u/mobiledynamics

Been running Eeer's forever except for the sole exception.....for the outdoors....I run Aruba Outdoor AP, as I have both a Omni and directional AP going on there...Omni for general coverege, a direction going back to the poolhouse in which I have another directional receiving it.

I wanted and appreciated simplicity to some degree. I just ripped all the existing Eero's out and popped in some Ubiquiti....just to see data. It's interesting to see data....one that you don't get with Eero. but I never had any real connection, bandwidth issues with my Eero. I have not even ran speed tests internally for like the last 2-3 years.....and before swapping Eerro's, I've easily ran quite a bunch to see how it looks with Eero and Ubiquiti.

Not sure if I'll stick with the Ubiquiti ...but for now...,maybe cause it's something fresh kinda nice seeing data in the formant being presented....and so easy to just have it open as a -tab- in a browser

Strawberry Spring....Only JM showing some sort of street. Leavers are droopy...looking wilted stressed. It's not a issue of under or over watering so just not sure....

It's still spring, but even as such, it's in a area where it's afternoon shade....

Not getting roasted by the sun, yet it's definitely stressed.

WWYD

My 1st JM was not something I read or saw online in a video

I was a the garden center and noticed this tree....made me do a double take, a triple take and I bought it. It was a specimen size Mikawa ....short fat trunk, about 4-5 inches high and cupped shaped branching from there.

Now a few years later, and as crazy as this may sound, with everyone doing the MY craze......this is the only JM in my stash that has this beautiful framework.

I look back now and say I lucked out on the framework.....I have a fewer slightly higher grafted JP, Mayday, etc....but this super short trunk MY is really the gem in my JP collection.

Over the years, at my nursery, I'll check out their MY stock. Some of their 36" box, etc stock have similar framework. A different grower is grafted higher....noticable that I can tell this specimens MY was grown from this grower over another....Hard to capture in person but a super short trunk with cupped framework really is a perfect combo for MY.

Not a container JM gardener but I put some in very large pots by the pool, etc. My mix is primarily fairly coarse bark with #4 perlite. It drains fast....emitters are sized respetively. ~~IF~~ pumice was available locally for a decent price, I would opt for that, but it's too expensive for doing mail-order and given the size of my pots.

Off topic for all you JM container growers. What's in your mix.

Almost.....bit splurged on a CBS. Always seen various ones I would want to plant but AFAIK, it's just a matter of when......needlecast will happen

For those who have CBS in your plantings, have you had one or two die off due to Needlecast

I've been reading old posts....many seem to suggest mouse/keyboard will wake up the Mac.

Sonoma MBP in clamshell....connected via thunderbolt. mouse/keyboard on usb receiver on thunderbolt.

It looks like when I turn off the monitor, is disconnects the display from the MBP. Tapping my wireless M/KB does not wake it up in clamshell mode. I do need to flip the lid open and press the power to wake it open...

Is this normal as all posts seem to infer a keyboard tap:mouse shake should wake it up

The Conifer group is quiet and posting conifer talk here. Anyone growing conifers alongside your JM. For the small conifers acquired....it's a pretty straight forward process on planting.

Do you guys do any sort of root correction, bare root, root pruning if you get a larger one. I know buying larger plants in general has its own sets of problems and I'm guilty of letting my -eyes- do the decision making.....I bought a larger JWP. It's a bit root bound. I just combed out the circulars on the periphery of the outer edges. It's also potted too deep....but I did not want to disturb it much this time of the year, so I just took a chopstick and raked out the top of the existing soil line just to get rid of some soil and a whole bunch of fine roots with it. I suspect I may find a circular or 2 that will need addressing when I do a much harder top-soil excaucation - root prune - root correction

I would not hesitate doing this on a JM and going hard at it dormant season. However, is it just me or how has your luck been with Conifers. I am somewhat hesitant as conifers IME are very picky.....I suppose the correct way it to do a partial- 1/2 root correction on one side of the tree and then do another 1/2 the following year.

But that would mean I would have to hold the tree in a pot for 2 seasons before it goes into the ground.

I'm new to Legion....been scrolling posts. Thinking about warranty or not.

I have a 7Pro RTX5080.....it's use case is really mobile use to use a handheld 3D scanner. It won't see much -usage- aside from maybe 10-15 trips out of a year, with the usage on each trip for maybe 5-8 hrs at most cumulative....

I've been reading older posts and many seem to infer get the warranty....

Is the mainboard reliability that problematic on the Legion lineup ?

What is the proper method of flashing a metal hatch on a flat roof (touchdown). I had my roofer come back to look....there was not flashing on the hatch but a generous amount of roof cement. It has dried out since the and a leak was coming from the hatch

I did ask why it was't flashing applied with a sheet and he said due to contraction/expansion of the metal, it will still move and the sheet will crack just the same and his position was to apply new:additional cement and treat it as a 3-4 maintenance job to retop the cement when it dries out...to the point of water ingress.

Seeking input here, as while the roofer has the *paintbrush* in this application it's his painting ....as the analogy goes, but roof cement is like caulk to me. Inevitably it will dry and pull away, just a matter of when. He did state that flashing will still have the same issue since the *metal hatch* does have quite a bit of movement to it