u/CindyStroyer

Awhile back I swapped a working pump into my project as the original was failing, while I was putting it in I realised that it's size was making it impact the bottom of the tank but I wasn't too worried and it worked.

Now I'm getting back into the project again I had a bunch of new parts ordered from IPD, this new pump ended up being quite larger than the one I previously put in and I feel like the size will be too much, will be squishing on the bottom of the tank too much or will that plastic tip at the bottom be enough for sufficient fuel to flow?

While trying to clear the solder from this positive hole on the top what seems like a ring lifted away and also left solder in the hole, idk if it is solder or part of the board.

Been at this single cap for an hour and a half while watching a guide for my specific scenario on loop.

If I have actually messed this up my guess is bodge wire or invert the cap to the bottom of the board and add some solder to the positive top side?

My technique is non existent and my knowledge is very spotty so I certainly need advice and guidance please.

Recently I've been decluttering and cleaning the house as we have too much stuff and we are finally able to display my Dad's Amp, it still works.

While I'm here I'm curious about any neat history or things I should know about it and how high end or special of a piece of hardware this is. I'd love to learn.

I'm doing some tidying and had to reassemble the two smaller units on top, thought it would be nice to show the internet these guys stacked together.

All have their own issues unfortunately.

Big one: Phillips 900 series KT3A-3

Still suffering a brightness/pulsing image issue

Top left: AWA C619

Yellow/greenish hue to image and gets dimmer left to right, knobs and tuner have issues too.

These two smaller units seem to be cut from the same cloth and the AWA seems to be the higher end model of the two

Top right: Thorn 34T2

Possibly lacking enough power delivery to Tube for an image to start but ever so slightly has static otherwise audio and input is working as intended. (Mabye it's lost its vacuum slowly but I hope not)

Side thought: I wonder what's the reason for colour difference of screen top right compared to the other two.

Unfortunately I'd already found more than enough loot thrifting today so I passed on this.

DOT is 1P1B which doesn't seem usual and the websites to tell me only take numbers

My uneducated guess is these look old and or quite dirty

This is an update post

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After allowing the TV to dry out for 3 days I've now plugged the TV in with a working cable and the process has gone as such.

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1. Press power then auto degauss happens and high pitch whine happens then quickly decreases but no image

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2. Switching between channel and inputs is happening as I can hear it changing, I do notice when changing volume that there is a pop noise on each change.

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3. While I was trying to watch the mainboard as the TV was powered on I started hearing an "electrical noise" like clicking which was a little inconsistent coming from the flyback I believe, it got quicker and quicker then I noticed the Filament light up and the screen gave an image as you can see in the video, This took roughly a minute or two.

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4. The grey screen it shows was not what I expected as usually I expect a blue screen. I did see colour on the bottom right so it's outputting colour.

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5. Once I changed it to the channels it quickly power cycled afew times then shut it's self off and seems as though for it to work for a longer time it needs to be powered off for abit as attempting to change to input right after will result in quicker self shut down or no response.

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So my current thought is that the flyback is failing or there may be cracked solder somewhere. Also have considered increasing or decreasing voltage as my assumption is that providing more power will give me time to switch back to the grey screen that it was stable on and allow me to adjust things and see the results but that may be dangerous and cause more issues I'm not entirely sure.

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Would love to have some input and thoughts on what could be the issue here and suggestions for going forward.

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Also noticed on some specific frames of the video there is a large yellowish portion as the input is changed then TV turns it's self off.

It's been rained on so it'll need to be opened up and left to dry out for a couple days and unfortunately scrappers cut the cable but I know how to splice.

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Features 2 SCART in and 1 Audio out, this Trinitron has some killer speakers on it too.

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I really do hope this works as it would suit my game room perfectly and be better than my current Tube

For $4 dollars I thought why not, it seems to work find and no screen issues I can see.

Far as I can tell this is "one of those fancy graphing calculators" so I'd love to be informed on what I've got here and what sort of fun and silly things I can do with it if anything.

I don't own a dedicated calculator so at least when I need it I'll certainly be over prepared

I've been wanting a copy of Twinsanity for years so I'm quite happy to get that.

I recently started watching OG Battlestar Galactica so what do you guys rate that game? Cause it looks and sounds appealing based off the cover.

As for the others it's a mix of stuff I have and stuff I don't like Black, Max Payne, MOH Vanguard, Prince of Persia I have and know about but the others my knowledge isn't much

Tonight I decided to continue preserving my older and more cherished movies but I ran into this for the first time, the dubbing had started fine but once it got about 30 seconds to a minute in on the CIC video splash screen this popped up.

I'm curious if this is some sort of copy protection, The VCR deciding it wasn't fit to record or an error of sorts.

The previous night I had successfully preserved my 1982 Star Wars Video Rental Library copy and my original home release Rocky.

The VCR model is LG RC689D from 2014

It popped and has leaked it's liquid over the mainboard and case and emitted a smell I can describe as foul fish I suppose.

I have novice Soldering skills and I feel confident I can replace this but I need to know what is a suitable replacement and where to get it in Australia.

Edit: capacitor not battery wrong word sorry

For awhile I have had a slight wobble on the upper half of the image and waves of static that will slowly creep in and proceed to get faster and faster, also a noticeable noise. This makes it almost impossible to get through a full movie and of course Dubbing my VHS to DVD.

So I've come to the conclusion that something is loose/workout and lubrication and readjustment (if possible) is what I need to try. I've checked for any play in the spindles and I can notice some in the supply spindle but none in the take up.

In the second image you can see the colour is a yellowish green and based on a quick search White lithium grease is suggested but I'm just looking for some other inputs before I try something.

Ignore my VHS tapes