u/JorgeIcarus

Recently bought a Fiio R2R Warmer DAC.

Should it be between pre and power amp?

At the moment it is connected via rca to one of the inputs of the preamp. Is its preamp stage (does it have one?) adding up to the separate preamp it's connected to?

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I was wondering if I could play usb/coaxial/optical sources connected directly to the dac if it placed after the preamp.

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Thanks.

Hi guys,

I've almost completed my pedalboard, however I'm now facing a very annoying issue with the high pitch background hiss that comes from my bass (a brand new Yamaha BBP35) and on the "wet" signal. I use high quality Mogami 2524 cable and EBS premium gold flat patch cables.

This is how I route the signal into my recording device (an Apogee Duet 2):

​🎛️​🎛️ The Signal Chain Sequence

​Zvex Woolly Mammoth - Hits this first to keep a pure high-impedance passive pickup load for the fuzz circuit.

​Radial J48 Active DI - XLR out splits clean dry tone directly to the front-of-house desk or studio interface.

​Korg Pitchblack Tuner - Fed via the J48's "THRU" jack. Functions as the master system mute and early low-impedance line buffer.

​Origin Effects Cali76 Bass V2 - Early-chain studio FET compression to stabilize transient dynamics before the trackers.

​Aguilar Octamizer - Sub-wave divider. Tracking is flawless because it's fed by the compressed fundamental of the Cali76.

​Future Impact V4 Synth - Microprocessor synth engine. Placed on the front rail for easy foot access to change presets.

​Aguilar Filter Twin - Dual-envelope filter catching the thick waves of the synth block.

​Aguilar AGRO Overdrive - Low-to-mid gain structural tube overdrive saturation.

​Aguilar Fuzzistor - Vintage 70s silicon fuzz. Cascading the AGRO's mid-hump into this yields a massive rock fundamental.

​Stone Deaf Rise & Shine - High-gain octave/tremolo fuzz. Connected via an under-rail TRS line to a vertical Moog EP-3 Expression Pedal on the far right edge of the board.

​Aguilar Chorusaurus - Analog chorus. Placed post-gain continuum to keep the modulation textures clean and un-muddy.

​Aguilar Grape Phaser - Analog 2-stage phaser sweep adding final movement.

​Aguilar TLC Compressor - End-of-chain transparent safety limiter catching radical volume or resonance spikes from the synth/filters.

​Aguilar Tone Hammer Preamp/DI - Master preamp, master EQ shaping, and balanced wet DI out straight to the stage amp or PA.

​⚡ Power Supply Mapping (Joyo JP-02 Management)

​Because the Joyo supply relies on a shared ground architecture, avoiding noise bleeds meant separating digital clocks and LFO pulses onto isolated lines:

​Port 1 (9V 100mA): Running a 6-node Analog Daisy Chain for the low-current analog group. Total combined draw is only ~36mA (Woolly Mammoth, Octamizer, Filter Twin, AGRO, Fuzzistor, TLC Compressor). Since I'm using an 8-plug cable, 1 goes to the Joyo, 6 to the pedals, leaving exactly 1 unused plug wrapped in electrical tape underneath to prevent frame shorts.

​Port 2 (9V 100mA): Aguilar Chorusaurus (Isolated line required to prevent its internal LFO pulse from ticking through the signal).

​Port 3 (9V 100mA): Aguilar Grape Phaser (Isolated line to eliminate wave-cycle background hiss).

​Port 4 (9V 100mA): Stone Deaf Rise & Shine (Isolated line to quarantine internal micro-controlled optical tremolo switching noise).

​Port 5 (9V 100mA): Korg Pitchblack Tuner (Isolated line to completely block digital LED matrix screen noise).

​Ports 6 + 7 (2x 9V 100mA): Origin Effects Cali76 Bass V2 (Requires a true Parallel Current Doubler Y-Cable to safely merge current lanes into a single 9V 200mA line. Never use a series cable, as 18V will fry the V2 internal charge pump!).

​Port 8 (9V 500mA): Future Impact V4 Synth (Isolated high-current jack to keep its 250mA digital microprocessor from boot-looping).

​Port 10 (18V 100mA): Aguilar Tone Hammer (Native 18V supply line to maximize dual-rail op-amp clean headroom).

​XLR Phantom Power: Radial J48 DI Box (Draws 0mA from the brick; runs exclusively on 48V phantom power back-fed through the desk line).

The noise is obviously more audible when the tones are all open and if I crank the trebles up on the Tone Hammer pre/DI.

Apart from isolating the pedals one by one and see if there's a particular one that is creating more of this noise, is there any other suggestion you have to try and solve the issue?

The only component that is probably not of very good quality is the Joyo JP-02 power supply and the power cables I'm using. I also know that daisy chaining can add noise, but shouldn't the power generated buzz be different from that high pitch hiss?

When I engage the first fuzz (Woolly Mammoth, very first pedal because it doesn't like any buffered signal), the hiss goes away: I suppose that's because the pedal has a treble filter built in.

Does anyone else use the Tone Hammer Pre/DI? Have you noticed increased levels of noise when it's engaged?

P. S.

The Stone Deaf Rise and Shine is currently not in the chain (and in the photo), but I'll eventually add it.

2023 re issue. Sounds amazing. Can't recommend enough if you like the genre. Bought on discogs from a Japanese professional seller.

Hi everyone,

I need an active (since I mostly play passive basses, I'm gonna go active, do you agree?) DI box with a jack thru connection to go to my pedal chain. So basically I'm gonna use it

- at home for recording the clean signal just out of the bass into the recording device while the jack thru signal will be processed in the chain and then back as a balanced signal out of the Aguilar tone hammer pre/DI at the end of the chain.

- live I'd feed the clean signal to the FOH if needed, although I will mostly send either the balanced XLR out of the Aguilar Tone Hammer pedal and/or out of one of the heads I'll be using (Ampeg and Mark bass at the moment).

I want a non colored DI, not a pre/DI: I'd like to capture and record a balanced signal straight out of my bass as purely as possible. I also need it to be phantom powered and hopefully ad quiet as possible with no extra hum in the signal due to the phantom power.

After checking some reviews and the current prices, I came down to these models:

1. Radial J48: https://www.radialeng.com/product/j48

2. Radial Pro48: https://www.radialeng.com/product/pro48

3. Palmer RIVER Haven https://www.palmer-germany.com/en/products/di-boxes/30944/river-havel

4. Palmer RIVER Mosel:https://www.palmer-germany.com/en/products/di-boxes/30946/river-mosel

5. Palmer PAN 02: https://www.palmer-germany.com/en/products/di-boxes/5006/pan-02?c=2117

6. BSS ARR-133: https://bssaudio.com/en/products/ar-133

A couple of questions for you:

- do you agree with an active DI or you'd go passive? Again, I play mostly passive basses

- J48 vs Pro48: as a bass player, do I really need the extra features of the J48?

- any experience with Palmer products? A UK dealer told me today that the RIVER series is the more recent one, while the PAN one is older and apparently will be discontinued. Any main advantage of any of the models I listed over the others?

Many thanks to anyone who'd take the time to reply.

Has anyone bought this? Opinions? How does it compare with the original one?

2025 Limited Edition Reissue.

Incredible. 🎶 🎺

This is what my collection looks like after 2-3 months. Gotta sell some and buy different ones. But I'm 70-80% happy with what I got. Some of these came for free when I purchased a Nakamichi BX-300 deck on eBay.

Ok, I've had a double whisky, but I don't think that's the problem here.

I must be quite daft, regardless of my alcoolemia!

Can pls someone translate this?

It's the third time I've apparently completed a firmware flashing via the dedicated web page (I tried once via the editor, but it gave an error towards the end).

Reboot > plug off and on the power cable ✅

Enter Global Menu > I keep pressed the right switch while powering on or I keep pressed the left switch once the pedal is already on ✅

I can select ini > ALL... But how do I press "enter" and Exit the Global menu???

When I switch the pedal on it does show 4.51 so I think I managed to update, what what about the "initialize / all" command?

So I have purchased my first Nakamichi tape deck, a BX-300E. Very happy with its quality.

To top things up, the seller was kind enough to add these cassettes to the box.

8 original ones, 1 type IV, 2 type III, 10 type II, and 4 type I. All pre recorded.

Super happy!

Tbh, they sound like 💩.

No mid lows, highs are there but sound terrible.

And it doesn't look like a 50mm driver to me.

What do you think?