u/bmene

I recently traded my Zenith Chronomaster Original for a Chronomaster Revival A3817. While both are incredible watches, the A3817 has some significant advantages that have made it a much stronger fit for my personal collection.

The A3817’s design is quintessentially Zenith. It combines the tonneau case of the A384 with the tri-color dial of the A386, and is obviously powered by the legendary El Primero movement. This is Zenith’s Greatest Hits put into one package.

About that package… at 37mm in diameter and 12mm thin, the tonneau case looks and wears like nothing else. The sharp angles give it a retro and modern look at the same time. It sits incredibly comfortably on the wrist, whereas the Chronomaster Original sits high on the edges due to the straighter lugs. This is one of the main points in favor of the A3817 for my taste. It just feels right. The finishing on the face of the case is compelling, with a radial brush finish that draws attention to the iconic dial, contrasted with the polished sides.

The dial is vibrant and distinct. There’s a lot happening here, but it never feels disjointed or overdone. I’ve always been a fan of the tri-color overlapping subdials on the matte white dial, and this is my favorite execution due to the bright blue markers and hand on the 9-o’clock running seconds subdial. It adds an extra pop that’s absent in the Chronomaster Original. The red paddle hand is another touch of color that adds depth and interest. I’m not usually a fan of faux-tina, but the execution here feels appropriate, not like it’s trying to look vintage. I actually appreciate it. The sharktooth 1/10th markers are visually striking, but they do make minute legibility challenging at first. If I’m being picky, I wish there was only two lines of text on the dial: “Zenith El Primero”. That’s something that the Chronomaster Original has over the A3817. Another aspect I miss from the Original are the curved tips on the hands.

I appreciate having the pulsometer and tachymeter scales on the outer edge. It’s another point of differentiation for an already unique piece. And, much more useful than the 1/10th scales present on the Chronomaster Original, which always felt a bit gimmicky. The minute totalizer 3 o’clock subdial works in my preferred way: jumping hand snapping to each minute marker versus continuously running.

Now, the movement. Beating at 5Hz, the El Primero calibre 400 is a joy to look at, and it feels solid with its column wheel and horizontal clutch. It’s rare for a movement to be more famous than the watch itself, but it’s understandably so.

I much prefer this piece on Zenith’s high quality leather strap versus the ladder bracelet, both for the comfort and the looks.

Zenith’s Revival series are an impressive effort to offer vintage watches with modern materials, and the A3817 is done tastefully and with excellence. I don’t think this one is ever leaving the collection.

Every watch influencer out there sings the praises of the Hamilton Murphy, so when I had the chance to spend some time with it, I jumped on the opportunity.

After spending some time with the 39mm version, I continue to be disappointed by Hamilton’s watches. They’re heralded as great value, but I always come out thinking they’re overpriced after handling one in the metal. Lackluster finishing, clumsy designs, and just plain uninspired.

This one in particular felt like very expensive costume jewelry, especially because it was released AFTER a movie appearance, not before. I know… every watch is a bit of cosplay (not many of us are going into outer space or racing Le Mans), but this one is just too on the nose.

I love GS’s movement innovations, but their design language is stuffy and geriatric. No, I don’t want an old-looking drapery design on my wrist anymore than I want to wear my grandpa’s trousers. I’d be shocked if that target audience is any younger than 60… or there are some really old-soul 20-something’s out there.

EDIT: someone correctly pointed out that grandpas have style… it’s grandma’s trousers we’re dealing with.

Decided to try something new for the summer, and outfitted my GO PanomaticLunar in grey with a Strapcode Milanese Mesh band. I must say that it got me excited about it all over again… I think this will be my new go-to for a while.

It flares up even in partially lit environments. And, good news… still no moisture broke into the dial.

Making a lot less moves to the collection this year, since I feel like I’m at a sweet spot with the box right now.

- Omega Seamaster AT Atlantic Blue: hypnotizing dial color, great finishes, and a workhorse of a movement. It’s a phenomenal daily, and a great summer watch as well.

- Patek Philippe 5134G Travel Time: a bit of neo-vintage flare. Lesser-known Patek with a phenomenal travel time complication where you can move a skeletonized second hour hand with the side pushers, and hide it behind the main one when not needed (like the PF GMT). Perfect proportions at 37mm. The dial and case are a more sporty dress look that fits multiple environments. Uber versatile, and under the radar as well.

- GO PanomaticLunar: asymmetric dial and lovely finishes. It punches above its weight. At some point, this will be a Lange, but I’m definitely satisfied with the GO for now.

- Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Original: still my favorite chronograph. And it’s not even close…

- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC Reissue: one of the best divers with haute-horlogerie finishes and vintage charm. It wears like a dream.

- JLC Duoface Reverso: a masterpiece… I love the looks and the feel of a Reverso. Nothing like it. And, it’s a great travel companion as well with the second time zone face.

Making a lot less moves to the collection this year, since I feel like I’m at a sweet spot with the box right now.

- Omega Seamaster AT Atlantic Blue: hypnotizing dial color, great finishes, and a workhorse of a movement. It’s a phenomenal daily, and a great summer watch as well.

- Patek Philippe 5134G Travel Time: a bit of neo-vintage flare. Lesser-known Patek with a phenomenal travel time complication where you can move a skeletonized second hour hand with the side pushers, and hide it behind the main one when not needed (like the PF GMT). Perfect proportions at 37mm. The dial and case are a more sporty dress look that fits multiple environments. Uber versatile, and under the radar as well.

- GO PanomaticLunar: asymmetric dial and lovely finishes. It punches above its weight. At some point, this will be a Lange, but I’m definitely satisfied with the GO for now.

- Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Original: still my favorite chronograph. And it’s not even close…

- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC Reissue: one of the best divers with haute-horlogerie finishes and vintage charm. It wears like a dream.

- JLC Duoface Reverso: a masterpiece… I love the looks and the feel of a Reverso. Nothing like it. And, it’s a great travel companion as well with the second time zone face.

I had been searching for a travel watch for a while, and a Patek wasn’t in my consideration set. I looked into a PF Tonda GMT, but was concerned the design would be too bland after a while. I also considered a VC Dual Time, but the proportions were just too large. Finally, I also looked into a JLC Hometime, but the design was lackluster.

Then, I came across the neo-vintage Patek 5134G, and it hit the sweet spot. The same hidden-hand mechanism as the PF Tonda GMT, but with more class and visual presence.

The case was the first thing that drew me in. It’s obviously a Calatrava (see the crown guards), but the added contour from the side pushers bring a bit of a Nautilus-esque vibe to it as well, making it also fit in more casual environments. It’s an interesting hybrid between a dress and a sports watch, which is unique.

The proportions are also compelling. 37mm, but with wider dimensions due to the pushers, making it have more presence on the wrist without making it any less wearable. Also, 9mm thickness, which is phenomenal. It wears phenomenally well.

I also really love the dial. There are 3 main variants for this model family. One with all the Breguet numerals, one with a 3 and a 9 (mine), and the platinum one with no numerals, just markers. I specifically went for the 3-and-9 variant. The white gold case is strikingly bright here, and the added numerals make it more sporty. Also, the second hour hand is skeletonized, which makes it very easy to quickly discern between the two. On the Breguet numerals version, the only differentiation between the hands is that one is darkened, which can make it for less clear legibility in certain environments.

There’s quite a bit of depth on the dial. Outer tracks for the minute markers, a darker shaded circle for the hours, a smooth center, and lowered white subdials: one at 12 for the 24-hour indicator, and one at 6 for the seconds. Highly legible, nicely executed.

The travel complication couldn’t be more straightforward to operate. Just press the pushers to move the local hour hand forward or backward, revealing the skeletonized hand for the reference time, which is also connected to the 24-hour indicator. Exactly what I need!

The manual winding caliber 215 PS is simple, but nicely decorated with anglage, perlage, and Côtes de Genève striping. It certainly earns the nostalgic Geneva seal. I personally really like manual winding movements… it’s a nice morning routine to wind a watch, especially this one. Highly efficient crown, buttery smooth.

In my view, the main downsides here are the lack of a date complication, the low-for-modern-standards water rating at 30m, and the movement size that doesn’t fully fill the display caseback. I can live with all of these, especially for this genre. I travel for work quite often, so I don’t have a need to be at the pool. The movement size doesn’t impact anything dial-side to me on this watch, so it’s neutral. I do wish it had a date wheel, though… it would definitely make it even more complete.

A potential competitor for this watch would be Patek’s 5130 Worldtimers. I’m just not a huge fan of worldtimers, largely because most are wrong more than half the year, making the complication a bit useless. And, aesthetically, they’re busy. I appreciate them, just not for my own box.

I don’t ever buy watches as investments. But, it’s hard to believe you can pick up a neo vintage complicated Patek in white gold that’s a perfect size at the current secondary market prices. It’s not cheap, but it certainly packs loads of value. I don’t think it will ever be the next big thing, but it’s hard to believe it would depreciate much.

I don’t fully understand why collectors seem to consistently under-appreciate the 5134G, and I don’t know whether it will be fully rectified. Regardless, this is a great addition for those seeking an off-the-beaten dual-timer with undeniable pedigree and character.

Looking for a travel watch, and have been considering a VC Dual Time 7900V (3rd Gen). I love everything about this piece, but the proportions give me pause. It’s a bit on the thicker side, and the bracelet articulation seems to flare out. Unfortunately, I don’t live close to ADs, so trying it out in person is less of an option. For those of you who tried it on or own it, and have a 6.5in wrist, what are your honest takes? Does it fit well? Is it comfortable after prolonged usage? Do you find yourself needing to go to the rubber straps instead of the bracelet?

Thank you!!

I’ve been looking for a travel watch to add to the collection, and while doing my research, came across the neo-vintage Patek Philippe 5134G Travel Time. It’s a 37mm with a larger, more sporty horizontal profile due to the side pushers. The side pushers reveal a hidden second hour hand to indicate local time, while the home time hand is connected to the 24-hour subdial. Does anyone have experiences handling or owning any of the 5134G variations? Any pros and cons? The numerals are stunning, and I love the look of the watch. And, the mechanism reminds me of the PF GMT, but with a more striking look.