u/ChopperCraig

If I put a 3 jaw puller on it it's just crushing the backside of the wheel, or if I put the jaws on further they'll crush the horn contact ring that I'm hoping to fix...

First time attempting semi proper bodywork. Sorry the photos are kinda scrambled.. There's some after, then some during and before..

You can't buy any sheet metal for this car... Dc5 Integra, Yet... But people are asking for what I've done...

So I made inner rockers, a new pinch weld flange for the internal rocker reinforcement, a new jack point, rear floor pan patches, and a small outer rocker patch so far. The floors are a little rough I'll admit.. My bead roller is only an 8" and this was my first real bead rolling.

What do you think? I'm glad the structural part is over.. No more removing shit just to get at the rot... It's all external and cosmetic mostly now. At least for the drivers side... Only like 8 months in.. Trying to practice doing the highest quality I can reasonably do for this car I paid $2600 for nearly a decade ago lol

Doing some minor rust work on my dc5.. Here's a look at my inner rockers so far.. That jack point went from non existent to lifting the rear end off both jack stands.. Even in this state, the dc5 seems very stiff. Anyways I'm starting to approach a point where areas are ready for paint before they get buried in there somewhere.

Weld through primer wherever I'm butt welding or spot welding, butt welding ideally in areas with enough backside access so I can oil spray the bare weld at the very least.

Using acid etching primer on the bare metal, followed by a primer sealer..

And then what? I need grey to match oem, I'm not worried about it actually matching but like I want something good. Ideally looking for something in a spray can, though I do have a capable compressor, though moisture in my airline would be a thing in 90% humidity.. I've got floor pans and rocker panels to do mostly.

Ultimately the internals will be heavily oil sprayed but I still want it all to last. The goal is to not have a messy oil sprayed exterior that's obviously been patched for a car that should never see salt anyways. Just clean paint and factory looking rocker guard.

As I'm getting more panels made for my dc5 restoration, I'm looking for ways to simplify. I can get panels laser cut and precision bent on a brake press. There are limits to what I can do with that, but there's plenty of cars that have replacement sheet metal produced without stamping.

These rockers just have a few details that would be harder to replicate. The embossed squares around the holes on the bottom are a minor concern, technically those could be stamped on a brake press with custom dies, it happens. But then you have to invest the time to develop those dies.. Those details are simple enough to bead roll. The other detail is not something that I could replicate without stamping the whole rocker. Not practical. If that detail isn't needed for clearance of anything, we could have whole ass rocker panels made up. I'll do some double checking but by my eyeballing it seems to be a straight profile rocker panel. Almost too easy...

Also send me pics of your rust. Show me what you need metal for. Might start putting some of these panels on ebay.

Assuming aftermarket conversion truck. Anyone know anything?

I have to post this picture as a separate post because I can't post a photo in a comment in this subreddit.. So this is how yall want it I guess...

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Anyone know a part number or ever found one of these in a parts breakdown? I never assembled an fjr from the crate but when I assembled the tracer 9 gt and super tenere I remember having to glue on the rubber piece for these lower mounts at the very least, makes me wonder if they come with the saddlebags themselves. They're not shown or listed in the saddlebag breakdowns though.

Fixing rockers on my 02 Acura rsx. I've got my inner rocker replacement fabbed, trimmed fitting almost perfect, nearly ready to go, but the pinch weld flange on the internal rocker reinforcement is not looking so hot.. It's there mostly but it ain't the gauge it's supposed to be to say the least. Everything above that bend is good..

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I can have a new strip of metal cut and butt welded along that bend, that is obvious. That's a long weld on a thin strip. Yeesh no thanks, please.

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But because this is internal, what if I had a 96 degree angled piece made to replace that edge on the pinch weld and then have the other face of the bracket spot/plug welded all along the bottom of the reinforcement? I mean I feel like that would be a simpler repair than doing a butt weld that long.... Not to mention the warpage trying to weld a 1.25" x40 something strip of 16ga..

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What do you think?

I mean I obviously we all want quarter panel patches. Me too. If I could figure out how to make those without a stamping press and dies, I would.. Saving that part for last anyways..

But the rocker panel patches for these cars could probably be reproduced reasonably. I used to work at a place that produced several different sheet metal parts for vintage cars.

This is a patch for the front inner rocker panel. That top vertical flange goes along the driver's side floorpan, the horizontal face with the holes is what you see underneath the car with the rubber plugs, the lower vertical flange is the pinch weld where the inner rocker, inner rocker reinforcement, and the outer rocker/body side are spot welded together.

Its not the simplest repair by any means.. But half the battle is just producing the metal to repair with.

Anyways.. I know it's not anything anyone looks forward to doing but for those who have to, what patches would you like to be able to buy?

Inner rockers ✅

Outer rocker patches would be tricky to match properly. The profile changes slightly down the length of the car.. But they're also covered, so who would see if they were replaced with just a flat profile rocker panel? I only had to replace a square of the outer rocker. That was made by hand.

I was always blown away by the volume of restoration sheet metal our shop was producing.. Makes me wonder, how many people would buy it if it was an option.. Keep in mind restoration sheet metal is hardly ever perfect

Not sure on year probably 04-11, unable to find any identification on the frame or around the glovebox, all the usual places..

When it works fine, it's fine, when it acts up, the solenoid is not clicking.. My suspicion is the throttle sensor (mcor). When I jump the 2 wire plug on the mcor while pressing the pedal, it seems to drive every time.. Maybe a coincidence.. It did work fine for a good minute at first. When I backprobed the green wire(switched 48v when pedal pressed) from the mcor, sometimes I would notice a delay in throttle response and I'd see a lower voltage reading before it jumped to 48 and would take off..

Not my first time working on a golf cart.. And like I'm normally alright with electrical but I'll admit I'm not really sure how exactly these things work besides knowing there's a motor that needs a controller and there's a solenoid that seems to not do what I think it would..

Besides checking for bad connections, batteries, and verifying inputs, I'm just winging it.

Solenoid seems to have 48v on both sides of main terminals at all times.. Idk what's up with that. It definitely seems to click on and off..

Any insight is appreciated. Places to probe.. Tests to troubleshoot.. Or an explanation of what is actually going on when I press the pedal. Maybe a good YouTube video that explains it?

Like I'm pretty sure it's the mcor. But I want to verify.