u/Anthropocene_Scholar

Kodiak 400 somewhere in northeastern Mexico.

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I just got my hands on a 98 K2500 with the NV4500 trans in it (MW3 rpo code). And I got my hands on it specifically to take the trans out of it, as well as all the parts that may be compatible with my truck (2001 Silverado 2500HD, LQ4 6.0 engine mated to a 4L80e).

Donor truck has a 350 engine.

Those who have done this swap, I'd appreciate any input you may wanna give. I did a thorough search here and in other forums / FB groups and am collecting useful info where I find it.

I understand the clutch pedal assembly from the gmt400 will not work on my gmt800. Neither will the flywheel currently on the NV4500 mated to the 5.7 engine.

But will the master cylinder, clutch line, slave cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate currently on the NV4500 from the gmt400 5.7 donor truck work on my gmt800 6.0 truck?

Because if that's the case, I'd only be needing to source the clutch pedal assembly for a gmt800 (or buy a fabricated steel one for durability) and the pilot bearing and manual flywheel for my 6.0 engine.

Any stuff I'm still missing? Aside from having to modify driveshafts lengths, relocating the trans crossmember forward, and reflashing the PCM.

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Thanks.

Somewhere in northeastern Mexico.

Unknown mileage. Unknown hours. Who cares, the Kodiak 400 does not care, it keeps performing excellently.

Hi folks.

I'm building a 98 K2500 with a NV4500 I recently bought, and I'm in need of sourcing a set of 4.10 gears for the front diff.

Truck has GT5 (4.10 gears) in the back, but the whole front drivetrain was missing (diff, cv axles, and front driveshaft).

I was able to get a front 9.25 diff with CV axles from a junkyard, but it has GT4 (3.73) gears, so I'm in need of swapping those to a set of 4.10s. I snatched it because where I'm at, these 3/4 ton truck front diffs are extremely rare. Most of what you find in junkyards is pertaining 1/2 ton trucks. I simply can't count on finding a 3/4 ton diff with 4.10 gears in it.

What online seller / brand would you recommend for sourcing gears?

Thanks.

My 4l80e on my 01 2500HD 6.0 is probably about to bite the dust.

About a month ago I serviced it, this meaning, I drained the pan and refilled, then drove it a few hundred miles, then drained it again, lowered the pan, let it drain an additional 3 extra quarts, replaced the filter, and refilled to level.

Drained fluid was very dark, but no noticeable chunks of anything metallic was visible in it, just the usual pasty glitter on the pan magnet.

I've owned this truck for 2 years, and previous maintenance on the trans is unknown to me. 260k miles on the truck. I serviced it only because after two tows of around 6 k lbs, fluid looked burnt. Trans was operating perfectly otherwise. I towed with gear selector in "3" and tow/haul mode on.

In fact, I've always driven the truck with the gear selector in "3". I don't EVER do burnouts or that kind of stuff. I use my truck as a daily driver and to haul and tow within its capabilites.

After said servicing, the trans whined and clunked sporadically a bit for around a week, after which it silenced itself. Shifting was perfect.

Then, a few days back, while driving on a long stretch highway, I engaged the "D" position for around 5 minutes, and then put it back to "3". Oh how I regret having done that, because afterwards everything started to go to shit.

The trans started hard clunking and harshly whirring, more frequently as time passes by. Shifting remains perfect, no slippage, but the clunking is getting worse. Now sometimes when putting it on reverse, it makes a very harsh whirring, and I must disengage and reengage the gear selector.

I have a replacement 4l80e in storage. Should I be done with the current trans and assume it needs a complete rebuild? Or could the issue be something minor as only the torque converter? In fact, I need to know if the torque converter is shot or no, don't want to work on putting in the replacement transmission with the same torque converter only for it to turn out to be the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

All right folks.

The 4l80e on my 4x4 01 2500HD 6.0 regrettably is about to hit the dust, and even though I have a spare one stored to replace it with, I've decided to instead put a NV4500 into my truck.

So this post is asking for advice from those who have tackled this themselves, and from all folks knowledgeable on this matter.

I've located a 98 K2500 (with the 5.7 Vortec) I'll be taking everything I need from. I'm assuming almost, if not everything I need, will be what's already on that truck: transmission with its bellhousing and slave cylinder (I understand a 98 NV4500 has the internal slave cylinder), master cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate, flywheel, clutch pedal and bracket, clutch lines, and stick assembly.

Is there anything else that must be sourced apart from the donor truck?

Now for the main questions:

1st. Pilot bearing.

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Will the pilot bearing be pressed into the NV4500 flywheel inner bore? Will it mate without any modification to the LQ4 crankshaft?

2nd. Bellhousing.

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I'm assuming the NV4500 being mated to a v8 gas engine (5.7 Vortec) won't have need of a different bellhousing in order to mate to another v8 gas engine (LQ4 6.0).

3rd. Drive shafts.

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I understand I'll be needing both a longer main driveshaft AND a shorter front driveshaft. I'll be taking exact measurements when I get my hands on the donor truck, but can the driveshafts on the 98 be mated to the axles on my 01 2500HD truck?

Can the rear axle pinion yoke on a gmt800 3/4 ton truck be mated to a drive shaft from a 3/4 gmt400 truck, if lengthwise the drive shaft is correct?

If not, do any of you have the exact length I would need to have my current driveshaft extended to? Can it be kept as a single piece driveshaft, or must I replace it with a two piece driveshaft? If this is the case, must a carrier bearing be implemented? And if so, I suppose I must then also install a carrier bearing mount, am I correct?

4th. Transfer case.

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I've read there is compatibility between transfer cases between those mated to a 4l80e and those mated to a NV4500, as both both have 32 spline input shafts.

I have a 263HD (electronic) transfer case on the 4l80e. Donor truck has a manual shift transfer case (exact model I still don't know), but if it's a nonHD version contrary to my current transfer case, I'd prefer keep using my button shift transfer case, as it's been working flawlessly and has the pump rub issue already dealt with. I'm assuming an electronic transfer case can be mated with no issue to a manual transmission, but maybe I'm wrong?

5th. Starter.

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Does the starter I currently have with the 4l80e, work with the NV4500 or do I need to aquire a new starter, or maybe use the one on the 5.7 Vortec from the donor truck?

Any other advice or headsup I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks!

I need feedback from folks who have run 255/85/16 on their trucks.

I currently have 265/75/16 BFG KM3s. My 2500 HD has 4.10 gears, worked by a LQ4 engine and the 4l80e. Stock height. Kryptonite steering components, Bilstein shocks.

I have absolutely no qualms about my current tire size. I understand such size maintains everything (engine, trans, suspension, steering) at optimal operation. I work hard my truck. It is my daily driver, and use consists of 70 % daily offroad paths (gravel, pothole filled, rural roads) and 30 % mountain roads and highway. I haul with it frequently, and tow with it now and then up to 7500 lbs.

For some time I've been considering moving to a bit bigger tire, mainly, or rather only, for aesthetic reasons, as sometimes when gazing happily at my truck I find the tires to look a bit small on it. I intend to keep the PYO wheels on it, so 285/75/16 is discarded as they go beyond the proper width for 16x6.5 wheels, a situation which may be negligible for daily driving but not for towing along curvy mountain roads.

I came across the option of 255/85/16, which is perfect for the PYO wheel size, and is supposed to deliver much better grip performance offroad, which would benefit my daily driving.

What I'd like to read feedback about is how or if this size alters engine and trans performance both daily, and towing.

Also, does the reduced width in footprint compared to 265/75/16 impact truck steering and stability performance while heavy hauling or towing? Even when not towing, does the truck with the narrow 255s feel as planted on curves at speed as with the wider 265s?

I'd appreciate feedback specially from people who have precisely moved from 265/75/16 to 255/85/16.

Thanks!

Double Dragon II (NES, 1988)

Look at that gorgeous scenery and that immense megacity horizon in the background, saturated in that neon green glow.

Marvelous.

2003 Kodiak 400 4x4

Quad was working these past days with no issue whatsoever, other than having to pull-start it since battery was dead (almost 5 years old and quad not used in over 8 months prior).

Today I put a new battery in, and when connecting the + terminal, sparks erupted on contact and the unmistakable sound of something electrical perishing was heard.

Since there was absolutely no power being delivered to starting controls, I checked all fuses, and the starter relay fuse was shot.

The moment I put a new one in, it burned up instantly as well.

Any advice on what could be the issue? Battery has good voltage (12.5. V)

Thanks.

Hi folks.

I'm looking into buying my first diesel pickup truck, and I've decided to go for a 99 - 03 F250. The reason of course is the 7.3 Powerstroke, due to its simplicity, reliability and longevity, the exact traits I am after. I don't give a damn about HP or high torque relative to today's terms. What I care about is durability and reliability.

Now I'm a Chevy guy, I have both a 97 K1500 with the revered 350 and a 01 2500 HD with the legendary 6.0 Vortec and the 4l80e excellent heavy duty transmission. So I know what an all around stout and dependable truck is. I don't care about the LB7 or LBZ Duramax, as they are not as reliable or durable as the 7.3 Powerstroke.

I'm in need of a diesel truck to basically be able to tow upwards of 10,000 lbs, which is beyond the limit of what my 2500HD is capable of. I know the F250 in the configuration I'm looking at (regular or super cab, and 4x4) has a limit of around 13500 lb, and that's fine with my needs. I'm rather more interested in it being much more at ease towing an 8000 lbs trailer than my 6.0 gas engine is.

But on my research, I found that the only true weak point of the F250 is the 4R100 auto transmission, which I have found is blatantly considered as a weak ass transmission with low longevity when using it consistently for what it is supposed to serve: heavy towing.

Of course I would prefer a ZF6 equipped truck, but those are extremely rare where I'm at.

If anyone can give me their honest, down-to-earth and realistic feeback on this trans, especially comparing it the the revered 4l80e (which was made for the exact same duty and excels at it), I'd appreciate it.

I don't need to read about what improvements you can do to it to try to bulletproof it. I wanna read an honest account on if it is dependable or not, and if owning one implies having to accept doing a trans rebuild every 60 k miles.

Thanks!

263HD electronic transfer case on a 01 2500HD truck. 260k miles. (Unknown maintenance before me being its owner)

When I drained it, I'm pretty sure gear oil is what came out, judging by its density, color and smell.

Sticker clearly states to fill with ATF.

What would ya folks do?

I'm planning on filling with ATF, driving it 30 miles, drain it again and again add ATF.

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4l80e in a 4x4 truck.

Trans pan is obstructed from being pulled off (to replace filter) by the transfer case support cross member.

People on the internet say to just disengage the transfer case from said support, and to LIFT the rear end of transmission 3/4 of an inch in order for the pan to be able to clear the cross member.

I sincerely can't see how lifting the transmission won't put stress on the transmission bellhousing bolts, even break something there.

What's the correct way to do this? I'm thinking rather supporting the transmission on a jack and just removing completely the support cross member.

Thanks for any input on this matter.

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I'm preparing to service my 01 2500HD truck's 4l80e transmission. Truck has over 260k miles, and I have no records of what maintenance was done to it by previous owners (I've owned it for 2 years now).

I'm planning on replacing the trans fluid and filter. Transmission's been and is working perfectly fine, other than it lately reaching higher temps more easily and rapidly than usual. It now operates at 180-210 even without towing or significant payload.

I know a complete fluid removal (around 14 qt) is not recommended, but rather just draining and refilling the pan and repeat this each 5k miles 3 or 4 times with the purpose of eventually achieving having the entire fluid refreshed in a progressive manner, thus avoiding the pitfalls of a sudden complete fluid replacement.

Any advice on this? I'm planning on draining, taking off the pan, inspecting and cleaning, replacing the filter, and then along the next 15k miles, just drain and refill, and replacing again the filter on the 3rd drain and refill.

I'd appreciate as well any advice on if the transfer case / trans support cross member must be removed. It seems it may be possible with a bit of workaround to remove the pan without removing the crossmember, but I've never done this work before so I'd like to avoid any surprises.

Thanks !!!!

Steeltoe version of the Ariat Sierra boots.

I've been using them for around one month now. Good, comfortable, rugged, all-around utility boots. Hoping they last me a long time.

I use them hard but also care for them. I'm using Rayholes Leather Butter to condition them after cleaning. Seems to work great.

Got them at Boot Barn (USA) for $ 200 bucks.

Cheers folks!

I'll soon be planting Pretoria 90 grass (Dichanthium annulatum) seed on 15 acres in my land.

In your experience, which of these two tractor planting tools would be best for this type of seed in order to achieve the best coverage as possible?

Thanks.

Yesterday when doing a weekly cleanup of my Ruger Security 380 I took out for inspection all rounds from the 15 round magazine (Ruger brand), and the uppermost 3 cartridges looked like this.

The casing is bent inwards exactly where the bullet base ends at.

On two of them the bend goes all around, on one it only is at one side of the casing.

When I filled the mag a few months ago, all cartridges were perfectly normal. I always individually inspect them visually when loading the magazine.

I'm at a loss at what could have caused this. I field strip the gun 2 times per month to clean it, but generally don't mess at all with the magazine, but now and then I do empty it to clean it out of any cloth fiber that may have gotten inside it.

Any ideas?

Truck is a 01 2500 HD 6.0.

I've owned this truck for a bit over 2 years now. The trans temp has always rarely climbed up to 200, even on long mountain highway uphill drives while hauling over 2200 lbs on the bed.

But now, for the last couple months, it has started to noticeably operate at higher temperatures, even when unloaded.

This change started after a couple of 3-4 hour long highway drives the past 6 months towing just below 6000 lbs on a 2 axle trailer rated for 6600 lbs. Whole drive was done in tow/haul mode and with the shifter set at 3rd. No A/C on. During those drives, trans temp climbed up to 250 on long, steep inclines, but I was certain I never let it reach over 260 (orange lines on the trans temp gauge). Over long horizontal stretches, temp stayed hovering between 200 and 250.

Now, on those same highway uphill stretches, the trans temp easily reaches 200 even when completely unloaded and not towing, and sometimes it goes to around 230, which concerns me. The trans itself operates perfectly. Smooth shifting, no strange noises. I almost always drive in 3rd gear selected. I use OD only on long straight stretches of high speed highway.

The truck has over 260 k miles on it. I've done all general maintenance to it since I bought it, except a transmission oil and filter replacement (I did check level and color), and I did put in it a new radiator and fresh coolant in it after doing a coolant flush. I daily drive it, in rather harsh conditions, daily 1 hour drives through gravel and fireroads, plus 3-4 hour long highway drives 3 or 4 times per month. I frequently haul stuff, and sporadically tow with it, all within its capabilities. It has 4.10 gears.

So I'm trying to determine what may be causing it to overheat.

I've read about the possibility of trans oil lines and the trans oil cooler itself being partially clogged, so I am planning on doing a trans oil drain and fill, filter replacement, and replacing both lines as well and possibly the cooler itself (with an OEM one, I'm still not convinced about the utility of an upgraded cooler with my towing needs being rather infrequent).

I'd appreciate any advice based on your experience with similar situations, as well as suggestions on what other maintenance to be done that might help.

Thanks folks.

EDIT TO ADD:

The photo I posted is from before they went out, to show exactly which lights I'm referring to.

Those lowbeams were always on (they turned on as soon as I released the parking brake), so I assumed they were the DRLS.

The lamps beside the turn signal lights have NEVER been on on this truck since I own it (2 years now).

01 2500 HD 6.0

A week ago my truck's lowbeam headlights started flickering on and off sporadically, until a few days back they completely shut off. High beams still work fine.

I thought the cheap LEDs had bited the dust, so I bought a pair of high quality Sylvania LED bulbs. No lights.

I inspected underhood fuses. All is ok.

I replaced lowbeam relay with a new one. Still no lights.

I'm suspecting maybe I have a grounding issue somewhere, because exactly a week ago we had numerous intense storms and I drove my truck to the farm through numerous big puddles of muddy water. I always drive slowly through big puddles, but I think it not a coincidence that just after that, this problem arose.

Can anyone give a headsup on what location to check for grounds that may be involved in headlamps issues?

Thanks.