u/No-Show467

I got my main account permanently banned but I created a new one and it lets me play for some reason. I haven't played since the end of BO6, but I wasn't very good then either. I have never won a solo rebirth game on my own, and I don't know what to work on and how to work on it. I am on KBM with 400 DPI and a 13 sens. I tried controller but KBM feels much more natural, and I don’t know if its worth learning controller.

https://youtu.be/_1b61j9TWhU

I have this DIY setup from this video but the box is flush to the build plate. There is a large area cut out of the bottom of the box for the heat to enter the box, but do I need to poke some holes around the bottom edges for cool air intake to replace the hot air? This video mentions that the imperfections in the box will allow intake, but there are no visible holes in my box.

As the title says, I can't find a solution to the stringing on my prints, even after doing calibration tests. The flow rate is good, temperature is tested, though it seems a little low, and the retraction tests don't help at all. I live in Utah, and the filament is also made in Utah, so I don't think wet filament is the culprit, but it's possible if it's the last thing to try. Is there anything else to fix stringing on my prints?

Bambu A1 Mini

Forgely Performance PLA

As the title says, there is a layer of Z banding where the internal bridge of this benchy starts, as well as some general layer inconsistencies all around. What could cause this?

As the title says, I have a fair amount of stringing on every print with a new brand of filament, no matter what I am printing. The new PLA also works best at 190 from my testing, which is low, but it prints amazing other than the stringing. I have ran 2 temp tower tests in the past week for various issues, and the stringing is the same on every level. I also ran a retraction test, but there was almost no stringing, so little that I couldn't even read the results. Is there something in my settings that is messed up or is it something else?

Bambu A1 Mini, Orcaslicer

I just printed this temp tower for a new brand of filament, but the best looking section is 190 and that seems really low. Even their website says to print it at 215, and when I tried a few prints, there was a lot of stringing, despite having calibrated my retraction settings for this specific filament. From the back of the tower 190 is also the winner here, but is this normal for PLA?

Bambu A1 Mini

I have an A1 Mini with a cool plate supertack, and I am trying to print a bunch of the same little figurine. Only a few hours into the print, I noticed the bottom parts lifting from the bed. I have the bed set to 60, I am using a brim, and I cleaned the bed right before this print. When I printed a single figurine by itself, it had no issues whatsoever and turned out great. Now with multiple of them, almost every single one has warping in the same spot. The build plate is over a year old, but I don't know if that's long enough to affect anything. Any ideas why this is happening?

I feel like 18 hours is a very long time for something so small, and I would love suggestions on how to make the times shorter without pieces of the print warping or snapping.

How do you read the YOLO test? All of the pieces have very visible lines on top, and the ones that seem to be getting closer (the very highest ones) have the ring connecting the inside and outside visible and the rest of the piece is clearly overrdtruded.. The edges are also very rough on all of the pieces. Is there another calibration or setting that I haven't found that would help with this, or am I just interpreting the test wrong?

Is this happening to anyone else? My phone died and suddenly the widgets are pushed to the side. A35

Parts of these prints bulge out ever so slightly, but it is still noticeable. It is not at the same height, I tried greasing the Z lead screw and tightening the X axis belt, but I get the same results. It is not in the same spot between the 2 prints in the picture, but if I, for example, printed another Benchy, it would be in the same spot around the cabin. I also have some slight Z-banding right below it, so maybe that's part of it? I found that the bulges were also shown in the slicer preview, in line with the seams. What setting could cause this?

Bambu Lab A1 Mini

Orcaslicer

Bambu PLA basic, black

215, 65 degrees

150mm/s print speed

0.15mm retraction

Parts of these prints bulge out ever so slightly, but it is still noticeable. It is not at the same height, I tried greasing the Z lead screw and tightening the X axis belt, but I get the same results. It is not in the same spot between the 2 prints in the picture, but if I, for example, printed another Benchy, it would be in the same spot around the cabin. I also have some slight Z-banding right below it, so maybe that's part of it?

Bambu Lab A1 Mini

Orcaslicer

Bambu PLA basic, black

215, 65 degrees

150mm/s print speed

0.15mm retraction

I used all of the Orcaslicer calibrations (excluding Cornering and Input Shaping). The results on some tests were hard to read so it might not be calibrated fully, but any feedback on this Benchy and any further calibrations I could do would be appreciated. Printed on A1 Mini.