Finally got my 82' atc 110 to start after rebuild. But only starts with choke open and while I give it gas. As soon as I let go of throttle it dies. Doesn't idle on its own. Im brand new to atv so probably overlooking something basic.
Im working on a 110, with a 5pin unit. I see some units like the ones from Rick motorsports for 100+ then a bunch of unbranded for ~15. They are both made in china, so what's the difference?
-Compression 140
-Spark plug grounded shows white spark
-Fuel lines full with fresh gas.
-Timing set
Am i missing something? 1st time rebuilder
Tore down every part and cleaned it up, thinking that would help this thing run but after all that still on the same boat.
1983 atc 110
1st time rebuilder here. 83' atc 110. After getting the top 2 rings into the cylinder the piston wouldnt go in past the first oil ring. I tried squeezing the rings with my fingers and pushing the cylinder in simultaneously but it would budge.
Is it normal for the oil ring to be really difficult to go in?
Does the middle oil ring (wavy one) also get gapped?
Is a ring compression tool necessary?
For context the cylinder is freshly bored to size and rings are new. Piston to wall gap is .002 . The gap on the rings is spec.
Wondering if the extra chain width will have case clearance issues. 1983 atc 110
1983 honda atc 110 4 stroke. While rebuilding top end I found an oversize japan made piston that is compatible with this engine, however the skirt looks very different. Does anyone know how this impacts the engine?
Rebuilding top end on a old 80's 4 stroke 110cc atv. I found a japan made piston that is compatible with this engine, however the skirt looks very different. Does anyone know how this impacts the engine?
Yes i googled. Ai says they fit, but i cant find a definite answer anywhere else. Hoping someone on here has experience with this. Thanks
Obviously dont want to drop 800 on shocks.
After getting my cylinder back from bore, the piston kit i received came with rings gapped at .028 (.70mm). The stock 52 piston gap range is .004 - .010. So .028 seems way over even with the piston being bigger than stock.
Honda atc 110. Stock is 52, got bored to 52.75.
Is there a way to lubricate engine components without splitting the case?
First time "rebuilder" here. Working on a small 1982 110 honda.
Last year I split the case and took everything out to "give it a good clean". After assembly and not being able to fire it up I took it apart again to troubleshoot low compression. I realized I was suppose to use assembly lube. The only thing I lubed up was the transmission gears. My inexperience had me thinking the rest would lubricate when i topped off the engine oil.
I took the cylinder and head off, so I can lube those up, but im trying to figure out a way to do the rest without having to re split the crankcase again.
After doing a half ass valve adjustment I got my compression from 60 to 105. The valves are new. Do they have to be lapped and will that increase my compression? 82' Atc 110
Did red wing change the tags on the 875/10875? This is my 4th pair of mocs and none had this tag. Got them on ebay.
Do I need to unmount the engine and disassemble the transmission again to adjust timing?
I got cylinder bored and decided to take everything apart and inspect while I waited for my parts to get shipped back. After assembly and atc not starting I realized my timing is off by a couple teeth.
Its my first time rebuilding one of these.
Does anyone know someone who makes custom parts for the monkey? Im looking to have a custom rack made and would prefer to go with someone who is familiar/experienced with the monkey layout. If not, ill prolly go to a local shop.