u/CourierKite

Added a lanyard because I finally moved from an intec hard case to a soft case. Updated Pico firmware for the first time since launch. She feels buttery smooth.

Extremerate shell 🤌🏻

I am going to get a monitor mount for two ips, 1440p panels to stack on top of each other, and a third ultra wide monitor to the left in portrait mode for discord or code.

I eventually want to put the bedding in the white cabinet in storage under my bed and replace it with a proper desk to make my setup into an L-shape and move my pc over to under where the crt is for a total of 4 monitors and allow me to see inside my PC case once again

I have been using a TV cabinet as a standing desk for the past 2 years because of space constraints. I can get rid of this real wood cabinet now without any guilting from my mom, who originally bought this piece of furniture. My girlfriend has a desk that is a lot more functional than this thing, just gathering dust in her storage, so as soon as I can get this out of here I can bring that over and finally use the Antec C8 wood case that has been boxed in my bedroom since January.

It's all coming together...

So when I saw this on FB marketplace, the picture was shifted a bit vertically on the center axis of the screen, and it is only visible in game?

I am gonna attach a few pictures in the comments. Im not certain this is a deflection yoke issue because the right side of the screen seems fine? Is this a potentiometer adjustment or a service menu fix?

Regardless, this rounds out my collection well as I have a 14" VGA pc monitor, this 20" Insignia with component and I have a 27" Sansui that needs some capacitors replaced but otherwise works well.

So I saw a listing for a 20" insignia CRT with Component and S-Video inputs. I have a 14" PC monitor, this 14" sharp and a 27" Sansui that needs a re-cap.

I was looking for a larger screen than what is on my PC with better inputs than the sharp, but small enough that I could move without any assistance and I think I found it in the 20" insignia! There is a small issue with the image being shifted a few degrees to the right, and possibly the whole image is shifted horizontally. Initially, I was told that I could fix this with service menu options, but it's looking like for this specific set, I need to adjust a potentiometer and mess with the deflection yoke.

I understand the basics of CRT safety and have invested in insulated tools as well as high voltage gloves. However, I have both seen and READ conflicting information on the best technique as far as rotating the defletion yoke goes?

Some people will have the set powered on, and with a single gloved hand, slowly twist the deflection yoke until the picture is level, often needing to losen the hose-clamp like bands securing the yoke to the tube.

Other people will discharge the tube by shorting the anode cap and then the hole in the top of the tube, rotate a bit, power on the CRT, and rinse and repeat until the image is perfectly straight.

I understand the concept of what I am doing, I understand that the tube can generate over 20-30kv, which can and will kill you the moment you dont respect it. I am.juzt a bit confused as to why sometimes, people will mess with the yoke while the set is on, and others fully discharge the tube before adjustment. Oftentimes, youtubers will do either, sometimes even on the same set!? Idk if this is the right place to ask, but why sometimes do people adjust the yoke powered on and sometimes discharged? Is it just a preference for speed vs. safety?

So it's hard to get it to translate what I am seeing vs. what my camera sees. But I am trying to find a balance between too dark and too bright. I have been using pure black test patterns and feel like I have it somewhere I am satisfied with but will need to tweak further when it gets dark. ( I had the monitor on my dining room table, so I was letting my kid watch cartoons for a bit between adjustments, will mess with it more later tonight.

Messed a bit with the brightness contrast and temperature settings. So far, I have only done web-surfing or watching videos. Gonna boot up retroarch or Xenia-canary and get it really dialed in. Im currently using a STARTECH DisplayPort->VGA adapter and then have a USB-C->DisplayPort so I can use this with both my 3050 laptop and my desktop with a 5070Ti. Far from ideal,but outside of GPU pass through, this is the best solution I have for getting a CRT to play with modern machines.

100% just the front bezel placed in front of a modern display. I have a feeling like if this was at one time an actual CRT, the tube burned out long ago.

My friends grandma was trying to get rid of some old tv's. This was only ever used for her karaoke machine (: gonna pair up my universal remote to it and check the service menu if I can (: gonna hook my wii up to this on my desk soon. I have a larger set with component for my garage and a crt computer monitor. I think for now I have all my retro-gaming bases covered (:

Cannot wait to play through this gem

Compaq 7550 with VGA. I have a display port> VGA dongle for my PC, I wanna use this for emulators and the like :)

**TEDTalk level yapping below. Skip to TL;DR for questions**

I recently added this guy to the collection because the screens are visible in all lighting conditions

. I actually use/ play my handhelds and I have been nervous about my extremerate AGB001 because i just learned the shells are painted and dont wanna damage the metallic iridescent paint.

I saw this on FB marketplace, and it came with a charger and a game cart with a Pokemon Blue Rom Hack. The seller had beat the game and was confident it worked... upon further testing with my EZ-FLASH ODE l, I realize the right shoulder button is not registering inputs, and I see there are a couple of white spots on the LCD and many scratches on the plastic lens.

So, initially, I just wanted to tear down, clean, and do a shell swap on this guy, but now I may need to break out the soldering iron...

So my question(s) For the trouble it would take to replace the polarizer film and plastic lense, would it be easier/ less stressful to just buy a refurbished AGS001 screen? To that end, how do glass screem lenses impact the level of glare in sunlight or the way the panel looks in other lighting conditions?

I kinda wanted to just get a soft-touch black shell for this thing and use it as my edc. I play my AGB or my DSLite at work and while they're either in a soft case/ zipper bag or a clamshell design that protects the screen respectively, they do take up a lot of pocket real-estate or space in a backpack for something that may not be used daily, and for a max of 15-45 minutes a day. The SP fits into my pockets next to my phone more comfortably than my AGB, DS Lite, and especially the r36s.

With the front-lit screen, while it doesn't look stunning in pitch blackness and very muted in general compared to modern displays, it's truly visible in ALL lighting conditions. My DS Lite isn't awful in sunlight, but you can't really change brightness settings without restarting the console. My AGB001 has an ITA screen, which looks great, but catches glare easily and gets washed out in sunlight easily. My job has me taking shifts in the daylight and moonlight hours, and I dont like driving on roadtrips. The AGS001 is the only screen with which I wouldn't constantly have to screw with settings to get a clear picture...

SO

TL;DR: I want to fix/ repair this SP to use as my EDC pocket console. How stressful is replacing polarizer film/ lens? Would it be simpler to buy a new/refurbished AGS001 screen? How do glass lenses stack up to OEM plastic in different lighting conditions?

So I recently modded out my DS lite with extremerate shell and an AGB001 with an extremerate shell, amplifier and ITA screen.

I originally wanted to just do a shell swap on this and keep the AGS001 screen installed because it has the best battery life and is visible in all lighting conditions. As I mainly use flash-carts, energy efficiency is a top priority.

After booting it up and testing a bit, I see that I need to install new L/R buttons, "L" works, but "R" does not register even if it clicks.

With the screen off, there are a few scratches visible, but when the screen is powered on, there are very clearly some white specks or artifacts on the screen.

So, my question. Should I just get a laminated screen kit for this with a proprietary shell? Or go through the trouble of replacing the lens on 20+ year old LCD?

Im already pretty sure im going to end up collecting at least one or two more GBA SP's. One to keep "stock" and another ITA build or a shell-swapped AGS101.

Im gonna tweak the RGB settings on her GPU and fan to be more yellow/ red than default/ current settings. I kinda of wanna turn the banner at the bottom into a vinyl and wrap the PSU basement and possibly a white checkerboard on the entire back of the case where the mobo standoffs are... but for just adding in a banner and figures, how did she do?

Took me a couple of weeks playing less than an hour at a time except for a single 2 hour road trip, but now I get to start the campaign, and I am excited being one step closer to beating this and moving onto the sequels 🤩

Im at the point where I prefer using my modded gba, DS, or r36s for gaming *substantially* more than my phone. While modern phone games are often more graphically impressive, I just feel like the GBA and DS libraries habe so much more though put into the world's than most android apps. Also, I dont need internet, and the only "updates" are when I add more ROMS to my EZ-FLASH or update firmware.

The GBA is definitely not powerful hardware by today's standards, but the quality of the games developed for it are so well thought out and often have such high replayability that they stand the test of time and are still easy to play as a modern gamer, and compared to most early mobile games the GBA dominates in terms of pure enjoyment.

I also feel like having a dedicated device to play games on is better than using a phone just for battery reasons, but regardless, the Gameboy is timeless.