My Gen 2 HSD P5i that I bought new in May is squeaking when I pedal. I think it's the belt drive. It sounds very much like squeaky rubber. The belt drive is new bike tech for me, so I'm wondering if that's normal. I can't imagine it would do any good to lubricate it, as that might cause the belt to slip on the teeth instead of gripping them.
I'm trying to get a non-permanent (lines not buried) watering system set up for my raised beds and shrubs so that I can take vacations during the dry summers. While I have a good idea about how I want the hoses laid out, I'm getting quickly overwhelmed by the different types of connectors to join everything together. I'm hoping for some suggestions.
I'm using garden hose (3/4-in) to get water from spigot to about 20-25 feet away, then dropping down to 1/2-in to run the length of the raised beds and then branching 1/4-in tubing off within each bed. I will be adding pressure reducers to the timers and manifolds at the anti-siphon spigot.
What I want is to be able to relatively easily take the system apart in sections if we're expected to have a harsh winter here in the US Pacific NW. Many of the connectors I've seen in my research permanently attach to the hose/tube, requiring the tube/hose to be cut if the system is disassembled. Some styles claim that the tubing can be screwed/unscrewed from the connectors, and that sounds like it would work for me. Are there types/brands of connectors that I should be looking for?
Annoyed that toggling animations OFF in settings doesn't actually turn animations off. Seriously thinking about quitting with a 1600+ streak because of this. I know y'all just acquired a group of animators and some people enjoy that stuff, but some of us don't. Would you rather allow us to turn off animations or lose us low stimulus users entirely?
I'll admit right off the bat that I don't know much about model trains. For some reason I decided to take my brother's old Tyco/AHM train set home with me when we downsized our parents' house several years ago. I had the notion that I'd try to figure out why the locomotives weren't working anymore and then donate or sell the whole set, I guess. I opened up one of the locomotives to look around, and during reassembly, the red wire I have marked came unattached from somewhere. I just don't know where. The left end of the red wire is soldered to the lightbulb. The length of the red wire suggests it might also attach to the right end of the motor, possibly at the clump of solder where the white wire is attached. I don't know enough about locomotive motors and their electrical workings to know if that is correct, though.
My husband and I just got another carpet cleaner since my old Hoover SteamVac bit the dust about 10 years ago. As I have become more aware of microplastics in that decade, I decided to be smarter about using this one and rigged up a filter in the drain of our tub to capture the carpet fibers before they go down the drain. This is just a bedroom's worth of plastic carpet fiber. And that's AFTER vacuuming first. Believe it or not, the carpet is beige...the grayness is the filth. From here, the fibers will either go in an ecobrick or into our vacuum's HEPA bag, where it will hopefully remain contained until it gets to the landfill.
I'm sort of new to hand planes, and I'm trying to clean up an old Stanley 220 that I found at a second-hand tool store. I'm wondering if the threading on the adjustment knob is supposed to look like this. I've sussed that the larger diameter threaded portion is supposed to be for the threaded ramp on the sole and the narrower threading is for this sliding piece that's pictured. But it feels like the narrower threaded portion (or maybe the threading in the slider?) might be stripped. I can't seem to get any purchase when trying to adjust the iron depth on the assembled plane with the threaded knob.
I'm kind of stuck here, literally. I've been watching videos about removing chucks from drills, but I'm not having any luck. I even dribbled some Kroil around the base of the chuck to see if it will loosen it up. Nothing so far. The screw inside the chuck has been removed. I assume that because it's a drill, the threading is left handed and the chuck will loosen counterclockwise, but I don't know for sure. Chances of finding specs like that for these HF drills is probably nil. Suggestions?
My cat just passed a few hours ago, and I'm still trying to process what might have happened. She was old (~19), had a grade 2 heart murmur, and we had been struggling to find food she was willing to eat (and keep down without vomiting). We had a vet appointment scheduled for euthanasia, but that was two days from now. I picked up a bag of Ringers solution from them two days ago for subcu treatment to keep her hydrated and comfortable in the meantime, and she was responding to it well--her desire to eat had returned.
I woke to the sounds of her vomiting early this morning and found her trying to drag her limp (paralyzed?) lower body into the bedroom adjacent to the spare bathroom where her preferred litter box is located. She had not only vomited, but it looked like she was losing control of her bowels. Breathing was rapid and shallow, and she was panting. I assumed she had a stroke.
I tried my best to comfort her while I figuring out how to get her an emergency euthanization. There was a 24-hour emergency vet in town, but I needed to arrange a ride. She ended up passing in the car while my neighbor was driving us to the vet.
I'm wondering if straining in the litter box could have led to the stroke. She was fully mobile when I checked on her last night, and despite putting a second litter box closer to the upstairs area of the house where she has been spending her time, she preferred using the box downstairs on the other side of the house. So she must have been ambulatory enough to make it to her preferred litter box. There was some dense fecal matter in the box, which made me wonder if she had been straining to pass it and if that might have triggered the stroke. I know that can be a thing that happens to humans (famously, Elvis), so I'm wondering if that can happen in cats, too.
My Duolingo widget on my phone was indicating I hadn't done my lesson today, so I clicked it. I normally do a lesson or two first thing in the morning, but sometimes I forget. Oddly enough, there were only 5 energy points remaining. Even if I'd done some lessons in the morning, there ought to be more than 5 points. So I spent some gems on a refill and did a few lessons. Afterward, I checked my streak calendar and saw this. WTF?
Hi all. I've been trying to come up with some shades in the greenhouse to keep the temperature down in the hotter summer months. I had some leftover burlap coffee sacks left over from another project and spent several hours cutting, hemming, and hanging the material in the greenhouse, but it's not as effective as I'd like. Anyone have any suggestions for good shade material made from natural fibers and how to go about effectively using it? I suppose it would be better to put it on the windows outside instead of inside?
Was trying to straighten some thick steel in my refurbished vintage vise today and this happened. I assume this can't be fixed with welding. Makes me sad...this was my first refurbishing project.
ETA: since it seems to be coming up a lot...no, that is not a bike in the vise. There is a bike trailer in a bike repair stand right next to the Vise. I was trying to straighten out the trailer's dropout.
I'm struggling with this and looking for some help. I just got a new HSD P5i, and I want to attach my old BOB Yak trailer to it. For those unfamiliar with BOBs, they require a skewer with special bobbins on the ends, and the trailer's attachment dropouts fit onto those bobbins. With solid axles like mine, BOB Nuts are needed, but they work the same way. Unfortunately, the rear rack of my new bike is positioned in such a way that I can't drop the trailer's attachment dropouts down onto the Nutz.
HSD P5i's rear axle/rack arrangement with BOB Nutz.
I thought I might be able to remove the rack, get the trailer attached, and then put the rack back on, but after looking at the trailer's dropouts, I think the knob of metal on top of the dropouts will prevent the rack from being reattached.
Attachment dropout of BOB Yak trailer.
I have seen folks mention a tail hitch, but after doing some research last night, it appears that tail hitches are not meant for the HSDs.
I'm not opposed to rigging something up, but I'm no engineer--if pulling heavier cargo, I don't want my method of attachment to fail.
Any suggestions welcome.
I'm shopping for pre-built ebikes (not a retrofit), and I'm wondering how much battery placement impacts balance and control. I have concerns about batteries on the down tube (either internal or externally mounted).
I'm a petite female (5'0", 152 cm) and am used to riding around town on a light-weight 26"-wheeled MTB that has been converted to a commuter (smooth tires, fenders, and a rear rack).
I'm leaning toward a small-wheeled cargo-type bike with a mid motor. I found a Tern locally that fits the bill, but I'm worried that I'm irrationally excluding other models because of the down tube batteries.
