u/Mindshard

So, I downloaded the demo, trying to decide if I want to buy the game, and something is wrong, it runs incredibly slow.

My system is a 5800X3D, 7800XT, 32GB DDR4 3600, DRAM m.2 Corsair drive. Should be no issue at all.

I have the Corsair 360mm AIO with the display, so I can see GPU/CPU junction/hotspot, which is awesome for tuning games. My GPU's hotspot sits no higher than 48c, barely above idle, while having no issues for any other game.

I went into Windows 11's display settings to make sure high performance was set, rather than "let Windows decide" or "low". I checked all the settings. I have no onboard GPU for it to default to.

I let it sit for 10 minutes to compile shaders, although the CPU temperatures were way too low for that to be the issue. I dropped graphics settings. I set it to 1080p, I turned on upscaling and frame generation. Let the game automatically set graphics settings rather than manual. Nothing seems to work.

Exited the game and made no changes and fired up a couple other games to check, and temps were in the mid 70c, just as expected, amazing performance.

This is the only game that's having any issues, and it makes it literally unplayable. Hoping there's a solution, because I've been on a horror kick lately, and was really hoping to get the demo working to give it a shot.

I know that aside from modifying a TM mag, WE is basically the best you can get, I just can't remember which model is the current ideal one.

I believe it's this one, but I saw someone claiming it didn't fit into the CTM Ruger grip as the floorplate was too big, which doesn't sound right to me.

Curious if anyone has experience with them.

And before anyone mentions it, I know both TTI and WE make excellent 50rd mags, I actually have the TTI. I just much prefer the look of the 24rd with an add-on bumper on the bottom, kind of like a Capa mag.

Just curious if anyone has the FUKU-2 upper with the compensator and tracer/suppressor adapter. I'm considering the general (non-cutout) version, but considering different lengths, and whether the compensator essentially functions as a barrel extension to use longer inner barrels or not.

So, my OEM bar deformed at the back from use, and I'm stuck with just semi auto because of it, and I'm trying to decide which bar to get. The little nub near the rear of the bar that changes semi vs full auto seems to be shaped differently on them.

I'm leaning towards the CTM just because the lower and bolt are CTM, and during my extensive upgrades, I found many brands don't always play well together.

CTM seems like the least chance to cause problems, Nexxspeed seems like the highest quality, but the Jefe's V2 is too new to have a lot of info out about it. It's also lowest on my list, simply because they say the CTM lower may require some filing to make it work.

Anyhow, would love some opinions, especially from anyone who got the CTM trigger bar!

So, I was all stoked for alpha Pokemon, like having a huge charizard, venusaur, and tyranitar, but it seems like some, like gyarados who can't hit things close to it, are just a liability.

Outside of maybe garchomp for earthquake, are there any worth using for player battles, or so they just end up as liabilities, since your opponent can hit them easier?

I've been waiting for a computer part, so I haven't been able to play much, but on the 17th, while an MO that listed Marfark automaton kills was still active, I did a quick lv1 mission an hour before midnight, Pacific time there.

Was that all I needed to do? I'm a total completionist, and this couldn't have come at a worse time for me. Can't find a ton of info online, so I'd love if anyone could confirm or deny and I'd know.

I've seen multiple people with this in their metric list, but I don't have it as an option. How do you make it available to show?

I just had the front left CV axle replaced. Back in April I went to a mechanic because a hard left turn, taking off from a stop, would often produce a few clacks. Told them I thought it was the CV axle.

Could never replicate it to show a mechanic.

In the last few weeks it got worse and more consistent, not even just when turning hard.

Bring it in, they hear it right away and finally believe me.

Here's the issue. That was probably 10,000km between then and a mechanic finally believing me.

I got the car back tonight, and it feels almost like that wheel is dragging a little, possibly pulling very slightly to the right, and has a lot of vibration in the accelerator pedal around 110kph.

So here's the real question, did something else like a bearing go to shit because I had to drive it since neither shop would listen to me until it was bad, is it a bad axle? GSP or whatever Chinese garbage is all they could get to put in it, or did the bearing get fucked during the replacement?

They didn't do an alignment with it, and answers online seem all over the place if it's needed, and only took them maybe 40 minutes to do the work, which seemed fast to me.

I don't hear any audible grinding, and I have steel wheels with no wheel covers, and while both wheels are reasonably warm (and rotors are scorching), neither wheel is too hot to leave your hand on after highway driving, and neither rotor feels hotter than the other.

I'll have to go back in the morning, but I'm just trying to get some ideas first. I'm dreading it, because there was a previous situation they looked at the car 3 times and couldn't find the issue, if you include the one with a thick stick stuck in the control arms making a loud squeaking that they found, but didn't seem to believe was making noise.

I know this is a stupid nit picky thing, but does everyone's SIM tray sit just very slightly further in than flush?

And on a related note, I completely forgot to turn it off with everything I've been doing, and removed (removed only) the tray with my SIM for my secondary number (eSIM is my primary). Is that a big deal, or is it completely fine that I removed it before turning it off?

Have trouble wanting to use a pact without the Wyld variant for double the points?

I just look at them and see a tree with everything fully filled in versus picking and choosing what to take, and while I get abilities make a big difference, even just the stat difference alone makes it feel not so great.

And for anyone who isn't aware, if you have the Wyld and normal version of a pact, the points apply to both if you level both, so you can unlock the entire tree.

My BK is 1409 now, and against people with the same (give or take a thousand) CR, and often less resonance (I'm sitting on 1,100), I get instantly deleted, and while I can kill people, it's more of a lucky CC that lets me get multiple skills off.

I haven't awakened my gear, but I can't possibly be facing entire BGs of people where everyone else is, even when they have 10K less CR and literally under 200 resonance.

Even in PvE, I seem to struggle to maintain 200K to 300K DPS. My familiar has the gold affliction mod which seems to say it cuts all damage that isn't continuous damage in half, but even swapping it for a different familiar, there doesn't seem to be any change.

I just don't get what I'm doing wrong. I have lower level BG alts that absolutely melt people and can tank entire groups, and this character was a blast until I hit 1K CR or so, but now it feels like I've completely screwed something up and I just don't get what.