u/theartsygamer89

I currently have an i7-7700K PC that I built way back in 2017. I've been on the Windows 10 ESU program and I know its being extended for another year until October 2027 so I would like to build a new PC by then. I want to build something that not only can run Windows 11, but also has a good chance to run Windows 12 so I don't have to deal with this same situation of being cut off again.

Currently I have an idea for a Intel 250K Plus build that will include a new motherboard, 16GB of RAM and a new cooler for around $700 while I will be reusing my case, NVME SSD, HDD, PSU and GPU from my current build. I only have a budget of around $800.

On the other hand I can wait until next spring to see what Intel could release for their new CPU, but I honestly have no idea how this will be handled because I've never tried to by a CPU at launch before. Will prices be significantly more expensive for the CPU and motherboard? Currently I can get the 250K for around $219 and get a motherboard for it for around $129. CPU cooler for the 250K is around $34.99 for the Thermalright Peerless Assassin and 16 GB of DDR5 RAM is going to be for around $230. If prices will be insane for motherboards and the next Intel CPU that is equivalent to the 250K then I will likely just go for the 250K, but if prices are around the exact same then I might get the newer one.

I don't plan to do any high end gaming for the PC, but will mainly use it to browser and watch videos and some light editing maybe on Affinity or Photoshop.

Whelp, I just figured out why after scanning the QR Code with my iPhone X the popup on Chrome stayed stuck at Connecting when it was working fine last night. Google updated Chrome with Version 155.0.8059.40 and did something with the WebAuthn and that locks out people with older iOS versions so all their passkeys are useless now on the browser. The passkeys do not work anymore. I've tried multiple sites and they all just stay stuck at "Connecting" after you scan the QR Code when last night before the update the passkeys were working fine.

I was able to confirm this by using the Chrome mobile browser on my iPhone X and I was able to log in perfectly fine with the same passkeys. I also tried the Microsoft Edge browser on the same PC that I have Chrome on and it was also able to accept the passkey.

Warning Long Post:

I am now worried about a sale that I made today, luckily before this issue came up I was able to buy a shipping label for the sale and I have the QR code in my email to drop it off at the post office. My worry is will what I did cause my account to be paused and the sale be put on hold or cancelled.

So as seller we all know that ebay can sometimes randomly log you out so you would have to re-sign in. I don't have the Stayed Sign In box checked when I log in so sometimes when I visit other listings it would ask me to to sign back in so when I do that I would have to request a new SMS text verification code. Well I had an item for sale that I kept checking every 30 minutes and that meant sometimes when I check I would be logged out so I had to request a code. I think I did this too many times in 24 hours because I stopped getting SMS text verification code, but instead after entering my password correctly I was sent to a page that said "Let's verify it's you, For security we need to make sure its really you" then it has my email and has a Email Me button to send a verification code to my email instead of text.

That was odd and I thought something changed with my account so when I went into account setting to look at my Security and Sign In details and Personal Info I had to re-sign into those which meant requesting even more codes. I then was told to try toggling off 2 factor and then turning it back on. I did that which meant getting more codes so I was able to get a code sent to my phone to verify my phone number for the 2 factor, but it was different so I know my phone and ebay can communicate. Anyways after verifying my phone and email and the phone is set as the primary one my friend told me to clear your browser cookie and the try to log in.

After doing that I am not seeing the page that said a verification code is being sent to my email. Instead I am not stuck on a blank page that said "Contact Support For further assistance accessing your account, please contact us." I can't request codes anymore! I did contact ebay and spoke to a representative and she hold me she looked at my account and did not see any sort of block, restriction or suspension on it. Everything looks good. She told me to try again on the same browser and I still kept getting the page to Contact Support. She told me to try another browser and I tried Firefox on my PC which has no cookies for ebay and doesn't get used. I was still getting the Contact Support message. She said that I should wait 24 - 72 hours before trying to log in again and that she sent a ticket to IT as well.

Has anyone encountered this before? My current theory is that requesting too many SMS code because ebay staying signed in is glitchy on certain pages caused my SMS phone to be flagged for suspicious activity, so it stopped getting those codes, but my email was set up as a secondary method so I still continued getting codes for that. Then when I stupidly deleted the cookies for ebay it removed my PC as a trusted device and because it was already flagged it stopped sending codes all together not even to my email. Is this likely something that will just fix itself if I don't try to log in anymore for 24 - 48 hours? Will this log in issue or flag affect anything on my account like recent sales?

So I currently have a listing up for a collectible related to Grand Theft Auto. Ever since the release of the Extended Look of the game Grand Theft Auto VI on Netflix last Thursday Aug 27th my views and watchers have skyrocketed to an insane amount. I am also getting people messaging me too. The thing is I currently have the listing set to Buy It Now only with Best Offers off, but I'm considering turning on Best Offers too. If I did turn on Best Offers would that reset the listing meaning how the algorithm of ebay gets reset so the views and watches could fall off a cliff? I don't want the momentum that I have going right now get affected because, but I want to keep all my options open too so letting people send me offers without having to message me would be something I want, but I'm not sure if risking it would be worth it right now.

So I'm in the market for a new iPhone and I am looking at second hand used phones on places like Swappa or Amazon. I'm worried about possibly buying a used iPhone in which the user previously used Hinge or Tinder or one of the other dating apps and was banned from it. Then I log into my clean working account and it gets banned. Is there anyway to avoid this issue other then buying completely brand new? Will factory resetting the iPhone before you use it prevent this issue?

I get a red "We Ran Into A Problem" when trying to sign in. This is at the part where you get the SMS code that you enter.

So I am selling an item on ebay that is worth $1400+ and I have it set to allow international buyers. I am enrolled in the eBay International Shipping Program so I would be shipping the item to the eBay International Shipping Hub in California and they would then ship it the rest of the way to the buyer. So the item for sale is over $750 which means Signature Confirmation is required for Seller Protection, how would that work? Would the Signature Confirmation only apply to the domestic part of the shipping so it would only apply to me shipping it to the eBay International Shipping Hub and someone at the Hub would have to sign for it? Also the same thing for the ShipCover Insurance like would that also only apply to me shipping the item to eBay International Shipping Hub?

Do I basically treat the eBay International Shipping Hub as the actual buyer?

So I have my Legacy Data setting setup so that I would need to be inactive for 18 months before an email is sent out, I have reminders turned on and I have the option to delete my account and data if its inactive turned off.

Today I just received two emails at the exact same time...one was to the account that was being referred to and the second email was to the recovery email that is attached to the account. The email was a Google email stating my account is Inactive and that I need to sign in. The thing is this account is active. It actively signed in constantly on my Chrome browser which I use every day, its actively signed into my phone which I refresh for emails everyday and I also received job alerts from LinkedIn everyday too on this email. This email is also the email I use for my web hosting which requires a yearly renewal in Feb and I renewed it this year in Feb and I have the receipt PDF downloaded to my computer. The only way to do that is to open up the receipt the web hosting company sent you and download the attachment. This confirms that the account has been used and is being used. Does anyone know what happened?

I know everyone said this is a phishing attack but how did the phishing attack know what my recovery email that is attached to this account and also they were able to send the email to both my main account and recovery email account at the exact same time.

I did check the Accounts page for my gmail account that was said to be inactive and did not see anything unusual. There was no notification or warnings, no security warnings or random sign in or change of information on my account. Everything looked good. To make sure I sent an email from the account that is said to be inactive over to the recovery email and then I sent an email from the recovery email address back to the one that was mark inactive and I opened that. I made sure to do all this on the desktop gmail website so there is no way this account is inactive.

I currently have a Local Account on my Windows 10 Home Edition PC. I'm on the Windows 10 ESU program so every 60 days I need to sign into my Microsoft Account from my current Local Account which wasn't a problem before. I usually just go to Settings and then Account and then on the Your Info section I would just click on the blue link that said "Sign in with a Microsoft account instead" and then follow the steps by entering my email and password and then at the end it ask for my Local Account password one last time. Usually if I enter it, it would log me in right after that, but something broke because now after I enter the local account password a new window appears that said "oops something went wrong whatever happened it was probably our fault". I am 100% sure the local account password is correct.

My Microsoft account is not the issue because I can log in perfectly fine on the Outlook website and I can also open up the Microsoft Store App on my PC and sign in perfectly fine. Signing into the Microsoft Store App follows the exact same steps as signing into the Microsoft Account from the Account page except it doesn't ask you for the Local Account password. I think that is where things are bugging out with my PC. Does anyone know how to fix this?

I already tried changing the password on my PC to something very simple that cannot be mistyped like ABCD or 1234 and it still does not work. The password still does work when just signing into my PC normal from the log in screen but it doesn't work when I try to switch to a Microsoft Account.

Edition Windows 10 Home

Version 22H2

Installed on ‎7/‎16/‎2020

OS Build 19045.7663

Device Name ???????

Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-7700K CPU @ 4.20GHz 4.20 GHz

Installed RAM 16.0 GB

Storage 1.82 TB HDD ST2000DM006-2DM164, 954 GB SSD ADATA SX8200PNP

Graphics Card NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti (11 GB)

Device ID ??????????????????????

Product ID ????????????????????????

System Type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

I currently have a Local Account on my Windows 10 Home Edition PC. I'm on the Windows 10 ESU program so every 60 days I need to sign into my Microsoft Account from my current Local Account which wasn't a problem before. I usually just go to Settings and then Account and then on the Your Info section I would just click on the blue link that said "Sign in with a Microsoft account instead" and then follow the steps by entering my email and password and then at the end it ask for my Local Account password one last time. Usually if I enter it, it would log me in right after that, but something broke because now after I enter the local account password a new window appears that said "oops something went wrong whatever happened it was probably our fault". I am 100% sure the local account password is correct.

My Microsoft account is not the issue because I can log in perfectly fine on the Outlook website and I can also open up the Microsoft Store App on my PC and sign in perfectly fine. Signing into the Microsoft Store App follows the exact same steps as signing into the Microsoft Account from the Account page except it doesn't ask you for the Local Account password. I think that is where things are bugging out with my PC. Does anyone know how to fix this?

I already tried changing the password on my PC to something very simple that cannot be mistyped like ABCD or 1234 and it still does not work. The password still does work when just signing into my PC normal from the log in screen but it doesn't work when I try to switch to a Microsoft Account.

I am selling a high value collectible that is worth $1200+. My worry is that with Auto-Accept and Auto-Offers there is no real way for me to vet someone if they have lots of negative reviews or feedback if they accept the Auto-Offer I send or if they send an offer that gets Auto-Accepted. I would be force to ship that item out and risk losing a lot of money. My question is do you guys think I should have these option off and just leave it as a standard Buy It Now with minimum offer?

My current account on Hinge is 3 years old and I would consistently get 1 - 2 matches a month on it. I haven’t gotten 1 match since Jul 7th which was over 1 month ago even though I use Hinge everyday and haven’t made any changes to my profile. I also stopped getting recommendations being shown in the app or the emails. I also live in a big city (Los Angeles County) with millions of people so I doubt I’ve run out. Does the method to test if you’ve been shadowbanned by seeing if you can make a purchase still work in confirming if you’re shadowbanned or not? I can get to the screen that ask you to enter your credit card info when trying to buy boost, roses or HingeX.

I read that some people are seeing price increases on their internet and T.V. plans. Some people are saying they are seeing a $10 increase for internet along with speed increases and a $5 increase for T.V. on certain plans. I currently have Spectrum Internet Advantage which is $50 per month for 100 mbps and I have a promo (not price lock) of $25 off that last until Jan 2027. I also have T.V. Select Signature which is $130 with a promo (not price lock) of $35 off that also last until Jan 2027. Will I be seeing any price increases on my August 15th 2026 statement? My last statement which was July 15th 2026 did not mention anything.

So I decided to have one of my listing available to international buyers by using eBay International Shipping. I had the option to Opt In on the Shipping Preference setting page and I did that. It now said Enrolled. I was wondering is there anyway to see if eBay International Shipping is enabled for a listing? My biggest worry is that somehow eBay International Shipping said its enabled but not for my current listing and I would be stuck with a HUGE international shipping cost bill if someone buys my item. I do see that my item now doesn't just say "Ship to Puerto Rico, United States" anymore, but instead has a huge list of places its ships to internationally, but I don't see anything on the actual listing that said eBay International Shipping enabled.

On the "Revise" page it does say this under International Shipping

Sell globally with eBay International Shipping

Your listing will show up for buyers worldwide, where applicable. Ship to our domestic shipping hub, and we'll handle the rest, including customs and returns—at no extra cost to you.

I have a very high value collectible for a very well known gaming franchise. I currently have it listed for $1350 Buy It Now with Best Offers starting at $1000. So far I've gotten 3 lowball offers...one was $650 another was $800 and another was $100. They were all auto-declined. I was thinking about turning off offer entirely and just leaving it at $1350 Buy It Now. How much would that affect my listing like if someone really wanted this would they just use the Buy It Now?

Some context about this item. There was about only 200 - 1000 of these given out as a reward back in 2008. Its been almost 20 year so finding complete sets is very rare. Partial set which only contain 2 of the 4 parts that would make it a complete set have sold for $1034 and $1474 in July alone. Another complete set like mines with a more pristine looking box sold for $1500 in Jul as well. Currently there is only two sets of these on sale probably in the whole entire world in which the other set being sold on ebay is missing one of the parts that makes it complete. So mines is the only fully complete set available for sale right now.

My listing has been up for 8 days so far and has 82 views and 7 watches and I average maybe 1 - 7 views per day.

I have a high value collectible listed. So far in the month of July there has been 2 incomplete sets of this collectible meaning it was missing some of the parts that would make it a complete set sold for $1043 and $1474. A complete set sold for $1500. I have a complete set that I have listed for $1350 Buy It Now with offers starting at $1000, but I'm getting really lowball and insulting offers of $650 and twice $800. The high value collectible probably only has less then 100 maybe even less then 50 complete sets in the world and I currently have the only complete set that is up for sale probably in the world too. I was thinking of writing something in the description that references those recent sales so that people know what to offer. There is no way in hell I would take anything below $1000.

So I shipped out a package from Los Angeles using Priority Mail that is supposed to go to Newark NJ. The thing is its been stuck at the City of Industry Distribution Center for over 24 hours and its supposed to be delivered tomorrow Jul 23rd which I do not believe will happen if its traveling by ground, it would have to be put on a plane today to make it there on time. It hasn't even left the state yet. This was the last scan:

On the Way

Arrived at USPS Facility

CITY OF INDUSTRY CA DISTRIBUTION CENTER

July 21, 2026 3:04 AM

How easy is it to file a lost package claim with ShipCover if I have to?

I sold my Nintendo Game with its good conditioned retail box. It sold for a good amount because the box was in good condition and I included all the original inserts, bags and the console and controller looked great too. Anyways one of the reasons why it sold for so much is because the box was still in good condition and collector like to have the GameCube box because its so rare to have a good conditioned box nowadays since the console itself is 20 years old. I did everything in my power to protect the box wrapping it inside a foam T.V. screen bag and then wrapping that entire thing in 3 layers of bubble wrap on the sides and the top and then putting that inside a box surrounded by packing paper. I also cut out thick cardboard pieces from calendars, folded them into 90 degree angles and place them on the four corners of the shipping box. Everything feel snug inside. I'm still worried a rogue postal worker will smash the box or something worst happening which is why I bought ShipCover insurance for an additional $5.17. How good and easy is it to deal with ShipCover should the package arrive crumple to the buyer? This is something that is not replaceable in the sense that they stopped making GameCube a while ago so I would have to get some kind of compensation if something happened to it.

So I might have to ship an item that will cost around $310. Its not too big at around 14 x 12 x 10. Anyways I have UPS Stores around me, but they are all driving distance away. There is a local authorize shipped literally a block away from me that I can go to. They have very good ratings on Yelp so I would like to use them to drop of the UPS $310 item. I will be buying ShipCover for it so I was wondering does dropping it off at an authorize UPS shipper rather then an official one like a UPS store void it?

I was literally shocked when after 10 minutes of my listing of some CIB worn low to mid-tier SNES games that are individually sold for like $20 - $30 got immediate offers. I'm wondering if maybe I screwed myself by listing it too low so I had to raise the price of the Buy It Now and minimum offer price.

These were the games in the listing:

Spider-Man X-Men Arcade's Revenge - CIB (worn box)

Primal Rage - CIB (worn box)

T2 The Arcade Game - CIB (worn box)

Jurrassic Park - CIB (worn box)

Taz-Mania - CIB (worn box)

Pitfall The Mayan Adventure - CIB (worn box)

Urban Strike - CIB (worn box)

Top Gear - Very worn and flat box with booklet

X-Men Mutant Apocalypse - Cartridge and Booklet

I had it all listed at a $230 Buy It Now with $180 offer and immediately got 2 separate offers 22 views and 1 watch in about 10 - 20 minutes of listing. So now I raised the price up to $280 and $210 starting offer. The $180 offer did not get canceled after the price increase.