u/ferdbrown

I recently bought an Android head unit that was advertised as:

Android 16 (other parts of the listing say Android 15)
8-core CPU (7862)
4GB RAM
64GB storage
2000×1200 (“2K”) QLED display

The unit itself works fine for my needs (wireless CarPlay, navigation, music, reverse camera), but I wanted to verify that the hardware matches what was advertised.

I installed both AIDA64 and another app called Device Info. Both report:

RAM: ~4GB
Storage: ~64GB
CPU cores: 4
Screen resolution: 1280×720

The RAM and storage seem to match the listing, but the CPU core count and screen resolution do not.

Before I raise the issue with the seller, I’d like to ask:

What apps do you trust to verify Android head unit specifications?

Are AIDA64 and CPU-Z generally considered reliable for this purpose?

Is there a more authoritative way to check the actual CPU model, number of cores, RAM, storage, and screen resolution?

Have you seen cases where Android head units incorrectly report their hardware specifications to apps like AIDA64 or CPU-Z?

I’m not trying to prove the seller wrong. I’m trying to establish what the actual hardware is and what evidence the community would consider reliable.

Thanks in advance.

I recently bought an Android head unit that was advertised as:

Android 16 (other parts of the listing say Android 15)
8-core CPU (7862)
4GB RAM
64GB storage
2000×1200 (“2K”) QLED display

The unit itself works fine for my needs (wireless CarPlay, navigation, music, reverse camera), but I wanted to verify that the hardware matches what was advertised.

I installed both AIDA64 and another app called Device Info. Both report:

RAM: ~4GB
Storage: ~64GB
CPU cores: 4
Screen resolution: 1280×720

The RAM and storage seem to match the listing, but the CPU core count and screen resolution do not.

Before I raise the issue with the seller, I’d like to ask:

What apps do you trust to verify Android head unit specifications?

Are AIDA64 and CPU-Z generally considered reliable for this purpose?

Is there a more authoritative way to check the actual CPU model, number of cores, RAM, storage, and screen resolution?

Have you seen cases where Android head units incorrectly report their hardware specifications to apps like AIDA64 or CPU-Z?

I’m not trying to prove the seller wrong. I’m trying to establish what the actual hardware is and what evidence the community would consider reliable.

Thanks in advance.

I recently bought an Android head unit that was advertised as:

Android 16 (other parts of the listing say Android 15)
8-core CPU (7862)
4GB RAM
64GB storage
2000×1200 (“2K”) QLED display

The unit itself works fine for my needs (wireless CarPlay, navigation, music, reverse camera), but I wanted to verify that the hardware matches what was advertised.

I installed both AIDA64 and another app called Device Info. Both report:

RAM: ~4GB
Storage: ~64GB
CPU cores: 4
Screen resolution: 1280×720

The RAM and storage seem to match the listing, but the CPU core count and screen resolution do not.

Before I raise the issue with the seller, I’d like to ask:

What apps do you trust to verify Android head unit specifications?

Are AIDA64 and CPU-Z generally considered reliable for this purpose?

Is there a more authoritative way to check the actual CPU model, number of cores, RAM, storage, and screen resolution?

Have you seen cases where Android head units incorrectly report their hardware specifications to apps like AIDA64 or CPU-Z?

I’m not trying to prove the seller wrong. I’m trying to establish what the actual hardware is and what evidence the community would consider reliable.

Thanks in advance.

I have a 2009 Opel Corsa D with two original keys.

Key #1 works perfectly:

• Locks and unlocks remotely
• Starts the car normally

Key #2:

• Starts the car normally
• Can manually unlock the driver's door with the key blade
• Will not lock or unlock the car using the remote buttons

What we've already tried:

• Replaced the battery with a new one
• Verified battery orientation
• Unlocked the car with the key, switched on the ignition, and attempted the re-synchronisation procedure
• Started and ran the engine for about a minute
• Retested the remote afterwards

No change. The remote buttons still do nothing.

Since the car starts normally with this key, I assume the immobiliser transponder is still working, and the issue is limited to the remote locking function.

Has anyone experienced this on a Corsa D? Was it:

• a failed microswitch/button,
• a damaged circuit board,
• a broken battery contact,
• loss of programming,
• or something else?

Any common failure points I should inspect before paying for a replacement key or reprogramming?

Thanks.

Has anyone successfully hardwired TWO dashcams using only one ACC fuse and one Battery fuse?

I’m installing two separate dashcams in my car:
• VIOFO A119 V3 (front)
• Kawa D5 (rear)

Each camera came with its own hardwire kit (with parking mode voltage cutoff).

My original assumption was that I would need:
• 2 × ACC fuse taps
• 2 × Battery (constant power) fuse taps

for a total of 4 fuse taps.

However, I’ve seen some installations where people use a distribution block, WAGO connectors, or another splitter method so that a single ACC source and a single Battery source feed multiple devices.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone here successfully run TWO separate dashcams from one ACC fuse and one Battery fuse? If so, how did you wire it?

2. Did you use a distribution block, fuse block, WAGO connectors, or something else?

3. Any issues with parking mode, voltage cutoff, or battery drain?

4. Would you recommend sharing the circuits, or is it better practice to give each hardwire kit its own dedicated fuse taps?

For context, both cameras are recording dashcams (not a reverse camera setup).

Appreciate any photos or wiring diagrams. I’m trying to do a clean and professional installation before I start cutting into anything.

Thanks!

Has anyone successfully hardwired TWO dashcams using only one ACC fuse and one Battery fuse?

I’m installing two separate dashcams in my car:
• VIOFO A119 V3 (front)
• Kawa D5 (rear)

Each camera came with its own hardwire kit (with parking mode voltage cutoff).

My original assumption was that I would need:
• 2 × ACC fuse taps
• 2 × Battery (constant power) fuse taps

for a total of 4 fuse taps.

However, I’ve seen some installations where people use a distribution block, WAGO connectors, or another splitter method so that a single ACC source and a single Battery source feed multiple devices.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone here successfully run TWO separate dashcams from one ACC fuse and one Battery fuse? If so, how did you wire it?

2. Did you use a distribution block, fuse block, WAGO connectors, or something else?

3. Any issues with parking mode, voltage cutoff, or battery drain?

4. Would you recommend sharing the circuits, or is it better practice to give each hardwire kit its own dedicated fuse taps?

For context, both cameras are recording dashcams (not a reverse camera setup).

Appreciate any photos or wiring diagrams. I’m trying to do a clean and professional installation before I start cutting into anything.

Thanks!

I’m installing two separate dashcams in my car:
• VIOFO A119 V3 (front)
• Kawa D5 (rear)

Each camera came with its own hardwire kit (with parking mode voltage cutoff).

My original assumption was that I would need:
• 2 × ACC fuse taps
• 2 × Battery (constant power) fuse taps

for a total of 4 fuse taps.

However, I’ve seen some installations where people use a distribution block, WAGO connectors, or another splitter method so that a single ACC source and a single Battery source feed multiple devices.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone here successfully run TWO separate dashcams from one ACC fuse and one Battery fuse? If so, how did you wire it?

2. Did you use a distribution block, fuse block, WAGO connectors, or something else?

3. Any issues with parking mode, voltage cutoff, or battery drain?

4. Would you recommend sharing the circuits, or is it better practice to give each hardwire kit its own dedicated fuse taps?

For context, both cameras are recording dashcams (not a reverse camera setup).

Appreciate any photos or wiring diagrams. I’m trying to do a clean and professional installation before I start cutting into anything.

Thanks!

I drive a 2010 Opel Corsa 1.2 with a manual transmission and recently started paying more attention to fuel economy and driving technique.

My daily route includes some fairly steep downhill sections, with road signs showing gradients of up to 20%.

When driving downhill, I’ve always wondered which approach is better:

Staying in gear (usually 3rd gear), fully releasing the clutch, taking my foot off the accelerator, and using engine braking when needed.

Shifting into neutral and coasting downhill.
I’ve read conflicting advice. Some people say neutral saves fuel because the engine is only idling. Others say modern fuel-injected cars can cut fuel almost completely when you’re in gear and off the throttle.

For a modern manual-transmission car, which method actually uses less fuel? Does the answer change on a steep downhill compared to a gentle slope?

Also, if fuel economy is ignored and safety/control is the main priority, would your answer be different? On a 20% downhill, would you prefer staying in gear and using engine braking, or coasting in neutral?

Interested in hearing both the technical explanation and real-world driving experience.