I have two used bikes in my sights, one is a 15k mile very well maintained 2014 675r or for 800 more a 9k mile 2018 765 rs. Which would you buy? I’m leaning towards the 765 but I know I’d be happy with either bike.
Update: finally got the owner of the 765 to call me and we’ve come to terms. I’m meeting tomorrow, I’ll update with a pic when I get back, thank you for the input.
I have a REDTIGER f7np I’ve owned for about 14 months. I have a 2023 GMC Sierra. I powered this through the mirror power adapter kit and cable. Has worked great the past 14 months. Yesterday at lunch when the truck powered it up, it turned off. I tried different cords in different ports of the truck and nothing. I get home and plug it into a power adapter in the wall and it works. So I took that power adapter and plugged it into my trucks 110 outlet and it works. I plugged my camera into my wife’s Yukon usb port and it came on. For some reason MY trucks USB ports won’t turn on this camera anymore. They do still charge my phone so I know they’re working. It’s just really weird that all of a sudden they stopped and that it works everywhere else. The ONLY thing I can imagine is maybe there is an issue with the apple play handshake or whatever and it’s not sending the proper voltage…anyone experienced this?
I’m a grown ass man, and I just spent the last hour and half on this.
He was 16 bucks in the Walmart clearance aisle. Couldn’t resist.
Bought a 2002 Sahara recently that had the factory D44 with 3.73 gears in the rear. It also had the “use limited slip oil” tag on the diff cover. I decided to change the rear oil this weekend and it has an open carrier in it. I was a little bummed to see that, just wondering why it would have had the oil tag on it…?
It doesn’t LOOK as it’s ever been swapped out but then again why would you swap from a posi to an open? A little confused.
Haven’t washed it in a couple years (yes that’s correct)…look at her shine!
A gentleman nearby has what he claims is all original, aside from wear items like tires and brakes and carb rebuilds etc, but the engine, tank, wheels, exhaust etc is original to the bike. It has 16k miles on it and it looks really nice (sorry no pics to share). He says it’s ready to ride, has new tires, and will fire right up and take you where you want to go. It’s the beautiful orange color with the gold and black stripes. He wants 3400 firm, worth it?
PS he said for any less he will just keep it, he’s had it listed for a couple months now for 3600.
Stepped right over this little guy leaving my shop, didn’t see him until I turned around. Second snake I saw today. Saw a rat snake earlier when I was mowing. Guess it’s a snakey day today.
Hobbyist here, I have been sanding this door to prep for paint. It has been repainted once before as it was originally brown then repainted that weird 90’s ford magenta color. Anyway it has a lot of big chips all the way to the metal in the door (and a couple of low spots that need attention). Must have lived its prior life on a gravel road or something.
If the chip was just in the top layer I would think maybe the purple paint didn’t adhere properly but the chips are all the way to the metal. (Some fresher than others)
Do I go to harbor freight and invest in one of those paint strippers and peel it all the way down or can I get away with another sanding and using glazing putty on the chips, then primer?
Snagged me a really nice tilt column. It’s the little things we take for granted ain’t it?
Took advantage of nice weather and got my inner doors painted, now I can get the jambs painted and hang these doors.
Had some people ask for a video, had it out of the shop today so I decided to oblige. I really need to learn how to make proper videos and edit etc….if anyone wants to volunteer hit me up lol.
Looking at purchasing a 68 427 corvette. Seller wants 35,000. It’s not perfect, but as per the seller it’s all original numbers matching. I can’t tell but I’m willing to bet it’s been repainted at some point. It has 42k miles on the odometer. It’s about 3 hours away so I haven’t looked at it in person yet. It’s also in a part of the world where rust shouldn’t be an issue (but still needs to be checked).
I’d like to add I’m no stranger to classic cars, but I am new to C3 corvettes. I am a very capable mechanic and have a shop with everything I need to work on stuff.
This seem like a fair deal?
Thoughts?
Really clean 31k mile blue on blue convertible, automatic for sale near me for 12,500. Worth it?not my first C4 I had a 91 z-R1 a couple years ago. I’ve been wanting a convertible of some type for a parade car and something to just enjoy.
Want to add, I know these cars are not speed demons, I don’t want that, I’ve had plenty of fast cars and I just want a Sunday afternoon car or parade car. I was looking at any nice condition older convertible, corvette, Mercedes, maybe a 70’s land yacht like a lesabre…just whatever comes across that is in great shape that I don’t have to work on all the time.
Edit: Talked to the son yesterday, he sent me a pic of the only blemish in the car, has a chunk of paint missing about an inch x half inch on the hood in front of the passenger headlight. He also said the tires are old not worn but old. He said his parents have had the car for the past 15 years, and it’s been their “scoot around” car. Planning to go see it Saturday morning. Look for leaks, turn every knob and dial, check all the nooks and crannies.
As title states, the roof panel on my 81 F150 had a couple of dings in it but when I got to working on it it’s suuuuper wavy, highs and lows everywhere like someone beat all over the roof over the years.
I’m not skilled enough to sort this out so here’s what I’m considering, use filler on the really bad spots (the noticeable dings) then roll on some filler primer really thick and sand it with a long block and just call it done.
Good news is that it is on a really tall truck so you’re not going to see it unless you’re standing in the bed or looking down from a second story. It don’t need to be perfect but it needs to be better.
I welcome other ideas.
My son is turning 16 in a month and he’s been driving my old Jeep. Decided he can just drive it as his first car. It’s in great shape, runs strong, drives really good straight and true. He said he wanted some louder speakers…but what he needs worse than that is some quieter tires! It currently has 33x12.5x15 cooper sst’s and they look awesome on the Jeep, but they are fairly worn, probably have 10k more life in them. I want to put an all terrain tire on it and maybe even some new wheels. I’ve been toying with the idea of going with a 33x10.5x15 instead of the 12.5. These current tires stick out bad and throw mud on the mirrors and all over the side of the Jeep. Also I thought a smaller footprint would make the Jeep a little more peppy and maybe get a hint better MPG, I welcome any feedback and suggestions.
This Jeep will be used primarily on the highway to school and back…about a 50 mile round trip.
Started the task of deleting the cab lights on my 81 F150. I’m flattening out the lip from the screws with a flap disk then tapping it flat with a ball peen hammer and sinking it just slightly under the surface so the body filler has a good place to bite.
It’s not the “proper” way but I’m really crap with welding thin metal, so I’m just using fiber reinforced filler on the holes. It says on the can good for holes up to 1/2” in diameter…so we gonna test that on the first one and if it holds up I’ll do the rest like that…if not out comes the welder.
I live about 5 hours from NO, don’t really go there much as it’s never really appealed to me. I want to take my son who’s almost 16 to the WWII museum, I know we will both enjoy that. What are a couple of other options for us to do while we’re down there? We both love history but just want to squeeze in another activity or two in our Day and a half trip. I took my kids to the zoo and aquarium several years ago, so something besides that.
Thanks
I nabbed a really nice set of power windows and doors from a bricknose I’m going to put on my original non-power Bullnose. I have the cross dash harness and was wondering if anyone knew what these plugs went to or what they were for? I believe to have my power windows and locks work I only need the blue and black wire ran hot but there’s additional wires I’m not sure what they do, maybe they went to something unrelated?
The small gray one has two round pins in it and terminates at the larger black plug. It will be very close to the drivers kick panel.
The larger black one looks like it will end up somewhere around the drivers side middle of the dash (above the pedals perhaps). The larger black gray and yellow wire terminate with the black and blue wire I will need for the windows and locks to work.
My son is 16 he’s spotted by brothers old ski boat that’s been sitting for several years. I told him to drag it out and clean it up and I’d see if I could get it running again, which I did. When I hooked the water up to it, I saw it leaking under the engine. Got my camera out and saw the block is cracked at the bottom of the block (see pic). I didn’t see any other cracks, the engine was running great. I’d like to make a Hail Mary here and see if I can “fix” it. I thought about removing the water pump and pouring some block filler down that side of the water jacket in hopes it will cure above the crack and seal it off. Since the cooling system on this is not pressurized I think this has a fair shot at working. If it doesn’t then oh well it’s toast anyway. Thoughts? Tips?
Oh yeah it’s a 305 Chevy Mer cruiser.
I’ve got this 81 f150 I’m just now starting body work on. I’ve been planing on painting it red, in fact already painted the firewall and inner fenders, but I kinda want to keep it a satin or matte red, the more I see it the more I like it. Wanted any other thoughts, maybe experiences with matte paint.