u/4247407

The wide rice noodles stir fried with beef...have a really bad craving right now please help!!! The one exactly in my profile photo haha.

As a shorter climber (I'm 158cm), I’m so tired of the “but all the pros are short” argument. The data from lattice training proves that as a shorter climber you need to be stronger. It also just seemed kind of like common sense to me that taller people can reach through moves when I had to be stronger, more powerful, and more smarter above my movement in general to do the same move. I was listening to a podcast a few weeks ago (I think it was the trainingbeta podcast) that mentioned taller climbers have advantages in every marker except one, core, and another climber goes, "but all the pros are short". I've heard this rebuttal made several times online and in person and it doesn't even seem logical to me! I don't mind climbs that are hard or reachy, they're challenging for me and that's what I love about climbing, and I've spent years training and putting the work to be able to accomplish those reachy moves, but it just feels so dismissive.

I don't think it's a logical counter argument anyway because you're trying to compare the average climber with the pros who represent an extremely elite and therefore a very minor percentage of climbers. Also, the statement "elite climbers being shorter or average height" doesn't take away from the fact that climbing is harder for shorter people, both statements can be true at the same time.

And to be honest I don't really understand why people keep using the "but all the pros are short" argument. If anyone can think of a short once sentence rebuttal I can use that would also be helpful!

Some background context: I’ve been climbing for 4 years now, and I would say I can consistently climb 6C/7A (V5/6) on a variety of styles indoors. I’m also very short and well below the average height of the european country I live (highest average heights in the world). I’ve recently noticed a huge performance gap in my normal gym sessions vs climbing competitions.

For example, I recently did a competition where I could only complete 2 6C’s in 4 hours (pumpfest format) but I noticed there were several other 6Cs and at least one 7A I could have done definitely that was well within my capabilities but I was always stuck on one move. I had at least 5 good attempts (resting in between, practising the beta in my head, watching others) on 5 different 6C climbs, but I just couldn’t finish them off.

If I had to break down the problems there is two components - mindset, and actual performance / the climbing side of it.

I’ll talk about the climbing aspect first: Usually in a gym session, if I am blocked on a move I can rehearse the move in isolation, if a move is higher up and I am scared of falling, I can climb up to it, practice the fall and the move in a controlled manner. In competitons, in a pumpfest format, there is no chance for me to rehearse that move in isolation. As a result I burn a lot of attempts and energy having to try the climb again from the beginning. To add on to this, the move I’m blocked on is usually a very stretched position for me which is normally not an issue if I was just in a gym session, I know I’m physically very strong, and in a normal gym situation I can record myself, check my own positioning and explore options to unlock the best beta for me.

The second is the mental aspect of it, I have done a lot of competitions in the past but just find the pumpfest style extremely overstimulating. I know this is totally normal, but I would like to understand how to better mitigate this. Sometimes I do really enjoy climbing in front of others, but sometimes I do not which has a huge effect on my confidence. For example, there were several people queuing for climbs, however some people would just jump the line, sometimes I would brush a climb only for someone else to just jump in and not even ask or wait for me.

I have tried comp simulations in the past, e.g set a timer for 5 minutes and make as much progress as I can, or limit my attempts for each problem to 3 tries, as well as capacity training (climbing ten of one grade in one hour, boulder pyramid in one hour, and I know I am capable of climbing multiple 6Cs in usually 1.5 hours so I don’t think it’s a capacity issue?

I would like to understand what I’m doing wrong and how to address the issues please… any insights would be helpful 🙏

https://preview.redd.it/tevna279dhoh1.png?width=1054&format=png&auto=webp&s=d53952d2d47a60d5272cf50105c409f9b2001129

I’m trying to stay off crimps because of inflammation, and thought it would be a good time to get better at other holds. If anyone can recommend problems that aren’t crimpy especially on the right hand that would be much appreciated.

Hi everyone, I'm wondering if anyone else who ordered an OV chipkaart via the NS subscription NS Flex Dal Vrij on July 31 still has not received their card yet?

It has been over 7 working days so I contacted NS, they said they are not responsible for the delivery of the card and to contact OV instead. So I contact OV, and they said they couldn't find an order under my name and to contact NS instead and NS needs to send them a new request. OV also told me that there is a delay in the delivery of orders from NS.

They are offering me a temporary solution to send me coupon codes that allow me to travel during off-peak hours but of course this is annoying and doesn't make up for the lost days.

I want to know if this has happened to anyone else, and if anyone was able to get NS to extend the subscription or compensate for the days for when the card hasn't arrived yet?

Hi everyone, I am wondering how much do folks usually charge for dog sitting? I usually do 3-4 hours of home visit, which includes a 1 hour long walk, sometimes even more.

I've been climbing (bouldering+sport) on and off for 4 years now due to various injuries, and I'm wanting to improve my climbing but feel quite lost on where to go next. Specifically, I'm looking at improving movement skills, I previously had a coach already that I have trained with which has increased my strength, but have found that I am now over reliant on strength and feel like I lack understanding in fundamental movement principles on all terrain and all styles (this is all speculation by me, I have been told I have good technique but I'm not convinced, I feel like I am starting to doubt everything). I have watched a lot of youtube tutorials already, and have read the Self Coach Climber, but I just feel so lost. I'm also wondering, would a female or a male coach be better as I am quite petite at 158cm, and am worried that a male coacher wouldn't understand climbing for a smaller size, and my performance fluctuates wildly depending on where I am in my cycle. For more context my max grade is 7a+ on sport and boulder indoors and outdoors, and I've flashed 6C/7A on MB and TB.

I'm visiting the Netherlands for a month from a non eu country, and I wish to buy the NS subscription deal that allows me to travel unlimited off peak hours for 49€, but when I try to buy the subscription I can only pay by iDEAL, but I don't have iDEAL nor do I have a dutch banking account. Any help would be much appreciated!

I'm visiting from the other side of the world and it's my last full day in Munich tomorrow. I've had such a lovely time, but for my last day I want to do one last hike. I'm a solo hiker, I'm willing to do up to 20km and 1000m in elevation gain, I don't want it to be too easy as I like the challenge of a high elevation gain, and would love some beautiful views as I love to do landscape photography. Thanks!

I just moved here and sadly I need new glasses, I’m about -600, just want a rough estimate and recommendation of optometrists, not too fussed about the frame as long as it’s on the lower side.

Hi, I'm visiting Munich for the first time and would love some recommendations on a bouldering/climbing gym that has more modern / comp style boulders at around 6C/7A level. Thank you so much!

I'm completely new to sewing but keen to learn and experiment! Any help would be appreciated, I've looked some up on youtube but they are mostly machine knit or bad quality like 720p and I can't see what they are doing.

Hi all, I have asian eyebrows and hairs that grow down, and I previously had microblading done 2 years ago but the technician did a very bad job and I ended up with a criss cross effect, but now I’m considering power brows. If anyone has any examples of their brows being done with hairs that grow down please share them with me!