have good tires, which can save you time and money. But snow tires made such a huge difference I wanted to get some again, especially on a FWD car. The main thing is maintaining grip no matter how cold it gets, and if it saves you from an accident or sliding into a ditch, they already pay for themselves.

All seasons also start to really suck once they get some tread wear and age.

Got some decent condition stock wheels for $525 (had to travel a bit, but that's fine), and blizzak LM-005 which are a performance winter tire for $410. Installation will probably be around $100 but I'll call around.

I live in Michigan and want to maintain the hot hatch feel so a performance winter tire makes sense for me. Most cold days are dry or wet, and sometimes there's bad snow or ice storms but they last a few weeks at most. Sure I won't have the grip of an extreme winter tire, but I also won't have to deal with the annoyances of an extreme winter tire (like the poor wet and dry grip, and sloppy steering).

I actually don't mind the stock wheels.

If anyone wants a comparison of this vs the stock all seasons in a few months, let me know, I will likely post about it.

As far as my main set of wheels which are perfect still I'll just burn up the stock tires in the warm months until they are unsafe in the wet, used tires aren't really worth much especially with mine being at 6/32nds and chewed up. Then replace with some good summer tires.

Never tried a performance winter tire but in Michigan normally the weather is just cold, wet, and dry. And a few weeks out of the year it can get pretty snowy and icy but it usually only lasts for a week or two at a time.

These were highly praised by tyre reviews. Performed the best in the wet, solid in the dry, and mid-pack in snow and ice. Low rolling resistance and good comfort and noise.

I plan on getting some stock wheels and throwing these tires on there. Should be much better in the snow compared to the stock all seasons.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+LM005&partnum=24VR8LM005XLOS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Volkswagen&autoYear=2025&autoModel=Golf%20GTI&autoModClar=225%2F40-18

I recently did rear drum shoes and brake fluid on my gf's car. Her rear brake shoes were low but the rear drums look fine (no I did not use any tools to accurately check them). I didn't change the fronts at first because they looked to have plenty of life. Brake fluid was absolutely horrible and likely never done.

Car has 110k miles.

The car had a small vibration when first getting on the brakes, but after a second or so it would stop.

Vibration is fixed and it seems like the brakes bite harder and earlier. The pedal is softer and easier to push (for the same if not more braking force), pedal is also more consistent and linear (before it seemed like as you were braking and lowering speed the brake pressure would slightly change, again could have been the contaminated fluid).

Went with powestop Z17 geomet coated rotors and ceramic pads for low noise and dust. Also went with blanks for cost and for less risk of cracking, highest stopping power, and best life. Coated rotors look good and resist rust.

This car's brakes are too small, you can't activate ABS even when it's raining on crossclimate 2 all weather tires, so the tires are overpowering the brakes. If it was my car I would have considered upgrading to larger brakes and converting the rears to disc.

I wanted to save my gf money, I just had her buy parts and I installed them. This is my first time doing brakes.

I also cleaned up and regreased everything including the hardware and pad contact points and the slide pins. I also cleaned up the rust on the calipers and wheel hubs.

I also broke the new brakes in by doing 30 30mph-5mph aggressive braking (first started with 30%, then around 50% then 70%), and 30 second breaks in between. It took awhile then I drove for awhile to let them cool off but barely touched the brakes during that period.

COSTS:

~$5 for shop towels (I have more).

~$8 for permatex silicone brake grease, good for -50f to 1800f. (I have more).

~$20 in brake cleaner (I have more now).

~$110 for front rotors

~$25 for ceramic pads

~$26 for Wagner rear drum shoes

~$15 for 3 bottles of supertech brake fluid to flush the brake system.

In total I redid almost everything involving brakes for around $200. I guess I used the original drums, calipers, and brake caliper brackets, slide pins, etc, but nearly everyone does.

2019 Nissan Sentra SV 110k miles. all original parts. Used lots of brake cleaner. (Gf's car, it's not mine).

Forgot to get after pictures. The brake fluid was atrocious, it was full of particles and bubbles but despite that no serious symptoms. Pedal takes less effort and is more linear and predictable. We had a brake fluid pump in the reservoir then bled each wheel starting with the furthest to closest. We completely flushed each bleeder until it was 100% clean.

Drums are a pain but it should last another 100k. We really struggled with the springs. Small pliers and flatheads can be helpful.

Brake fluid was $15, 3 32oz of supertech DOT 3 (you don't need this much but I wanted a serious flush).

Wagner brake shoes for $26.

Unfortunately there still is a small vibration with light braking so I'll recommend my gf replace the front rotors and pads despite the pads having some life, the rotors look a little spicy and are likely warped. It's just the shoes (one on each axle) was super low so that was a priority.

New shoes were $26 from wagner and brake fluid was $15. All of the rear hardware and drums looked fine so I recommended my gf just to get new shoes. They had a little life left but 1 shoe on each drum was really low.

2019 Nissan Sentra SV with 110k miles. Pretty sure on the original brake fluid and original rear brakes.

Got 3 bottles of 32oz supertech dot3 fluid (you can get away with less but I did an extreme amount of flushing), the fluid was extremely dark and full of particles and some air bubbles. We kept flushing until it was light green clear. We used a pump in the reservoir and bled from passenger rear to driver rear, to the fronts. Each bleed/flush was super dirty.

Drums are a pain to work on, we used pliers, flathead screwdrivers, etc.

We then took the car for a spin and drove like a Nissan driver to break in the new shoes. The pedal feels more linear and responsive, and surprisingly the pedal feels softer, it may because the old fluid was thicker. It's not soft in a bad way, it just takes less effort for more braking power.

Is it normal for new Nissan's to have this horrible of a panel fitment? I've never noticed this before was gonna tell buddy his hood was open tell I released that's just how it looks closed.

Not audible was the driver yelling and cussing us out for not stopping.

2019 Nissan Sentra SV. The car has 110k on it, brakes have never been serviced (I wasn't dating her until about a year ago).

The rotor itself looks fine, but I told her she needs to buy new rear drums and shoes. A lot of kits have new hardware.

This is after hitting everything with brake clean, there was an entire pile of brake dust coming out which that weight and centrifugal force and contamination in my opinion could cause a light vibration.

The left shoes leading towards the front of the car are definitely toast. They are nearly on metal.