u/Odd-Professional-779

I picked up a used Taylormade Hi Toe 3 56 degree wedge fitted with a MCC +4 Align grip the other day on a whim at my local golf shop. I gamed it yesterday and I did not make a single bad chip with it over my entire round. It has me wondering now if the Hi Toe is exactly what I’ve been needing in my bag, or if the Align grip is where the magic is.

Early in the year, I had decided to trade in my well loved Titleist SM5s for Cleveland CBX4s in an effort to gain some more forgiveness, I wasn’t a horribly bad chipper with the SM5s, but I could have been a bit better. I demoed the CBX4 before buying, and on a simulator mat they seemed like what I was looking for. On the course though I’ve been less than happy. The Taylormade Hi Toe 3 wedge by contrast, I feel a higher level of confidence and control. I just don’t know if it’s wedge itself and how it balances, of if having the Align grip to set a consistent neutral position before adjusting grip to open or close the face is making that difference.

Could it also maybe be the difference in sole grind between the different wedges? I have to look, I think my CBX4s were all S or M grind, not sure what the Hi Toe is…

The delivery driver was literally standing in front of me at my house. Never expected that they would just say “I’m sorry, I’m not allowed to deliver this package to you,” and then just leave with it.

Customer service said it was a problem within the app system the drivers use, and that the driver is effectively off the road pending the app coming back online. Just seems so crazy to me that an app error like this can halt operations with no contingency to handle when the app goes down.

Not sure if this is the best place to ask this, but I can’t think of anywhere else. Actually, this is going to round out to two questions I think:

To begin, I bought a heavily modded 6309-7290 off eBay. I bought it knowing it was modded, I liked the way it looked a lot, and still do. I wish I dug more before buying however, I found out after making the purchase that the watch was sold in like March by a different seller, then resold to me in April very quickly after. I know this because the serial numbers were a match in both listings. I surmise that seller number 2 either dropped the watch or it was damaged in shipping between either sale, it came to me snapped around a watch pillow in small cardboard box with no other padding, whatsoever some other could be true, but in either case, the watch does not run correctly. If I reset it, it would run fine for a little bit, but suddenly, and I assume it has to do with a certain position of my wrist, it would gain a bunch of time fast, like suddenly it’s running 20 to 30 minutes fast over the course of 4 hours or so.

I did the sensible thing here and took it to a local watch dealer to ask for help servicing it as I don’t have the experience or tools to work on it myself. They initially wanted to send to Seiko, I asked that they not do that being a modded watch, I figured they wouldn’t touch it. They told they have a local watch repair guy who they use and he could look at it instead and I agreed. The watch was picked up at the beginning of May by the repair guy, and I’ve heard nothing at all since. I stopped in once, they said they haven’t heard from him with a diagnosis yet. It’s now been about a month and almost a half without any word.

So I’m wondering two things:

1. How much longer should I wait before asking for my watch back? I feel like it’s been too long already for a diagnosis, or am I just not patient enough and these things take a really long time?
2. If or when I get it back, is there a resource as to whom might be a better resource to send it to for diagnosis and repair?

Thank you.

The TV is less than 6 months old, and has been good so far for daily TV watching and frequent movies. Tonight I grabbed a new movie release off Amazon Prime and upon starting it we found the color is all messed up. The movie is in UHD with HDR10+ color. Everything is showing up way over saturated, like reds that wash completely bright red, and shades of blue that do as well, something that hasn’t happened before with any other film I’ve watched. Loading the movie on my iPhone 17 Pro Max, it looks totally normal. I assume this is an HDR issue. What can I do to get it looking right?

This question comes from being asked if the older Integra DTR-5.1 receiver I have listed for sale on FB marketplace could be configured in such a way that a Bose 901 Series IV active equalizer could be inserted into the system for use with a vintage set of Bose 901 speakers. Being the curious type, I spent a little time looking at the instruction manual for the active equalizer and the options for chaining it into a receiver in an effort to help the individual out. This left me with more questions than answers:

In my mind, the only way this would work with a modern receiver such as the one I have for sale would be to insert the equalizer between the preamplifier and amplifier stages of the receiver, which is described in the manual as an option, but something this receiver does not support. I have others that do though, for example an NAD 7150 which I can pull a set of jumpers and insert whatever I want into the system. The Integra does not have this. That being the case, the other option is to use the tape in and out as described in the manual, something that the Integra receiver does have, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how this would actually work with any receiver really let alone this one. That’s where my question lies, how could this possibly work? To me, since the equalizer supports chaining in a tape deck as well, that’s the only way to feed audio through it and out. Idk.

Anybody mess with this stuff back in the day or more recently? Purely from a curiosity standpoint, I now kinda want to know how it’s meant to work. Thanks!

Bought my 2024 Tiguan S 4Motion brand new in 2024, and it’s been a good reliable vehicle since. This morning however I had an experience this morning that hasn’t occurred before and it kinda freaked me out: While backing out of a parking space in a lot, there was suddenly a loud groan/grinding sound and the car slammed to a stop. The dash indicated that the parking brake had been engaged and was warning me something about taking over steering immediately, or something, it happened so fast that I didn’t get a chance to read the whole message in the moment, and the car would not move. I put it in park and then back in drive, nothing, the car would not move. Looking down at the parking brake button, it was not illuminated, I pressed it, engaged the parking brake and then released it, and finally I could move again. The messages on the dash went away, and the only thing left was icon that appeared to indicate that something with the exterior sensors and an hour glass, suggesting it was having a sensor issue.

There was nobody near me when I pulled out, no other cars or people walking, so if this was a protective thing to prevent me from hitting something it was a false trigger. It’s one thing to happen in a parking lot, I fear this happening again while I’m on the road.

Is this a normal protective function, or something I should consult with the dealer about?

Currently setup consists of an older Integra DTR-50.4 and a pair of Definitive BP-2004TL towers, 2 channel only for music playback, and I’m feeding the internal subs without a separate LFE input, just the speaker line in. They are in a small room where I cannot fully take advantage of the bi-polar reflectivity by placing them in the corners of the room the way things lay out, so I’m considering swapping them for a set of PSB Image 5Ts that have come up for sale locally, with a more conventional forward-firing design. Wondering if this is a smart decision or not? The Definitive cabinets sound ok, however I see advantages in the Image 5Ts in that I can bi-amp them and maybe control the sound a little better that way.

Thoughts?

With rising gas prices, I was finally convinced to sign up for the Smart Rewards program. I did everything I was told to do, setup the app, linked a bank account, etc. and it doesn’t honor the “smart rewards member” pricing advertised on the pump signs. The app is a scam and a pain in the ass. What’s wrong with just asking for a phone number at the pump like other gas stations do, and just honor the advertised discount without jumping through apparently undisclosed hoops? It’s bullshit.

To add to it, the amount of extra time waiting in line inside because the your employees don’t know how to help people claim rewards points and such on products is also bullshit. Do better, once upon a time you were my favorite place to go for gas and quick items, quickly you’ve become my least favorite, and I live across the street from one of your locations.