u/dadbodfat

I doubt it’s within manufacturer warranty, and I know it’s not within the repair warranty. I probably don’t have the repair receipt. Repair was done by an authorized Milwaukee distributer.

This saw was obtained in a large bundle I purchased. It NEVER actually worked. It would just not spin sometimes, but if I manually spun the blade and pressed the trigger it would go (extremely dangerous, I’m aware).

But the tool had no balls. It would fail ripping standard 3/4” plywood. I’d make it a portion of the way through the sheet and it would just stop. Sometimes I could get it to complete the cut if I backed out, let it get up to RPM and then went terribly slow.

It’s been sitting on the shelf for a couple years collecting dust. I use my very old corded ryobi instead, which fills me with white hot rage.

EDIT: found the repair invoice.
23-58-7116 STATOR / Electronics assembly

It was repaired under warranty back in 2023.

I punched my serial number into Milwaukee site and it says “warranty coverage cannot be determined”

I can continue with the repair but looks like I might pay up to $195. Which isn’t worth it to me.

Cycles fine on semi auto. When in super safe position, it will not cycle a second round. It will eject the first empty casing, partially reset the trigger and close on an empty chamber. If I release the trigger it fully resets.

This is with subsonics, adjustable gas block opened all the way (tried closed as well) and have tried 3oz and 4.6 oz buffer.

This has 10” barrel.

I’m beginning to believe I took too much material off the trigger when modifying for super safe.

This is more of a rant but secondarily an ask for advice.

I went fly fishing with my son and it was pretty frustrating. I kept getting tangled, was actually hitting
Myself in the back with the fly, and hitting my
Own line and getting tangled.

I didn’t do much research beforehand because I was going with an experienced fly fisherman, but he wasn’t a great instructor.

I eventually put the fly rod away and fished the rest
If the day with my spin reel. Did catch some
Beauties.

I was using a very small fly and then an indicator a few feet above that.

What resource do you recommend for learning?

Clip that grabs fish came unscrewed inside the scale and had fallen off in my truck.

I caught a lifetime PB catfish in my boat and couldn’t weigh it.

This was about $70! The Berkeley was half the price.

Was traveling about 20mph when I hear the dreaded overheating tone. Looked down at dash and all bars lit up.

It was only 80 degrees outside, I wasn’t ascending an incline and my AC was on low.

I quickly turned my heater on maximum and let off the accelerator.

The air never became warm and engine temp never dropped, within a few minutes time.

Turned the car off.

30 minutes later, After realizing I have no front tow point (what the fuck Ford), I started the car and was able to get home (1.5 miles) and temp got to about 200.

What do you guys think?

I’m considering adding a shim behind the reverse gear nudging it closer to the clutch dog to aid in full engagement. Photo in comments.

This is not what I’d prefer to do. I just can’t think of anything else at this point.

I don’t want to start replacing parts because these gears are not cheap.

I’ve eliminated the shift cable (shifting manually at engine side lever).

Ive taken all the slack I can see out of the linkage from the lever to the bell crank.

I’ve confirmed the bell crank is good with bore scope. No visible play.

I’ve confirmed no play in the shift rod at the coupler (through the two side windows).

I’ve inspected pinion, forward, reverse, clutch dog, and outdrive teeth and splines. They seem fine.

Maybe there’s just enough cumulative wear throughout the system that the distance between reverse gear and clutch dog has increased, and a shim could remedy that?

Could a tired spring, between the balls, in the prop shaft cause slippage? Why would it engage forward but not reverse?

I could try flipping the clutch dog 180 degrees. I don’t believe it is directional. See what that does.

Any ideas?

Is it worth the trouble to take these apart, clean and re-lubricate? Should I just send it into shimano? This reel is probably 20 years old.

They are cheap PYLE speakers that came with the receiver. Does this plan for box and location seem good?

I know very little about speakers.

I know whey sound better when in a wooden box and that has something to do with airspace.

I plan to put them in my bow, up front, which is hollow, and pointed toward the passengers.

I’m thinking on either side, up top, angled slightly down.

They are not high quality speakers. Just came with a “marine stereo kit”

Thanks for your help.

My wife and kid gifted me this knife for Father’s Day. I assume it’s Pakistan SCAMascus. Which is fine. It’s the thought that counts.

However, my wife said it was not cheap. So if her and my son got scammed, I’d like to know so I can return it and give the guy a piece of my mind.

I was thinking a snap toggle, or some other type of bolt.

Also, do I put the sea deck flooring down first, or do I mount the seats and then put the flooring down?

Thank you!

Seems I might be missing a cork pad that or spacer on the front lip (or maybe across the whole sanding surface) just behind the front roller.

It came with a plate and thin shim looking piece fastened with 4 screws.

But the screws protrude too far out and would either tear the belt or cause uneven sanding.

Anyone have advice on how to bring this back to life. Motor kicks ass and it spins the sand belt great.