u/rtuite81

I picked up a 1990 GMC S15 for $1400 yesterday. I needed a "beater with a heater" just to haul lumber and stuff. I had a 1990 Blazer with a V8 swap eons ago and it was a fun truck. This is less fun, but more utilitarian and cheap/easy to work on. I couldn't justify spending $10k on a daily driver truck for 10 to 20 trips to the lumber/hardware store a year.

I knew it had issues, including bad tires. I babied it on the highway going home, probably the first time in my life I ever stayed at exactly the speed limit. I drove a little over an hour to pick it up and one of the tires blew out on the side of the highway when I was only 8 miles from home. I already had an appointment for new tires (a safety thing I never compromise on as an adult LOL). I really thought I could make it home. Sorry I didn't get pictures of the tires (they were comically bad) before it wound up on the tow truck. I also didn't get a picture of the blowout because it was on the side of a highway and I didn't want to die.

I got super lucky with the tow truck too. I looked up tow companies and kind of picked one at random. The guy answered and I was telling him where I was at and what was going on, under a minute into the phone call and he rolled up behind me. The thing that annoyed me the most about the tire blowing out is I didn't want to wait an hour plus for a tow truck driver to show up. It also helped that the tow fee was pretty reasonable too.

I have plans to make this thing minimally safe and usable. There is no cancer rust anywhere except the bed, just surface rust (the Midwest patina). If the bed rusts out completely I'll build a flatbed for it.

(Gemini used to remove person I didn't know from the image)

This is my new friend, I call him Larry.

I was only 15 min from home...

The slave cylinder on my 2011 C30 failed on me and I'm not sure why. It was installed about a year and a half ago and was an OEM part from Volvo. This is the 3rd one since the South Bend clutch was installed, so I'm wondering if OEM just isn't up to the task. The car makes about 400HP on a stage 3 Hilton tune (with upgraded exhaust, injectors, turbo, etc), so I'm wondering if there's a beefier slave cylinder.

The slave cylinder on my 2011 C30 failed on me and I'm not sure why. It was installed about a year and a half ago and was an OEM part from Volvo. This is the 3rd one since the South Bend clutch was installed, so I'm wondering if OEM just isn't up to the task. The car makes about 400HP on a stage 3 Hilton tune (with upgraded exhaust, injectors, turbo, etc), so I'm wondering if there's a beefier slave cylinder.

I don't use my engraver as much as I used to, and I ran a bigger engraving job on it yesterday, roughly 675x400mm. It took most of the day on my cheapo machine and when I checked on it last, it was near the end of the job. I went back about 30 minutes later thinking it would be done, but I found it had automatically started over at the beginning.

I have never seen this before, and not sure what I did to cause this. I even ran a 1/10 scale material test that took about 40 min to complete before starting the full size one and it didn't do that.

Howdy! As the title says, I have a 2011 Volvo C30 that has some intermittent AC issues while driving. It operates normally when it's under ~85F ambient. But once it gets hotter out, it will work for 10 to 20 minutes then start blowing warm. Sometimes if I stop and let it idle, it will start blowing cold again.

I checked my freon charge and it is fine (50 low side, 350 high side at ~90 ambient). I also know the fan is working properly.

I don't think the C30 has an AC compressor control valve, but I wonder about the pressure switches. Would a faulty pressure switch cause this behavior? In my experience, those either work or they don't. I'm happy to hear professional advice before I start shotgunning parts LOL.

2011 Volvo C30 R-Design
T5 engine, Hilton stage 3 tune

We've been streaming our church services since late 2019. We started off simple and have upgraded numerous times. At one point we picked up and elgato 4k capture card that died about 6 months later. Support was completely useless and we just went back to the our USB capture devices. Those things are annoying too because the drivers randomly crap out, usually 5 minutes before a Livestream starts.

At the time they had quit making them, but I see they've launched another one that's more than twice what we paid for our first one. Is That card worth a crap? Or is it just more garbage like the last one was? I hesitate to waste any more money on elgato products.

We have 2 cameras, but always talk about adding at least one more. What is everyone using for HDMI capture these days that is reliable and has at least half decent support? Or am I just way behind the times and there is something completely different that is more reliable that won't require retooling our entire setup?

Thanks to the input I got on my other thread, I was able to make some progress on my '08 Infiniti EX35. I have a friend with a professional shop who recently acquired a Foxwell NT919BT that allowed me to reauthorize the keys and write the updated VIN to the replacement ECU.

While the car is now allowing me to start the engine (which it would not do at all before), but it dies a split second after it catches. I've done some reading and it seems like there may still be an issue with the security, but I'm not entirely sure.

I guess at this point the longer version of the story is necessary, but I'll try to keep it as brief as possible.

• The car has not been running for at least 2 years at this point.
• It started with a failed window regulator, parts were unobtainable for ~8 months.
• After replacing the regulator, I started getting electrical issues
  • Car went into limp mode because the temp sensor was reading over 400 degrees F.
  • Replacing the temp sensor fixed that issue, but I started getting rough running and a cam sensor code
  • Replaced sensor, issues persisted, ran a full trouble code clear on all systems including BCM
  • Car would no longer start and run, would just crank
  • Took the car to the dealer and they diagnosed a failed ECU, according to the tech this is common with these cars if they sit for over a few months.
  • Replaced the ECU with one that was supposed to be pre-encoded with my VIN, which is were I started my other thread at.

I'm not sure if I got a defective refurb ECU or if something is still wrong with the encoding between the ECU and BCM. I've read some conflicting information on whether or not coding the keys and setting the VIN in the ECU using 3rd party scanners like the Foxwell is sufficient or if I definitely need to use the Consult R2R platform. As mentioned before, I do have a J2534 passthrough. I just don't want to spend the $55 on Consult if that's definitely not going to work.

I posted this in the Infiniti sub but didn't get any responses, so I wanted to try my luck here

I have an '08 Infiniti EX35 with ECU issues. Long story short, I was supposed to be getting a used ECU pre-coded with my VIN but it wasn't coded properly and now my immobilizer is pissed off. My local dealership is useless. I told the service tech about my issue and he said "hold please" and transferred me to a car sales person. I guess they're notorious for this because the techs don't like working on anything out of warranty.

I already have a J2534 programmer that I use for tuning my Volvo and it should be compatible with Nissan as well. and I've read up on the process and it seems fairly simple. The only thing I see when looking into the Consult III software is that it does not support immobilizer unlocks. Is there a way to get an immobilizer unlock from anyone except the dealer?

I have an '08 Infiniti EX35 with ECU issues. Long story short, I was supposed to be getting a used ECU pre-coded with my VIN but it wasn't coded properly and now my immobilizer is pissed off. My local dealership is useless. I told the service tech about my issue and he said "hold please" and transferred me to a car sales person. I guess they're notorious for this because the techs don't like working on anything out of warranty.

I already have a J2534 programmer that I use for tuning my Volvo and it should be compatible with Nissan as well. and I've read up on the process and it seems fairly simple. The only thing I see when looking into the Consult III software is that it does not support immobilizer unlocks. Is there a way to get an immobilizer unlock from anyone except the dealer?