The size L Scott spark will fit a 40t 3mm offset chainring, so I can avoid buying a gravel bike for the two gravel races a year where I will only get midpack results anyway.
Might have to see if a 42t has clearance.
2010 Legacy GT. OEM+ with no engine mods or tune.
I went for an extended fast drive with a long warmup and cooldown period last weekend. No warning lights came on (thinking temp sensor may be faulty now) my coolant boiled over and made a mess of my engine bay, lost so much that once it cooled properly overnight there was NOTHING left in the overflow tank but thankfully no air was introduced into the system.
Since this happened I am contemplating a performance alloy radiator, so what’s good, what’s not, and what else will make a significant difference to engine bay temp? I’m not building a track car and want to keep it realistic but don’t want to blow it up.
*cooling system is sound and well maintained with OEM parts, not damaged or leaking*
This is my photo I’m uploading, of my car which I own, taken with my phone. (I own the phone too)
What’s the media asset ownership thingy based off or triggered by?
Never seen it before.
I like it a lot. A lot a lot.
Hey all, I have a subie legacy GT that I’m trying to improve brake feel/performance on.
I swapped the OEM pads and rotors to some brembo rotors and performance/ceramic/marketing team BS brake pads which bumped power up but the pedals still a touch duller/slow on return than I would like.
Has anyone tried the stainless HEL brake lines, and if so how’s the manufacturing quality and price to performance ratio?
I can’t be bothered swapping to STI brakes as I’m no Colin MacRae and will only be autocrossing and backroad carving within reason.
Any other tricks that bump pedal feel up?
Thanks.
My friend want to buy this RX8
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/mazda/rx-8/listing/6020364874
I’m the car guy in the friend circle but haven’t really had much experience with these. Other than the usual checks for corrosion, visible leaks and damage/wear items nearing end of life you would look for on any car of any make or age, what should I be wary of? I know to get it compression tested and that they need to have a good maintenance plan to live happily, what strange gremlins should I beware of when test driving and inspecting?
Thanks in advance.
2010 JDM Subaru legacy GT-s, TY756WLAAA six speed split case trans. 165,000KM.
Shifting into first from second while rolling is hard or impossible (I won’t apply unreasonable force and find out) when cold but after ~15min driving time it becomes much easier/smoother. I can’t find any damage, slop or significant wear on the shifter mechanism in the car or where the cables attach to the plates on the gearbox. There’s no grinding or whining, the shift just feels hard and rough or is blocked entirely. Rpm makes no difference, speed makes no difference unless completely stationary is considered a ‘speed’. Is it an internal fault or could I be missing something silly?
Don’t say skill issue, I know I’m a sh!t driver but unless your offering proper advice please save it.
Don’t say check oil, I changed it recently, which made no difference, good or bad. It’s the correct grade, weight, and amount.
Only mod is a Perrin brass shifter bushing, made no difference to said issue.
Thanks.
I’m falling in love with the Koken range, It’s silky smooth to use and the finish is rock solid. The 3/8 swivel head is my go-to and I think it may outlive me.
Playing around.
The car park was full and while cruising around looking for a free spot I found a C-unit.
I am quite confident about where my bumper is but got too close this time. I could slide a sheet of paper through but only just.
I have one 250mm pliers wrench, first and only knipex product I own. It’s great.
I want more but haven’t quite got the budget for massive walls of German tools to sit around and look pretty, so what stuff to you all use/justify on a daily basis?
I mainly do DIY, basic fabrication, bikes, car maintenance and bolt on mods, nothing crazy. Specific model codes please.