Why isn't Charlton a bigger derby?
Or maybe it is and I'm unaware. American Hammer here for 2 decades and I almost forgot where Charlton was until we got back in the championship and I looked it up before this Saturdays match.
Or maybe it is and I'm unaware. American Hammer here for 2 decades and I almost forgot where Charlton was until we got back in the championship and I looked it up before this Saturdays match.
I guess I'm not asking about general news sources that are trustworthy when it comes to transfer rumours. But actual west ham based news sources? Like KUMB, west ham way I'm just naming a few so you get my question.
Just got my CHP in the mail and it lists my height at 5'1" when I am a 6'1" male. Not to mention it's basically cut off or stamped off to the point where my ID or file number is almost cut in half. If you really look you can decipher the numbers but still. Do you think I really should go all the way back downtown to the clerks office again? I'm hoping they won't charge me again to issue a new one
I will admit upfront I don't have much knowledge on prices of older used guns, or revolvers. But I've recently gotten into revolvers and have been looking at a lot of older models of colt and S&W, etc recently. I've noticed Colts usually come with a pretty good price. Thought I found a steal when I saw a 1938 Colt Police Positive for under $500 but now after looking at truegunvalue and elsewhere have seen that that is the common price for a Colt police positive. Can someone explain why that is? Compared to like a Colt Python which always seem over $1000.
What exactly is happening during this portion of a function check? As someone who's new to owning firearms but understands the basic function of most guns, like how a semiautomatic weapon performs compared to a pump action or revolver, etc. I am slightly dumbfounded as to what exactly is happening. To be more precise when handling a semiautomatic weapon be it a striker fired pistol or a hammer fired pistol, a semi automatic center fire rifle. One of the actions performed I have found is pulling a trigger, hearing it click, but then specifically making sure to hold the trigger depressed, sliding the action a time or two and then letting go of the trigger which elicits another click. That's the part I'm confused about.
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Let's use a semi auto handgun for the example. I took it apart cleaned it, whatever. I know after reassembly that racking the slide a few times, pulling the trigger to hear a click, hitting the mag release to see if it drops the mag, etc all make sense. Hell I want my trigger to work when I shoot, I want the slide to be able to rack to chamber a round, I want the mag to be able to be removed and a new one to click in. But I just don't understand the mechanics, specifically of why you would pull the trigger, leave it pulled, rack the slide or action (charging handle if AR) and then release the trigger after where you hear another click. Ive heard it referred to as trigger reset or the trigger resetting but I'm just confused what this means exactly
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Apologies for the convoluted question but I just don't understand what it means. When I pull a trigger in normal circumstances the weapon fires and the force of gas forces the slide or action backwards and then it strips another round from the magazine as it moves forward and said action can occur again. But the trigger doesn't click a second time when I let go. So why does holding back a trigger and racking the action with it held allow the trigger to click again when I let go and how does that matter in terms of the operation of the weapon. Thanks sorry for the rambling question
Recently applied for my CHP so I was looking into carry laws in VA. I've always known you don't need a permit to open carry in VA but never realized the 7 or so localities that have open carry banned, Richmond being one of them. I guess my question is how does that work when I swear there's always 2A protests downtown with people open carrying, again which is legal but technically not in Richmond
My partner has an M18 that we've recently put the Wilson Combat Compact grip onto. My main question is when looking into holster recommendations should we be looking up M18 or at this point just looking at P320 Compact? Since it's basically a p320 compact at this point I don't know of any difference now that it has a compact grip module.
I guess the point of this post is to fully understand why half cock even exists on this model? It has a manual safety so if you go full cock you put the safety on and you're good to go. In what scenario would half cock be used with this model? And on top of that now that modern firearms this once included have a firing pin block what's the purpose of half cock over fully dropping the hammer? It's not going to go off from being dropped even though the "hammer is resting on the firing pin" because isn't the firing pin block there specifically so that doesn't matter? Even if enough force was out onto the fully dropped hammer and it hit the firing pin the firing pin physically cannot hit the primer am I correct?
I'm really just trying to understand the concept and purpose of the half cock on a manual safety gun that has a firing pin block in the first place. Also the classic half cock is there in case you slip when cocking a hammer so it doesn't accidentally fall onto the firing pin argument doesn't apply here am I correct because this isn't a gun where you physically cock the hammer, it only goes back when you rack the slide. Thanks and sorry if this pisses people off it's probably a very asked question but hopefully mine is a bit different in that I'm trying to understand what the concept of half cock would even be on the 75b that has a manual safety and no decocker. I've also only ever accidentally put mine in half cock when attempting to fully drop the hammer at home with snap caps in the gun for fun. Honestly forgot and didn't even realize it existed. I only knew only the incredibly heavy DA trigger pull and the light SA trigger pull, never realized there's an inbetween, still heavy but lighter than the full DA trigger pull until I accidentally dropped it into half cock
Who were the 2 openers for John Mulaney at Altria last night?
Edit: looks like Andrea Jin but I would also love the name of the first opener who came out before they did
I remember reading some legislation about attachments back when all this was still going through the house and senate, unless my mind proves me wrong. Something about attachments being deemed military attachments or LE attachments something like that. Am I correct in seeing that none of that is part of the new legislation taking effect July 1st?
I'm having a slightly troublesome time fully wrapping my head around all of the new laws and want to make sure I'm fully legal when owning and also carrying. I have a CHP in the works and just waiting on it to be received in the mail. When it comes to that I just want to make sure I am fully legal when carrying as opposed to just owning. Also last question is when it comes to grandfathered magazines or firearms, none of my 2 handguns fit the bill of needing the be grandfathered though, how exactly is that going to work? With no state registry how am I to prove I legally bought and owned everything prior to July 1st? I assume they can just look up the sale history and see I was the last person to buy this firearm through an FFL on a date prior to July 1st and that would imply my over 15rd mags came with it? I did buy an extra mag as well for each of my 2 handguns that I guess I could find an email receipt but the initial 3 mags that came upon purchase... I don't know just sort of confused how it's all going to work. But that was me ranting , the post is more about my initial question
I have an M18 and with the new laws coming into okay on July 1st I am not running the chance or risk when carrying of having over 15rd mags. Honestly sort of confirmed with the new laws there's a lot of grey area there, I know legally I can own everything I have bought before July 1st with grandfathering but I don't think I am allowed to carry it, either way not risking it if I have a self defense situation that coming into play.
I don't want 10rd mags I'd like to have 15 rd mags. Without buying a new carry gun am I assuming right that the only way I can do this is by replacing the grip module with a compact grip module? I've never done anything like that so also rechecking that the M18 can take a compact grip module or am I simply stuck with carry grip modules?
edit: I can simply change an m18's grip module to compact right? And any p320 compact grip module will work on my M18? In this scenario I would be able to buy 15rd mags?
Specifically in the scenario where I own shares of SWPPX in looking into the expense ratio and alternatives to owning this over SPY or VOO or IVV for example. When I go to the Charles Schwab page for SWPPX it says the Gross Expense Ratio is 0.02% as well as the Net Expense Ratio. But the Category Average is listed as 0.72%. Does that mean my actual expense ratio is 0.72%?
One of the reasons I think I liked SWPPX over just SPY is the expense ratio is said to be 0.02% vs SPY 0.0945%. But now that I'm looking on the product page on Schwab Im seeing it say 0.02% expense ratio and then 0.72% category average. What does that mean for someone illiterate like me?
I have little to none financial experience in my mid 30s. I've just started a personal IRA from a small inheritance that amounts to $7000. Backstory: jnvested this in SWPPX on Charles Schwab and have had good returns in my little to none knowledge over that past 12mo. My question is - I had always been told just invest in the S&P 500, definitely if you are trying to set it and forget it for the next 35 years. I just didn't realize what I bought when I did buy SWPPX that it is essentially a mutual fund of the S&P 500 and not the actual SPY (etf?).
So at the end of the day I guess my real question is what are the operating expenses of SWPPX over just owning SPY? Being financially illiterate I am just trying to understand what the difference in cost between owning the 2 funds is. At the same time I also wonder what is the point of owning SWPPX is over just owning SPY? I'm still slightly fuzzy on the difference between an etf and a mutual fund but I at least have the grasp now that I own a mutual fund rather than etf. Based on my little knowledge I gather a mutual fund (SWPPX) would generally cost more fees to maintain rather than an etf (SPY)
So my question is two fold: what are the operating costs or expense ratio of owning SWPPX vs SPY.
What is the actual difference between owning SWPPX vs SPY and why would somebody choose to have that mutual fund over just the standard SPY etf?
Surprised I can't find a tab online of this. Seems easy enough (coming from someone who can't do that from ear alone). Sounds like an open tuning and a finger picking pattern. Anyone?
I don't think the word gimmick or scam is the correct term but i don't know what else to call it. Essentially I've only held 1 credit card my entire adult life through USAA. I had a small $500 credit limit for the longest time but also rarely used it. I in recent years asked for a credit increase and it jumped up to over $6000. That aside, I've never had any problems with said credit card. It's straightforward. Like all of us I get credit card offers in the mail all the time. There is one I recently got that is American Express but through my investment brokerage and would allow my cash back rewards to go into my investment account. This is very attractive sounding to me but when I told my mother she said it was a gimmick credit card and will have hidden fees and changes down the road. I understand that concept but don't know exactly what to look for when thinking of hidden fees or "changes" down the road.
So my question is I don't even know if you can call some credit cards scams or a gimmick. How would I know what is a bad credit card and what to look for when applying? What could said credit card company "get" you with other than a high apr after the initial interest free period? Maybe like fees if you don't use it enough? I don't know because again I've only have a single credit card and it's pretty straightforward. If I keep a balance I am charged the interest rate, if I pay it off I do not. Other than that I don't know what else could make someone like my mom say like watch out don't get that card it's a gimmick. How would I go about checking the rules and terms to ensure a fair deal?
I'm obsessed with sitting in my shelter and getting my mental to 100. The 2 songs we play are so effing good I can't get enough. Im pretty decent at guitar but cant for the life of me hear something and make a guitar tab out of it. I can't read music but I can read guitar tabs. The problem is I can't hear something and turn that into a guitar tab which I know some people have the gift of. It sounds like the 2 songs are in an open tuning maybe drop d or open g, I don't know.
I will be eternally grateful if someone can tab out the 2 tunes our character plays with the legendary guitar
For awhile I was going back and forth trading at Gunsmith until I got the level 4 armour plates he sells. Once I got it I assumed that was the highest I could get. Then my first run to apartments I pulled a level 5 armour plate from a special crate which I didn't even know existed. Checked the wiki and Gunsmith trades level 1-4 armour plates but level 5 you've got to find in the wild. I feel like it should be the same with helmets. There should be a tier 3 that you can only find and not trade for
I did not know this. Was holding on to a bottle of water, pea soup and a mess kit for the longest time waiting to get all the items to craft the cooking station (hotplate, battery, battery cables and inverter). You can light a fire at the campfire right outside the Cabin shelter with a match and sit next to it to cook/craft.
My goal is to make it to apartments or terminal and I know some here there's a consensus that once you have a gun some ammo and meds, maybe a suppressor that you are ready to go to apartments where you can actually find some high end loot. I on the other hand want armor, a helmet and a long range scope before making the trek.
I wanted to see if you think this is the strategy I should use. I finally got to day 10 for the gunsmith and know I can get an ACOG off him plus armour and a helmet. However he's stupidly expensive with the 300% tax. So my strategy has been filling up with trash or whatnot in village, going to generalist buying any 7.62, .223 and 9mm plus any sights like EXP, Pro, micro. Then hauling that to the Tent. Stashing it there and then running to gunsmith over and over til I get the ACOG. However it's insane how many sights and far stacks of ammo amount to nothing once I go to buy at his high tax. What do you think? I can't think of any other way